Rolling mill cleaner

I recently purchaced a rolling mill for my bench, so I can get more
into fabricating stuff again.

I took it out of the box, and read the instruction manual… In which
it says “Remove the brown greased paper (on the rollers) and clean
with a mild degreaser.” It also instucts to use some machine oil on
it afterwords to prevent rust.

So here’s my questions - What would work as a mild degreaser? The
only “mild” degreaser I can think of is dish soap, but I’m worried
to use it as the water might make it rust.

Also would any type of machine oil work, or no? If not what type of
machine oil would you reccomend? (I have a number of tool oils around
the garrage, but I’m leaning twards heilco lube as it seems to be
pretty handy for everything. lol)

Please keep in mind that I live in florida, where the saltwater in
the air makes things rust quite easily.

Thanks for your time and any advice you can give!

John

We used WD-40 to clean ours.

Louise
http://www.jewelryspectrum.com

I learned to make jewelry in Coconut Grove (Miami, FL) and I
understand how the air there is.

I used some Fantastic or Formula 409 to degrease, and regular light
machine oil. Be sure to remove all pickle and water from any piece
you plan to put into your mill!

I now coat my mill and all my tools with Brown’s Snake Oil. I’ve
found nothing better to prevent rust on steel tools.

Lacquer thinner will remove the brown paper and the traces of Grease
with out rusting the metal then you can wipe down with alcohol to
remove the lacquer thinner and if you look up on the web I have a
product that works good for coating the rolls and stops from rusting
and doesn’t transfer to your parts. It’s call Brownpolymer and can
be found at enjenjoesproducts.com

Thanks Randy
AKA Enjen Joes Products

John

Brake parts cleaner from an Auto Store will get rid of any caked in
Grease but you want to have some sort of a coating I do recommend the
3 in one (for the sewing machines) to be applied when not in use.

Regards
Kenneth Singh
46 Jewelry Supply

John -

I just degreased a bracelet mandrel using one of those "orange"
cleaners. Seemed to work, but just did it, so no long-term benefits
or detriments are known yet.

Ivy

John

it says "Remove the brown greased paper (on the rollers) and
clean with a mild degreaser." It also instucts to use some machine
oil on it afterwords to prevent rust.

When I got mine it was covered in grease. I used a paper towel to
wipe off the bulk of the material and then used a solvent like
Lighter Fluid or turpentine. I would not use dish soap.

I don’t know the oil you stated, but I have a quart of 5 weight oil,
non detergent, for wiping down my metal with when not in use. I have
to tell you I live in Colorado and rust here is not a big problem,
but I did live in Florida for about 4 years and know what you are
facing. Another thing I use on unpainted metal to keep it from
rusting is car polish. Just depends on what affects your work.

Terry

Hi all,

We have a product here called Lanotec which is Lanolin in a carrier -
convenient spray pack (hand-operated). Works well to the best of my
knowledge, I’ve been using it for about 18 months now. Humidity is my
problem here in Queensland, Australia! Lanolin was recommended to me
by a goldsmith friend, but I was unable to source just straight
Lanolin.

Kimmyg
http://www.northcoastbeadmakers.com

When using Brown’s polymer aka snake oil to clean and lubricate your
rolling mill, does it transfer to what you have rolled and make
soldering problems?

Carla

When using Brown's polymer aka snake oil to clean and lubricate
your rolling mill, does it transfer to what you have rolled and
make soldering problems? 

when applied it must be rubbed to a dry film if left wet it will
transfer. But works great dry stays on the surface applied to.

Thanks Randy
AKA Enjen Joes

When using Brown's polymer aka snake oil to clean and lubricate
your rolling mill, does it transfer to what you have rolled and
make soldering problems? 

Well, no more than does any lubricant. I always at the very least
clean my joints before soldering them, and quite often file/sand them
as well.

BTW, he says that only turpentine removes Snake Oil but I use it
(Snake Oil) in almost every operation I perform, i.e., graving,
bright-cutting, sawing, filing, sanding, I use it on Heatless Mizzy
wheels, Cratex wheels, separating disks, etc and ultrasonics with
ammonia/detergent and steaming removes it just fine.