I was going to suggest our power saw, but Kay beat me to it. It’s the
only saw specifically designed to be a powered jeweler’s saw. There
are a couple of fairly serious differences between the KC power saw
and a scroll saw.
A) purely vertical motion. Many of the scroll saws use a sort of
rocking beam system, which causes the blade to arc backwards and
forwards. OK in wood, with thick (for us) blades, but it causes all
sorts of havoc on trying to turn corners with jewelry scale blades.
B) Fails safe. The blade is the final link in a cable system, which
drives the blade. If the blade breaks, the cable goes slack, and the
motion dies instantly. No worries about it slamming a busted blade
into your fingers. It’s the only saw out there with this kind of a
C) Uses the full stroke of the blade. It’s optimized for thin sheet
material, under 1/8" thick. So it uses all of the available blade,
rather than just jackrabbiting along working only the middle inch
like scroll saws do. (They’re designed to be able to cut boards an
inch thick, so they use less stroke.) You can adjust it to do
thicker things, but it comes set up for thin sheet metal.
D) Blade guides and hold downs set up for jewelry scale blades. It
has a pair of carbide blade guides that support the blade just above
and below the cut, as well as a ‘zipper foot’ that holds the
material down against the table. Both of them are set up for jewelry
scale blades, rather than woodworking sizes, which means the blades
won’t flop around in oversized guides.
E) It’s slooooooow. If you put a standard flex shaft foot pedal on
it, you can get it to crawl along at ‘just barely moving’ or floor
it and go to about 120 strokes/min. This gives you much more control
in thin metal than you’d get with a scroll saw.
(It doesn’t come with a foot pedal because we figure anybody who’s
buying a $2K saw probably has a closet full of spare flex shaft foot
pedals already, as well as having definite opinions about which
style they prefer.) Personally, I use a Lucas Low-Boy on mine, and
we stock those if you’d like one with it. (Not listed on the
website, but we do have a couple around. Just ask. They’re $45.)
Also, unlike the variable scroll saws, you still have full torque at
the lower end. (there’s a pretty serious gearbox stepping the motor
RPM down, so while the blade may be crawling along, the motor
F) if you want to do beveled cuts, the frame rolls over, not the
table. So you keep sawing level, even if the cut isn’t. A
surprisingly helpful feature.
Just for funzies, if you look at the picture, that’s one of my
workbenches that it’s stuck to, with my favorite tool chest in the
background. So a very minor studio tour there.
Hope that helped,