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Scroll sawing


G’day; There has been some comment about gluing work pieces to a wood or
cardboard backing, or sandwiching between two ‘backs’. The latter seems to
me to be self defeating, for how can you see the outlines on your work?
But I don’t find that backing is at all necessary. The main problem seems
to be difficulty in holding the work piece down to the platen. My bought
scroll saw had a hole in the platen (for the blade, of course) that I felt
was too large. So I fitted a piece of 3mm plywood to the platen with a glue
called ‘No More Nails’ sold in builder’s suppliers. The hole in my platen
is now 3mm diameter. Next, you will find that finer blades (remember at
least 2 teeth in contact with the metal always) won’t lift the work so
easily. Finally, don’t force the work into the blade; let it cut it’s own
path with gentle pressure from you. And just another little suggestion;
when marking out sheet metal with a shape to be cut, I tend to use a piece
of quite thin acetate or Mylar. I either draw on it with a mounted needle
or use carbon paper, then cut carefully with a scalpel (the modeller’s shop
again) I use the shaped hole in the transparent material not the positive
piece - it is easier to hold. This means I can place my design precisely
on the sheet where I want it. Essential for marking out slices of lapidary
material to avoid including flaws, etc. Cheers

    /\      John Burgess
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(_______)   It's springtime in Mapua Nelson NZ And rains

mostly at night. 8mm last night, not a cloud this morning. Makes the
spring flowers glow!