I use these too. The main things to keep in mind are :
1 Warming the cleaned mould thoroughly before the pour- make sure
there aren’t any small bits of gold around the base where the plates
join, or on the convex swages where the metal will go when poured.
Just a little carbon, gold,and grease can spread along the edge
causing a number of problems if you intended to yield a perfect rod,
but they’re nothing that further forging or drawing won’t eliminate
unless there was a lot of "gunk’ that wasn’t removed, or someone
accidentally used the mould for a metal other than whatever it was
dedicated to (gold for instance was what the mould was dedicated to,
and someone decided to melt nickel then used it, and stored it
without cleaning first).
2 Use the torch and lay in some blackening, if you’ve tried beeswax
and it didn’t work well. Sometimes the lampblack gives a coating
similar to what graphite would do. since there are many factors
involved like what kind of metals (clean casting grain, scrap,
raising or lowering the karat and any de-oxidants you may add) are in
the crucible and the torch work technique of one person compared to
another in using a relatively small mould all make a difference, if
blackening doesn’t work, try a bit of beeswax before warming- one or
the other should give you a complete rod or bar…
3 I always use a refining flux when melting - sal ammoniac and
pulverised/ powdered charcoal (1:4, store in an airtight container,
preferably non-metallic, as sal ammoniac is an humectant and will
absorb humidity from ambient air). It will give you a bright tough
ingot particularly with gold scrap included in the melt.
4 Make sure the mould is tightly secured plate -to-plate, no matter
which side you are using. On some moulds the plate for sheet/ingot
has a 'stop", it doesn’t line up perfectly, so you have to move it
over a bit to get good edge to edge contact. As long as it’s clamped
down as tightly as you can physically get it you shouldn’t get any
leaks, etc.
5 Using a well glazed crucible (’ Burno’ style with a hole in back)
well fixed in the tongs with the hole cleared to the extent possible
leaving a fresh coating of borax helps as long as you keep the torch
heating both mould and crucible pouring point warmed (the crucible
will be red hot and the mould may still be smoking the lubricant
-indicates that both parts are ready to accept the molten metal) and
the crucible is as close as possible to the mould without it being
directly on it or covering the mould inlet at all. you don’t want the
metal to have a further distance through air than to mould…
hope this is a good check for you, and you’ve already eliminated
these obvious points. Good luck. rer