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Solder Stop

I need to attach a 12x16 mm bezel to an fluted surface.

In the past I tacked the bezel and then built a dam of
’White-Out’ and flooded the inside of the bezel with solder.
This works except it sometimes takes 4 or 5 attempts to get a
100% bezel to surface soldering.

The solder meniscus is no problem as the cabochon is set on a
plastic riser.

This morning I tried the dissolved red rouge in light oil. The
oil boiled and ran under the bezel. And boy, oh boy, is
everything on the work bench red. Plus the mixture burns as does
the 'White-Out". Yellow ocher is not easy to use but at least
does not burn and fume and is the easiest to remove in hot
pickle. Does anyone have an other material that might work?
Another technique?

Thanks all,
Bill in Vista

I need to attach a 12x16 mm bezel to an fluted surface.

I am not sure if this is an appropriate solution, but have you
considered cutting a 12 x 16mm hole that would fit the bezel
(cutting right through the fluted surface) and soldering it in
place that way? You would have to back the bezel, and it would
sit a little lower, but it’s an easy solution. I had a similar
situation recently and this worked for me.


Hello Bill: I had always heard that “Indian Ink” worked as a
solder stopper.

Michael Mathews Victoria,Texas USA

I don’t know what your set up is like? When Iuse Yellow ocher I
mix it with alcohol thick then use a broken saw blade to put wear
I need it. then burn the alcohol off. flux, solder. I think the
thing is to mix thick. Hope this helps.

No ice yet bum.
True in Mn.

Bill, How fluted is the surface? In my experience the bezel will
pull away from the base plate if gaps between the plate and bezel
are filled with solder. Two more secure ways that avoid the need
for a solder stop but involve more work come to mind. One: file
the bottom of the bezel to the contours of the fluting (ha, I
told you more work, didn’t I?) or flatten the area where the
bezel will be attached. Flattening the attachment area seems to
me to be the easiest way.

Marilyn Smith

Hi Bill, I am about to run the grave risk of sounding
persnickety; please, do not punish! (for all you Rogar fans).
Since I can’t see the piece you’re working on, I’m making some
assumptions, among them that you’ve just placed the bezel on the
fluted surface without any drilling or shaping of the surface to
more securely accept it. I don’t know how feasible that process
would be, to take a bur or engraving tool and dig a little well
to accept the bezel, but it would certainly obviate the need for
so much solder and give a much more secure bond. Besides, take it
from the Solder Queen, that much solder fill develops nasty
porosity and possible problems for the next jeweler who may need
work on the piece (Yi! I’ve had things apparently BUILT of
solder come across the bench! Wudda headache!), but if that’s the
only way to do it, try setting the pieces up with soldering
investment, available in most supply catalogs. It’ll hold the
bits in place and allow you to clean and trim to perfection, then
flow your solder in only those spots.

Here’s to Handy Helpful Hints!

i’ve seen a jeweler use pencil lead as a stop. you can also use
a sharp pencil as a soldering pick

Thanks all for the many suggestions. There are too many pieces
required for me to cut into the fluted pieces and each bezel is
a little different in size and matched to the cabs. I had an idea
and decided to reverse the sequence I had been following.

I tried filling a bezel with paste flux then heating until the
flux was glassy. This held the bezel in place and filled the
flutes inside the bezel with hardened flux. Then I painted a dam
of white-out around the bezel and soldered. Not too shabby. I
got about a 85% solder the first time. About 3/16 of an inch
still unsoldered but already eliminated one step (the tacking of
the bezel) and maybe can reduce this to 2 solderings per.

An aside…this was done with a “pink” white-out borrowed from
a lady. It did not flame up nor stink up the room. Alas, it was
not available at the Office Depot anymore. Pastels are passe’.

The suggestions have been most interesting and range from India
ink, to pencil lead, Stabilo pencil, red rouge dissolved in oil,
Filmo and the making of a flower/water/oil dough.
Bill in Vista

Hmmmm… Maybe I missed something but I have always thought
the best method of preventing solder flow was the oldest and most
simple yellow ochra powder. Availabe thru any supply house, you
simply mix with enough water to make a paint-like solution and
brush it wherever you desire. Solder, pickle and scrub/steam it
off afterward. No toxic fumes, it’s cheap as dirt (literally)
and nothing is more effective.

Best wishes;

Steve Klepinger

Hi Folks, Although soldering investment is best, it is easy
enough to use your casting investment. Just mix it a little
thicker. This saved my butt several times in the past.


Hi Folks, Although soldering investment is best, it is easy
enough to use your casting investment. Just mix it a little
thicker. This saved my butt several times in the past.


Check for water-based white out at Office Depot or any other
office supplier . . . the water based I found was made by BIC.