Super Glue Warning Poison

Hi Kenton,

This isn't a challenge but do you have a link for that info? 

Most of the I gave was from printed material. I would
suggest that you Google cyannoacrylate fuming or superglue fuming.

Mark

Hi to All,

I’m compelled to flap my lip a little on this thread. Super Glue was
indeed developed my Eastman Chemical, I got some first samples in
l961 when it was simply known as Eastman # 310. I used it to seal
perforated corneal ulcers by gluing a contact lens over the cornea.
They usually stayed on about 8-10 days giving healing a chance to
bridge the gap.

As a matter of technique: many people don’t know that the
cyanoacrilate adhesives “dry” by polymerization which is accelerated
by heat and pressure. If you are able to put pressure on a crack you
are gluing you will have almost instant bonding. Just try to figure
out where to press to CLOSE the crack, then apply the glue, cover
with a bit of saran wrap and squeeze the crack closed. Then you can
peel off the saran and apply a bit more glue for reinforcement-but
you’ll have to wait a few minutes for the reinforcement glue to
polymerize.

On the question of poison: Essentially everything can be fatal,
toxic or poisonous in a large enough quantity, it’s not the chemical
it’s the dosage. We can be sure that Aunt Murgatroid didn’t murder
Uncle Chauncy by super gluing the filters on his cigarettes!

On the subject of frequent finger cracking: Those of you who have
this aggravating problem may very well have a dietary deficiency of
omega-3 essential fatty acids. You are welcome to contact me off line
if you’d like to some advice on supplementation.

On the subject of etymology: Cyan is from the Greek, meaning blue.

All the best,
Dr. Mac

hello Orchid

once again I find myself compelled to add to this —thread rather
than taking something, eating more Omega3 fatty acid rich foods,
there are these little inexpensive things called finger cots…they
come in leather at about 1. 29 a pop or rubber (not very
comfortable, but do the trick) or alligator tape, gauzitape or sports
tape- 3M makes it as do a number of other companies, wrap it and go-
it lasts as long as you want it too. If you are grinding silver or
gold, throw the tape in the reclamation bin as the particles that
will stick to it are worth the time to toss it into the bin at the
end of the amount of time you allow to collect your scrap before
sending it to the refiner.

another product that is out there is called Zim’s crack creme-it’s a
spray (poor marketing labelling!)- it is as good as anything I make
myself with beeswax, borax, isinglass, and a diluent (to keep the wax
soft and emulsified) a penetrant (to make it sink in rapidly without
leaving greasy feeling digits, or residues ) and usually an essential
oil like bay, or spearmint to aid the efficacy of the compound…It’s
definitely cheaper to buy the Zim’s products than making it myself,
and if you don’t mind the ecological implications of the packaging of
the products- quit handy! so, even when I was in practice I rarely
recommended vitamins - unless someone was pregnant or recovering from
a serious illness like hepatitis or the like as most vitamins,
particularly over the counter synthetic ones are just excreted
through the urine or stored in the liver.

so foods should always be your first choice for nutrition. and
though I am wholly not recommending any religion, belief system, or
anything to do with any perceived god or goddess- the Hare Krsna’s
publish a little book, available free if you write to their Los
Angeles secretary called “Higher taste”, which there is a link to the
Internet also containing most of the fantastic recipes -not all of
them ayurvedic / Indian, but are all vegetarian and not one is bad
(unless allergic to spinach like me!)-so for a primer on human
nutrition I recommend the first chapter or so that discusses why
eating no meats (including eggs & seafood) and other meat by
-products (but not excluding dairy) is appropriate for humans diets
and how to get all one needs from an ayurvedic based vegetarian diet
that is well rounded and divers in the elements included…So back to
jewelry making- there are a multitude of ways to prevent cracks in
skin and close them once they occur…I think no one here will
disagree with that. While cleaning the studio at the end of your
work period it is equally important to take the extra tree minutes
required to scrub your hands with a natural bristle brush (nylon
ones actually leave microscopic scrathes), the apply a skin emollient
-pure ghee is an option and has been used for babies skins in Asisa
for eons, and Zim’s crack creme another, used far less time in human
history!- OR you could take some unscented glycerine soap and chop
it into smallish pieces, melt it in a dedicated pan for non-food that
is stainless steel or Pyrex, kimex or the like then remove from heat
when liquid, and add:, into an 8 oz bar or mass of the soap base, 3
oz. American or imperial of pure borax, or even 20 mule team will
do, and about 20 drops of essential oil of spearmint (a great
emollient oil that is also whitening on skins) and a dropper full of
tincture of benzoin (available at a pharmacists near the other
simples like glycerine, sweet oil, spirit of camphor, etc.) and if
you have it a cube of natural camphor (the edible type individually
wrapped in cubes that are scored ( by the way store an opened package
of it in a glass jar or other glass container with a tight fitting
preferably non-metallic lid), Stir well, colour if you like with any
food safe colourant and pour into a wide mouth jar, or other
container that you can get your fingers into to scoop out a usable
amount and wash your hand with it after working…after a few days
using any crack product will no longer be necessary for the most
part- perhaps at the end of the week some extra conditioner may be
indicated to put a film of penetrating emollient on your hands but
the cracking problem will disappear on most skins entirely with
regular use. that is daily washing at least twice - once when you
arrive at the studio to remove oils before handling the metals and at
the end of the day when finishing working for that day…

rer

Unlike Dr. Mac or R.E.Rourke, my “Doc” isn’t a reference to being an
actual doctor, but rather is derived from a nick related to a
Firesign Theatre character, (Dr. Memory) But that said, I know a bit
about medical stuff from personal experiences.

I suffer from a severe case of psoriasis and sometimes develop huge,
painful and often bloody cracks in my hands and neither finger cots,
Band-Aids, tapes or other bandages will suffice to allow me to
continue to work without experiencing excruciating pain.

Superglue to the rescue! My dermatologist says I can use it with
impunity. He says to go ahead and pour it on & don’t sweat what
might run into the crevices. And experience (rather than scholarship)
proves that Superglue, rather than simply not stinging, actually has
an anesthetic property about it and allows the jewelry to flow from
these busted-up old hands.

Hi Mark!

Haven’t had a chance to research any links yet but I was going to
Google “secondary by-products of cyanoacyrlate heating 1900*F” to
see what comes up. Never checked it out myself because I use it so
rarely- felt absolutely no ill effects any time I used it though and
I don’t have exterior ventilation- tho my workspace is quite large-
14X25"

Torch I’ve used is an atmospheric/Acetylene- haven’t tried it with
oxy-acetylene though, not sure what difference it will make.

Kenton Stevens

Hi Mark!

Haven’t had a chance to research any links yet but I was going to
Google “secondary by-products of cyanoacyrlate heating 1900*F” to
see what comes up. Never checked it out myself because I use it so
rarely- felt absolutely no ill effects any time I used it though and
I don’t have exterior ventilation- tho my workspace is quite large-
14X25"

Torch I’ve used is an atmospheric/Acetylene- haven’t tried it with
oxy-acetylene though, not sure what difference it will make.

Kenton Stevens