Couldn't take part in the discussion before due to time pressures,
but I have read what was posted on the the subject. There are some
obvious gaps which needs to be filled.
Contrary to popular advice, one should never attempt to turn the
blade in sharp corner. We are not carpenters, and that is carpenter
technique. The jewelry saw must be looked as graver. As in engraving,
cuts are done counter-clockwise only ( for right-handed ), all feeds
are done by left hand in coordination with the right hand holding the
saw and supplying oscillating motion. ( I know it does not look this
way, but in practice the right technique will emerge ). As in
engraving, tight corners are achieved by entering the corner from
design opposing directions. In another words, there are never should
be a waving line, only groups of intersecting arcs and that brings us
to the old subject of planning before cutting.
Blade breakage: 2 primary factors to consider providing that bench,
sitting at the bench and other similar factors had been taken care
of; blade quality and union with a frame. Now we entering into area
esoterics. If one belong to the school of "good enough" no need to
read any further.
Blade manufactures simply cannot provide blades of required quality.
Some better than others, but even the best are wanting. The blades
must be finished by the user. There are weird things about tempering
steel, which metalurgists do not want to discuss, but steel, after
hardening and tempering, has to relax at room temperature for about
18 months to achieve proper temper. It is not important for normal
size objects, but can be critical for saw blades, especially small
ones. Used to one could find an old stock, but today with on demand
inventories it is impossible, so here is what you do. Buy blades in
gross and bake them inside a loaf of bread. After bread is done, do
not take loaf out of the oven, but let it cool inside the oven
overnight. That will relax blades sufficiently to be useful.
ends with cigarette lighter sometimes works, but not for every job.
Union with the blade: There is only one ideal combination of
sawframe, blade, blade tightness, speed of sawing, and etc for a
particular job. What I am trying to say that one must have large
selection of blades and saw frames. and know how to combine them. Saw
frames should be of different weight for each size of the frame. And
stay away from cheap frames. Where one finds sawframes in different
weight ? One has to make it. Buy a high-quality frames like French or
German. They usually work well with 2/0 blades. For thinner blades
lighten up the frame by drilling holes in the frame. You must do it
intelligently so frame will not be destroyed. The thinner the blade,
the more holes should be drilled. Drill only a few holes at a time
and try how it feels. Proceed slowly.
The subject of using jeweler's saw is the most ignored in school
curriculums and the result of that it is pathetically
under-represented in modern jeweler arsenal of techniques, and that
is a shame.