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Printers for PnP blue


#1

Hello!!

Does anyone do their own printing of PnP blue? If so what printer
are you using and are you happy with it?

I know it has to be a laser and not a brother"s printer. I have
heard only bad about brothers printers that the toner really doesn’t
work well with PnP blue.

Thank in advance
Robin


#2
Does anyone do their own printing of PnP blue? If so what printer
are you using and are you happy with it? 

Or buy an inexpensive toner copier.

Elaine
CreativeTextureTools.com


#3

Robin, I use a Canon PC170 which I got specifically for using with
PNP. It is a portable lazer printer. The big advantage for those of
us using PNP is that it runs slowly and doesn’t get hot. I have a
large Canon copier, but did not want to take a chance with it as it
runs hot and I was warned that there was a danger of fusing the PNP
to the rollers.

I have given workshops in Ferric Chloride etching using the PNP as
our resist, and have used the little Canon PC170, with perfect
results.

You are right to avoid the Brother. A friend got one and has had
nothing but problems with it. Alma


#4

I am currently using a cheap hp printer about 200 from office depot
that is working fine.

Carin Jones


#5

I too a m currently working with PnP paper for an etching project.
Which BTW, I had taken it to Office Depot to print. They apparently
had no problem printing it. I think they used a photo copier opposed
to a laser printer…but not sure. Anyway, I’m in the process of
ironing on the paper to my sterling silver. I am experimenting and
running samples being that this is my first attempt with photo
etching. I am having difficulty with bubbles appearing each time and
of course when I take the acetate off, the toner comes off wherever
the bubbles were. It would not be a big concern in the field that is
empty but I am using lettering and the bubbles are appearing near
the lettering (which is somewhat fine) and parts of the letters are
coming off with the bubbles. Has any one experienced this and do you
have any ideas as to why it is happening and how I can rectify it? I
clean the metal thoroughly. Is it a heat issue? too hot, not hot
enough? time issue. Or perhaps it HAS to be a lazer print instead of
a photo copy. In my reading on how to do this it can be either one,
just not an ink jet printing which is the kind of copier I have at
home. Thanks so much.


#6

You do not need a laser printer, although you might get a denser
black if you use one. I use an inexpensive Canon PC428 (not a laser
printer). The beauty of it is that it will accept a half sheet of
PnP. It’s also small, so it’s relatively portable if you happen to
teach. It’s relatively jam-proof and easy to open up if there are any
problems. It’s been going strong for many years.

Rene Roberts


#7

Carol,

In my experience, the ironing process with PnP blue is fraught with
problems. Instead, I use an electric griddle, set to 300F. Attach
the PnP to your silver with masking tape, set it on the griddle and
using a wadded up paper towel, transfer the toner from the PnP to
the silver by using a tapping motion (no rubbing) for about 2
minutes (20 gauge). Remove the metal from the griddle without
touching the PnP (spatula is good) and allow to cool.

Peel off the PnP. Use a black sharpie for any touchups (should be
almost none with this method). This method gives reliable results if
the metal is properly cleaned. Good luck.

Jamie King,
laurasjewelryworkshop.com


#8

I use an HP 2605 and it works well.

Regards, Gary Wooding


#9

HI Carol,

Most copy places use a laser copier to reproduce items.

I too am having difficulty with photos. I think the is because of
the detail and the pixels being so close (not sure) I have gotten
better results by holding the iron on till the transparent film
starts to curl and lift off on it’s own.

The bubbles do not allow for contact of the toner to the metal. I
tape my transparency to the extra metal to hold it in position and
stable on two sides only. I apply the iron from the taped cornet
toward the rest of the piece to exclude bubbles (very important)

HTH
Robin


#10

Carol,

I too use very fine lettering and printing. It sounds like it’s
getting too hot. When transferring to silver my truck has been the
following.

Clean thoroughly with soap and water
Rub face with denatured alcohol
Put down PnP blue
Tape over the entire top of paper with blue painting tape Put iron in
top with no rubbing motion on the silk setting (just a few notches
below where it starts to steam)
Keep on for about 2 minutes
Quench in cold water

Carin Jones


#11

I can’t speak to if the copier is your culprit, but I can tell you
what I do to make that transfer process work well for me with
copper. My iron is set to the second highest setting (cotton), and I
place it on the metal and the pnp paper for about 3-6 seconds, give
or take one or two. I quickly rub a burnisher (mine is agate but you
could probably use the back of a spoon) over the pnp paper to get the
bubbles out and press the iron on again for a few more seconds. Then
I burnish and heat again, repeating the process as needed. I look
for the design to show through the pnp paper, which tells me that the
design is transferred or close to it. It is very quick, and perhaps
if you add the burnishing step you will have success.

good luck!
Kim


#12

I wish you all good luck with copying at a copy place. I have not yet
been able to find one that will copy onto anything but their own
paper. Barbara on another sunny day on the island that Sandy missed.
And aware just how fortunate we are.


#13

Barbara is right. I used to us. the local copiers, for my PNP but
they now refuse to do it. They explained that their new machines run
hot and that the PNP will fuse to their rollers. I tried several in
the area, but got the same answer. That is why I bought my small,
portable Canon laser copier which is excellent for using with the
PnP. I always get perfect results.

Alma


#14

Carol, The higher the heat, the less pressure is needed to adhere the
toner in PnP (and other image transfer films). Most toners start to
fuse around 275 F, but once you get to around 400 F you risk a
blurred image (melt point). I also use a griddle technique, except I
sandwich the metal between the griddle and an iron for a minute. I’ve
considered purchasing a GBC laminator machine. You can see examples
on You Tube of copper circuit boards being laminated with toner
transfer. Has anyone tried it for jewelry? Be aware that toner is
porous and may not hold up for long etches unless you do touch ups
along the way. – M. Quinnan Whittle Copperplate Etchings and Silver
Jewelry


#15

I use my local library. I asked them if it would be OK to print on
the PnP. They said that it had been used before without problems. At 5
cents a copy, it’s tough to beat.

Michael Nelson


#16

GBC laminator machine. toner is porous and may not hold up for long
etches I have this set-up and have used it with good results. Yes,
the toner is porous but there is a foil overlay that you run through
the machine after you laminate on the first coat. You also have to
take the GBC machine apart and change the gears to get more pressure
as the plate runs through the heated cycle.

Donna in VA