http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/stone_crown.htm
There’s a very imformative and authoritative artictle in Tips this
time about building settings. It’s a good one. I want to comment,
though, about how to solder prongs. Mr. Simon suspends an underbezel
on U-Shaped wires to solder. The concept of suspending it on two
points is sound, but how does one solder 40 26 gauge prongs on a pear
shaped ballerina using U-Shapes? I’ve found that using one piece of
wire for 2 prongs-a U - makes it difficult. Moving or bending one
affects the other, too. In terms of square/plumb issues, it’s better
to use single wires - they’re straight, too. If there’s a reason to
build a 3.5 mm setting, I solder a given wire on TOP of the lower
bezel, file quadrants, and solder to the top - being 4
spacers/“posts” between. Most work will be larger. The prongs will
be far enough apart to solder without flowing the others. So, I go
around and solder them individually. On a ring, install the lower
piece into the shank first, so it’s part of the ring. Then I put 2 or
more prongs on the lower part. One N, and one S, at least. If it’s
a setting plate with a big center and a surround, it’s just like a
simple round stone - just more prongs. Then balance the top part on
the N/S prongs - the “two points”, as square and plumb as you can get
it, and solder. (gently) Bend the top as needed to get
square/straight/plumb. You can replace the prongs later if they get
too messy. Then go around and solder all the prongs into the lower
part (only). You can just lay it into the grooves you made and flow.
Then you trim the top, and pull them into place, and bend the tips to
the plane of the stone girdles, and then solder the top
part…Done. Just inspired to write…