Salvadore Dali, Eye of Time

I bought this “Salvadore Dali” book just for a 1/2-hour short
seminar. I was amazed at what I saw, that’s when I opened it up. I
said "I can do that kind of setting!" & it’s so easy to do." In
fact, this style of setting even has a name to it. It’s called
“Cut-Down Setting!” Why is it called this strange name? I’m going to
try & explain it. As you can see there are simply no raising of any
beads to hold a stone, or any stone for that matter. It appears on
the thin-section of the ‘tear drop!’
All it takes, is a “Flat Graver”
& place that knife-edge into the metal & give it a sliding-twist on
one side of the blade. In a pivoting twisting motion! The remaining
corner of the blade should still be on the edge of the metal. When
you have a sliver of metal over the girdle, that is all that you
need. The metal on the sides should be “Cut-Down”, or away from the
girdle of the stone. towards to side of the rings’ surface.

If you observe the cut metal, you can do that very easily with a
sharpened Flat-Graver #40. Another option is you could even use a
narrow Triangular #4 cut & file away leaving that sliver of metal to
hold the stone.

For those who requested my setting essays will find a closeup of
this same ring. But here, I’m describe how it’s done. Plus, if you
haven’t received my essays, you can ask me for them.

Salvadore Dali ‘approved’ of the setters choice of designing, in his
diamond setting techniques.

I suggest if could be returned to being a ‘common place’ in our
setting trade. Where could it be used, narrow wedding bands, along
side of an Engagement mount. You decide, the ‘door is open’, the
possibilities are enormous!

Gerry Lewy