I'd say do away with the brass and fold the lace over the
leading edge of the fine silver. Test the pressure is enough
by doing just the first 5mm and take it out to see the effect.
Lift the lace carefully to see this. Put the lace back in place
folded over the leading edge and roll it once. (Lace looks like
paper after this. Cannot sew back onto the dress it came from.)
I've also heard that one should not reverse . ..
Anyway, are you saying to just use Lace and fine silver (rather
than sandwich of other metals over the two??) We were worried
that we would make an imprint on the rollers of the mill, that is
why we used the brass.