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Shaping of Gravers


#1

When I start my setting class at “Peninsula School of Art” on
August 3-7th I will be showing all of the students how to
"Bright-Cut". This is ranging from the simplest Gypsy/Flush setting
to the Channel-Setting. I even Bright-Cut inside the prongs on a
Princess setting claw/prong, of course not to forget the Bezel
setting.

To me Bright-Cutting is the final stage in setting, it’s like making
a car with no tires! Each of the students will be receiving (at a
minimum fee), three (prepared by myself) gravers, a Flat graver #40
(Valorb/Glardon #12). One basic Onglette #1 plus my hand-modified
Onglette #2 that has been shaped to cut only on one side.

As I Bright-Cut the Oval-Bezel, the metal will shine & give more
luster to the inside of the Bezel wall. I will even show how to shape
the metal inside the 4-prong wall, with this same 'Right-Sided"
graver. I want them to see how a Diamond Setter sets diamonds. I
avoid using a triangular file, as it leaves a serrated edge, but my
"Right-Sided" graver avoids this way of filing.

As some jewellers are ‘left-handed’, I am preparing a ‘set’ just for
them.

I don’t want them to sit & waste precious time learning to shape &
cut gravers. This process took me 6+ months, in my 9 year
apprenticeship
.

They are there to learn to set stones!!!

Gerry Lewy