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Swiss torch with standard head


#1

Hello,

Does anyone have experience using this particular torch and tips:
http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/rio500601

for brazing heavier pieces, such as reattaching a grape cluster to a
compote: http://www.ganoksin.com/ftp/0475.jpg

Does the torch put out enough BTUs?

Many thanks,
Jeffrey Herman
http://www.hermansilver.com


#2
Does anyone have experience using this particular torch and tips:
http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/rio500601 

This looks like a Gloor torch to me, probably a branded model. I
have found Gloor to be extremely helpful, and would ask them if it is
their=torch, and how much heat is possible with which tip. If it is
a Gloor, just btw, then the in Rio’s catalog is wrong:
Gloor torches can be used with acetylene, but require just a
different tip. Gloor offers almost all tip sizes for both propane and
acetylene.


#3

Jeffrey,

I bought a swiss torch with both the micro (hypo needles) and
standard (hoke style) tips a while ago when my old U.S. made Hoke
finally died, and I couldn’t find a usable chinese made new one.
Besides, being a tool junkie, I was seduced by the good looks of the
Swiss torch.

Frankly, I was a bit disappointed. Using the city gas and oxygen
supply our building has (where I work, not my home shop, where I use
propane), my old Hoke with a larger tip could easily melt small
platinum ingots by fusing bits together in a depression on a wesgo
type soldering pad. To be blunt, the swiss torch simply won’t do
this. Not even close. Even with it’s largest tip, melting more than a
small bit of platinum seems beyond it’s ability. Not sure why this
should be the case. Same gas supply and pressures, essentially the
same tip sizes. But the old Hoke simply put out more heat, presumably
from higher gas flow rates.

The Swiss torch is a fine and precise jewelers torch for typical
benchwork jewelry needs. But I would not recommend it for any sort of
larger silversmithing such as your illustrated repair.

I note that Otto Frei also sells what looks like a similar torch
only called the German Torch. Apparently, at least reading their
description, it’s capable of more heat, but I’m only going on what
the web site says.

Personally, I’d recommend a Meco Midget. Cheaper, a wider range of
tip sizes and types, and it’s a kick ass torch when you need to do
some serious heating, as well as being capable of fine precision work
when you need that, and use a suitable smaller tip…

I got through grad school including a fair amount of somewhat larger
silver construction pieces, easily on the scale of your illustrated
piece, using a Meco midget. Seldom needed anything more except for
very large work or annealing larger pieces where a soft air/gas torch
was available. And in my home shop now, I use the meco the most. I’ve
also got a larger casting/melting torch and a little torch, but the
meco is my mainstay for most work. One of these days I’ll probably
take the time to swap out the swiss torch at work for another
meco…

hope that helps.
Peter Rowe


#4

Hello all,

Thank you for your recommendations. What I should have mentioned, as
I did in previous posts, is that I want to stay away from
oxy-acetylene because I don’t like brazing with shaded glasses. I had
a Smith oxy-acetylene torch years ago and sold it for this reason. I
currently use natural gas an compressed air.

Maybe I’m looking for a torch that simply doesn’t exist.

Jeff Herman
http://www.hermansilver.com


#5
Does anyone have experience using this particular torch and tips:
http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/rio500601 

Best torch I ever owned, Jeffrey. Peter wrote today about lesser heat
than the Mecco, which I’d have to agree with, pound for pound. I like
their versatility, myself, and the heat pretty well fits right in the
slot of my day-to-day work. I have the same as Peter - the micro
handle and the Hoke-style. I would rather not tackle your compote
with either, but I imagine the Hoke could do the job, in a pinch.
Thing is, I also have the bigger, casting tip, which would work like
gang-busters on that. except we have natural gas, and the pressure
won’t drive it so it sits in a drawer… I could get a booster
but I don’t want to. I just pull out the oxy-acetyline, which will
fry anything :slight_smile:

So, as with all things, the right torch for the job. For 80 % of my
workthe Swiss torch is perfect. For the other 20% I use something
else. I would think that if you’re using propane or acetyline, then
the bigger casting and rosebud tips would do it all. Always
trade-offs, eh?


#6

Jeffrey,

I’m a little late on replying to this post of yours. Yes, I have a
Swiss torch, with all the different head and tip configurations. In
terms of heat, with the different tips available, you can solder the
smallest chain or melt platinum, which I do with this torch. Mine
uses propane and compressed oxygen.

The Swiss Torch has an available “platinum tip”- a kind of rosebud
configuration, with a long extension, which you can attach to the
torch body. I routinely cast with this tip, as well as melt platinum
into ingots for custom wire stock. Plenty of heat for absolutely any
need, and a good working distance from the heat.

The smallest rotating head that the Swiss Torch comes with, has an
assortment of quick-change needle tips, which will get you down to
any type of micro-repair. However the handle of the torch body is
fairly large, so it is a bit strange to hold the large handle and use
such small tips.

The torch is extremely well made, and the knurled knobs are smooth
to operate, easy to work. With all the combinations of tips
available, it really is the most versatile torch you can have. Not
the cheapest set-up, when you purchase all the tip combinations
available, but it really will do about anything you could want with a
dual-fuel torch.

P.S. Hey, that was a great interview with you online last week!!

Jay Whaley