This was my first guess but you said clay so I did a search and came up with this info of clay mixed with ash…https://www.cooksongold.com/forum/archive/index.php?t-6098.html
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That description matches Rob’s video.
Unrelated to construction:
I clicked on “view full version”, then on photobucket slideshow at bottom of the first post.
Is the ninth photo showing a hidden weapon or is it just a handy swizzle stick?
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A related question…Does anyone know where to get the heavy tweezers that I see being used in these filigree videos?..Rob
I made mine by taking a good pair of normal tweezers (solidly built–they don’t wiggle back and forth) and grind them down so that they have blunt, heavy tips. I also bought some heavier from a teacher who had them machined in Germany to her specifications, but I actually use the smaller ones I made myself more often, even when I’m not doing filigree. They are excellent for all kinds of small tasks because they let you leverage your hand strength more efficiently.
HTH,
Makena
Hi Rob, I have not tested my thoughts but I feel that it is “Green Sand” as used in sand casting and possibly mixed with something as the surface has a little more sheen than the standard green sand.
Do a Wikapedia search into it, you may be surprised.
I may try delft clay since I have some. It burns where it makes direct contacts with melted metal. I am not sure if this will interfere with solder flowing, but I won’t know until I try it. More when I know it…Rob
Love watching these videos… Sadly, the photobucket images of the step by step process have been removed 
. But the text and video says it all!
This is my first piece of filigree that I am willing to post. I had to modify my torch a bit to get a softer, less concentrated, flame. My goal is to first learn about traditional filigree and then see if I can work it into my style of cuff bracelets. After a lot of trial and error this week, I have figured out how to draw and roll fine wire and form it into traditional filigree shapes. I am challenged to find much on line, other than you tube videos, to help me learn more about filigree. If anyone has suggestions, please pass them on. Thanks…Rob
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Hi Rob,
Search YouTube for a fellow named “Filigreenus”. His work is fantastic!
He demos making filigree wire and how to incorporate it in many designs. He also makes wonderful chains, and more.
Denny Diamond
Rob, if you are willing to pay for a resource go check out Victoria Russian Filigree DVD and eBook by Victoria Lansford, she has a video where she works thru several projects.
Thanks, I have looked at what I can of her work on line. I have learned a lot, but putting it to practice is still a challenge…Rob
Making progress and having fun with filigree. For someone who has forged and fabricated big heavy cuff bracelets for years, filigree is a big change. I don’t need a lot of tools, and my new optivisor helps a lot. I still need to tune my torch down a bit and do a lot of research and trial and error into what size stock renders what size frame and filigree elements…Rob
Lovely!
den
Doing great. Tip for a torch. Get one of those screw on heads for small disposable propane bottles not those ones that are 12 inches high but just a slight bit bigger than a butane can. I get mine at Ace hardware near me. They are small but have larger flame and more heat than the small hand held torches.
Check out powdered Garnet sand. You can mix it with a little water to make it form like you want. It also can be pounded back into a powder and reused.
The clay in that video looks intriging. To me it has to have some sort of silicon in it to keep it flexible but heat resistant.
Reason that clay works and would be marvelous is it eliminates the need to keep the inner wires being under tension. Nothing worse than havind a piece with 5 to 10 wires all under tension, spring apart in your face, especially if your on carpet. That clay keeps the wires half imbedded. This leaves only a bit exposed to have the solder flow on. That again would be good for the tension reason, and the ability to do it on a domed piece. BUT…
You’re dealing with me and being thrifty/cheap. I do my pieces flat, then dome them after. I also put the piece very carefully on some elevated mess over an old cake pan. I flux with watered down paste flux. Then I take a piece of copper I hammered into a specialized spoon to sprinkle the powdered solder on. After I transfer the piece to a charcoal block to solder. This way I can collect the excess solder and reuse it. Otherwise you lose a lot of solder, even using that clay from the video.
I’ve lots of little tricks that I do, that I only think of as it comes up. I’ve been doing filligree for over 12 years. Its fun and frustrating. Any help I can give, just ask. It might jog the old brain to remember what I just do without thinking. By the way I work very hot, and have great results its all in the torch and wrist as you probably know.
AGGIE. In Orlando having its last cold snap of the year. Others are bundled up with 69 degree weather.
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Aggie…Thanks for your offer of help and good suggestions. I too am “thrifty” and try to use and reuse until it is worn out, can’t be repaired or just won’t work. That way I can use what I have to buy more tools. I tell people that I retired to buy tools. I have made large heavy bracelets for most of the last 45 years. For me filigree is a very different way of working with metal. I am enjoying it a lot and it may be the way of my future as I look for ways to make jewelry that aren’t so hard on my hands. Since I also enjoy lapidary, I will look for ways to incorporate lapidary into filigree. I do need to buy some actual filigree solder. I have been using small snips of sheet solder and touch soldering with wire solder rolled very thin. My filigree wire is reused fine silver that I have cast into ingots, rolled, square, drawn to 26G, twisted very tight and then rolled again flat to .5mm with lots of annealing along the way. This takes time, so I will buy 100 feet of 26G fine wire the next time that I buy silver. I would love to see pictures of your work. Feel free to contact me privately if this works better for you. Thanks…Rob
Great job!
Contents: Water, Silica and Aluminum Oxide.
Hi,
I watched your video link and recall reading about this process…I cannot remember the resource…
it appears that he is:
(I read about this in a jewelry making resource and did try it…it works…gotta clean the wires with alcohol to remove the clay residue…)(I will try to recall the resource and post later)
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placing the metal/ design on a regular clay, such as plasticine
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creating a frame around the clay (ie: tape)
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pouring a plaster of some sort (I read in some jewelry making resource about the use of Plaster of Paris, and did try it).
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after the plaster dries, remove the tape, peel off the clay.
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the metal design is embedded in the plaster of paris, and does not come off when peeling of the clay due to the subtle undercuts that the plaster of paris filled in
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solder the metal/ design while it is embedded in the plaster
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break off the plaster…it burns to brittle…dissolve in water?..I forget how I removed it…)
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i seem to recall needing ALOT of heat…plaster is heat sink…
I was using this method when soldering together settings into a design configuration…not sure how it would work for filigree…but video appears to show that it would…
just my morning musings…
Julie
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here is a related post…talks about the plaster needing to be “bone” dry…
https://orchid.ganoksin.com/t/plaster-of-paris-for-soldering/
search 'plaster of paris soldering", in the archives to see more related comments…
(omg, I need a new laptop…my trackpad is possessed by evil spirits!)
Julie
Hi,
ok, I recalled the jewelry book that discussed this process, with photo examples!):
(Project 19- Filigree Brooch- the brooch is actually photographed on the book cover- the middle photo, on the bottom row of three)
Julie