Any tips on making the ring band edges flush with the backplate for good soldering connection?
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I don’t make a lot of rings. When I do make one with a bezel, I make the ring and then file a flat on it, sometimes almost all the way through depending on the size of the bezel. That way there is only one solder joint and, more importantly, you can size the ring first and then solder the bezel and set the stone without any worry about the ring fitting when you are done. Good luck…Rob
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I’ll assume you’ve tried to file these ends flat by the tried and true eye-balling method, lol. It can be tricky because files always take off a little more material than we think they will so one slight turn to the left or right and you’re out of kilter.
You could try securing the shank in the flat end of a ring clamp, leaving just a smidge of the ends beyond the end to file. This might give you a straight end to work towards, which could be checked against a square. Another option is to use a Miter Jig, which if you don’t have you might consider purchasing. They have many uses and will definitely give you two flat ends.
You don’t mention what size file you’re using. It may be easier to get the surface you want if you use a flat file that’s larger than a needle file
This is a fun style of ring shank, but I get what Rob is saying because any future sizing or repair would add an additional seam. But not to worry, anyone doing repair or sizing will be up to the task.
Good luck and let us know how it goes!
Pam
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Hi,
i second everyones comments!
i am thinking a few random things…
while filing the “flats”, you want to be able to hold/ secure the shank so that the two shoulders/ sides/ ends remain parallel and do not move, are not allowed to twist/ torque…
use a large flat hand file cut 0, and make deliberate flat strokes…across both ends at the same time…i tend to sort of tap the file down and “feel” it “seat” on the surface…(which is why i like a large flat hand file, versus a smaller needle file) and then push stroke…file…check the fit…file…check the fit…deliberation…patience…try not to rock the file…
julie
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I will second what the others said. Perhaps the easiest is just to lay it on the bench peg and file it parallelly.
One trick I’ve seen many beginners and even more experienced jewellers use is to mark the area with a sharpie. That way you know exactly what and where you are filing
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I have to agree with everone’s contributions. I’ve never had to use specialized equipment. Filing can be done with precision. File both ends of the ring shank at the same time and do it slowly and accurately. Extra solder can help to build up the joint. That too can can be filed away later.
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After filing the ends to get them pretty flat, I sand the ends - To do that and keep them perfectly flat, I have sandpaper glued to a piece of aluminum - glass would work too - the hard flat surface under the sandpaper means that your final sanding will be really flat. That piece of aluminum has two pieces of sandpaper, 300 and 600 grit, each 3” x 6” so the backing piece is 6” x 6”. It sits on edge on my bench and is one of my most used tools. I always use it to sand bezels flat and clean prior to soldering. Judy
x 6”
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Judy…I do the same thing, but use a small clip board as the backing…Rob
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Lots of great advice for filing the connection. This isn’t exactly what you asked, but is a tool that I find to be very helpful in making this kind of connection. They’re special tweezers for soldering settings onto rings. If the bezel is bigger than the flat part of tweezers then I use a coin or a non-galvanized steel washer to make it bigger. I’ve nicknamed these tweezers, “the magic tweezers” because you can easily check alignment before soldering. I use them whenever I can for a connection like this one. Most jewelry tool companies sell this style of tweezer.
Jeff
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I have a pair of those and LOVE them.
OK. A couple of pro tips here.
First. Buy the ring clamping solder tool that Jeff has posted. You’re gonna love it.
Second. First I cover the area to be filed with a black sharpie. It really helps to see where things are not quite flat or straight.
My secret to filing things perfectly flat is simple. Rotation. We all have the tendency lean our tools a little. Be they a file, emery, drill bits etc.
Third. When I need to file a flat surface I clamp my metal in a ring clamp and brace the clamp on my bench pin. Then I take a file and give it a stroke or two, turn the piece one quarter. Always maintain the same number of strokes. Then turn again, file, and repeat until it’s perfectly flat. I do the same when cutting seats for stones or drilling holes.
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