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Soldering brass without a line


#1

Hi,

I am making brass bangles. Ive been using (yellow) brass solder to
join brass rods together to form a bangle. Once I solder them and
then file/polish the excess off of the join the bangle looks perfect.
The problem is when the brass ages and darkens over time the join and
solder colors show up. Am I not using the right brass solder or is
there some other technique that I should be using.

Thank you for any help.
HB


#2

Have you tried ordinary brazing rod, available at hardware stores?
It’s what some knife makers use and it seems to age well.

RC


#3

Hello,

This is my first attempt at posting, I’m a new member and just
learning the art. I was very interested in your post on making brass
bangles. Would you mind sharing the dimensions of the brass you are
using? Are you using tubing or pipe, round, half round, etc? I am
presently working with copper, but so far just with wire and the
gauges I’m using are too flimsy for anything very large.

I’d appreciate any assistance that can be offered

Thanks,
Barbara


#4
Have you tried ordinary brazing rod, available at hardware stores?
It's what some knife makers use and it seems to age well. 

You cannot solder brass with brazing rod. They both melt at about
the same temperature.

The “brass” solder the OP is using is a low silver content silver
solder. It has so much copper and zinc in it it looks a little like
brass, but it will definitely age to a different color than brass.

Jim

James Binnion
James Binnion Metal Arts


#5
The problem is when the brass ages and darkens over time the join
and solder colors show up 

Vikas, I have yet to use a “brass solder” that, over time, continues
to match the color of brass. I use hammered-and-snipped pieces from
a 1/16" brazing rod as solder – it’s the best match I’ve found. You
can only use this on “red brass” (CDA #230 alloy) because brasses
with a higher zinc content will melt before the brazing rod pieces
do. I also use the black flux because the brazing rod pieces melt at
a higher temperature than do most other solders.

Enjoy!
Judy Bjorkman


#6
Vikas, I have yet to use a "brass solder" that, over time,
continues to match the color of brass. I use hammered-and-snipped
pieces from a 1/16" brazing rod as solder -- it's the best match
I've found. You can only use this on "red brass" (CDA #230 alloy)
because brasses with a higher zinc content will melt before the
brazing rod pieces do. 

Nice trick, after brazing does the joint match in color or are you
still able to see some of the more yellow tone of the brazing rod?

James Binnion
James Binnion Metal Arts


#7

Hi, I used to make lots of red brass bangels and I used hard silver
solder. The trick is to have both ends totally flush and you will
hardly notice any line at all. A little trick I use is to cut a 3/4 “
strip of 220 sandpaper 12” long. Fold it in half and clam it in a saw
frame. I stick it between both ends to be soldered and sand it up and
down until both ends are flush. Cutting your blank as vertical and
square as possible helps a lot.

Good luck, Vince, Oakridge, OR


#8
Nice trick, after brazing does the joint match in color or are you
still able to see some of the more yellow tone of the brazing rod? 

James, the color match is not 100% perfect (it’s just the “best
match”), but you have to use your imagination and work at seeing the
difference. And the color blends with that of the brass, being yellow
and not that visually jarring gray. Of course when the work is
polished, even a little, no difference at all is visible.

Judy Bjorkman