Hello everybody, I just started using the Jump Ringer from Rio and all
my rings come out with really bad burrs. I am using the dry
lubricant for cutting. Did any of you encounter this kind of problem
and do you know what to do about it? When I cut the rings with the #4
saw they never have any burrs.
Any advice on how to avoide this problem would be really appreciated.
I just spent about 16 hours making a chain mail piece and realised
that it is to scratchy to wear!!!
Best regards,
Ruslana
Burrs:- Use a lot of lubricant and move the saw SLOWLY down the slot.
You might try tumbling them before you start your chain mail. Any
saw will leave a flashing, the finer the saw the less left but all
will leave it. The media used in the tumbler will be decided by the
metal you are using.
Don
Ruslana, I have used this tool also and found that liquid lubricant
is best and after assembling a chain such as a chain mail, it is best
to tumble finish it to remove any burs in abrasive media…I am
assuming you are not soldering your rings together. Whew! I tried
that, endurance test!
Regards,
Sara
Dear Ruslana, If you do not lubricate the blade and rings well, the
heat will build up and you will get these burs. You must also use the
speed of the foredom to help you cut smoothly and quickly through the
coil. Use one quick and direct motion and keep the material cool and
lubricated. This should alleviate the problem. If you have any
questions, please contact the Rio Grande Tech Line at 1-800-545-6566.
Sincerely,
Joe Lovato
Hello Ruslana There are several reasons for a circular saw blade to
generate burs:
Dull blade or missing teeth. You cannot tell whether a blade is
dull by feeling its teeth. The only way to tell if a blade is dull is
by trying a new one and seeing if it makes a difference. Premature
wear can be caused by running your flex shaft machine while inserting
or removing the blade from the slot in the steel top plate. If the
blade rubs on the steel it will become dull or lose teeth. It can also
be dulled by overheating. This can be eliminated by lubricating the
entire length of the coil where the cut will occur instead of
lubricating the blade. This ensures a constant supply of lubricant.
The blade’s temperature can also be held down by running your machine
at top speed, making your cut as quickly as possible and stopping the
motor as soon as the cut has been completed.
Soft wire. Metals such as copper, silver (especially pure) and
aluminum tend to smear if they are dead soft. Try using half hard
wire. You will see a marked difference. If you cannot buy half hard
wire, you can harden soft round wire by securely chucking it in your
#30 hand piece. While holding the hand piece horizontally in one hand,
hold the other end in a serrated parallel jaw pliers and exert a
slight pull. Start the motor slowly and gradually build up speed. You
will see the wire actually twisting (work hardening) but its shape
will not change because it’s round. If your wire is too heavy to use
the flex shaft you can accomplish the same thing with the Jump Ringer
winder.
If you want super smooth cut ends, try running your jump rings in a
small tumbler for about a half hour. They will not tangle because the
kerf (cut width) is less than the thickness of your wire.
If these suggestions do not solve your problem, please e-mail me
directly.
Ray Grossman
Ray Grossman Inc.
Manufacturers of Jump Ringer
Dear Ruslana, I can’t offer much help with the jump ringer problem but
I may be able to save your piece of chain mail. I had the same
problem and I put mine in a cheap tumbler with pumice powder and
after a couple of hours the mail was fine to wear.
Good luck,
Pauline