Would one use white or yellow gold solder to put a white gold
peg-head on a yellow gold shank? Wouldn’t you have to be careful
of the solder running on to the wrong color metal?
Thanks,
Bob B
Would one use white or yellow gold solder to put a white gold
peg-head on a yellow gold shank? Wouldn’t you have to be careful
of the solder running on to the wrong color metal?
hi bob, this guy uses soft yellow, the heat conductivity and
melting point of the white gold head affect the solder so it is
not very anxious to run all over. it will if you use too much
solder, get things too hot or don’t prepare the joint properly.
to prepare the joint one drills an undersize hole for the peg
and then chamfers the hole with a ball or hart bur that is about
twice the size of the hole. prepare the peg by lightly filing
the corners press the peg into the hole an then solder. be sur
there is no ‘air’ between the head and ring. these past few
years i’ve taken to using those specially made tweezers that
clamp the head and ring tgether while soldering, they also act
as a heat sink so it is almost impossible to melt your prongs.
don’t waste your money on the made in india tweezer. now, if
some solder does run onto your prongs, polish them and the
solder real nice with end brushes. if you’re really
parrrrrticular rhodium plate them. have fun
geo fox
Would one use white or yellow gold solder to put a white gold
peg-head on a yellow gold shank?..
Bob,
I use white gold. If you use a very small amount, the solder
will flow into the joint and not be seen. If some does pudlde on
the shank, just file it off. Many I have seen obviously use
yellow gold and leave some of it covering the end of the peg
head. Hope this doesn’t confuse the issue.
Sharon Ziemek
GoldStones, Inc.
Would one use white or yellow gold solder to put a white gold
peg-head on a yellow gold shank
Bob, Just to confuse you futher, I always use the predominant
color. If the main ring is yellow, I use yellow, if white I use
white. If you heat from beneath (of course there are always
exceptions), by the time the mounting reaches the required temp.
for the solder to flow the smaller lighter head will also be
there. Making sure the mounting is a bit hotter will protect you
from running any solder up the prongs. I always try to use hard
solder for heads (but there are always exceptions). Be sure you a
polishing the head perfectly first and stiff wheel after
soldering. If you are running solder up the head it’s getting too
hot. Its not easy but after you do a few hundred of them you will
only have to polish the solder because the head will stay shiny.
I don’t like that head soldering gadget. Freehanding will serve
you well down the road.
Mark P.
Use yellow to solder a white head onto a yellow shank.
Happy soldering
Creole
As to my previous note use yellow. White solder actually eat
into the yellow gold.
Creole
Bob: Using a white gold setting and yellow gold shank, I prefer
14kt yg solder. It usually rhodium plate the setting with my pen
plater after setting the stone. This gives the setting a very
good color and covers any yellow in the recesses of the setting.
Regards:
Roger W. Kitchens
Jewelry Manufacturing, Repair & Restoration
http://web2.airmail.net/rogerk
Just as a tip: When soldering a head to a shank, a model maker
suggested that I use a ball from tumbling media (barrell
tumbling, I use stainless steel shot). I stick the ball into the
head and wire the shank to the head with binding wire. The ball
acts as a heat sink, keeping the head from getting too hot. Less
solder run off, more control.
regards,
allan freilich
Hiya Bob,
Soldering things together is a great pass time for jewellers to
talk about. Most don’t use the same company to purchase solders
from so results always differ. Generally the rule is to use the
base metal colour for the solder colour. This is not written in
stone. Pick a company for solder.
Handy&Harmen
Johnson Mathey
Crown ****
Rio Grande
Nei
I used all these company and currently use crown as my main
sorce of solder when stateside. Soldering a peg head into a
half round shank with the hole fully drilled thru the shank. The
head being 14k w/g stamping with a w/g lapp solder at the apex
and ring is 14k y/g toob ring thats lathe cut. The following
solders produce these results soldering from the inside the ring;
- 14k y/g soft prodces a good fill in the hole, makes the turn
between the shank and the head but has a tendency to bleed into
the lap joint. 2. 14k w/g soft - same results but avantage in
colour. 3. 10 y/g soft - extreme bleeding problem weak joint. - 14k y/g hard - strong joint but has tenedency to have either
have short joints or a cold solder. All these results using
either Little Torch No.4 tip or Meco Torch No.38 tip. I prefer
14k w/g soft. Jim alpine@hay.net