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Princess cut stone setting direction


#1

Orchid blog post highlight:

Quick tip: In which direction do you set Princess cut stone?
By Gerry Lewy

When setting a Princess diamond, there is one basic rule that must
be followed! The following photographs will explain everything. This
is very important! Always have the “longer” measured side of the
Princess stone, in the length of the finger…

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#2

Hello all,

I kind of disagree with this rule.

To my opinion the finger where the ring needs to fit is more
important then this rule. A long finger with a princess cut gemstone
set to this rule become for the eye a longer appereance just like a
black dress makes someone smaller. For a person with longer fingers
the appear to be very skinny and not elegant.

I leave it up to the person and let here make that final decision
after giving my opinion as a jweller and neutral observer. To me, it’s
more important that the customer is satisfied with the design and
gemstone instead of following basic rules.

This rule can not be aplied to every person due to the many
different fingerforms and handshapes. Another aspect of this rule is
that a design has to be created in order to have the best support for
a princess cut gemstone. The stone, handshape and fingerform aswell
as the design are very close linked togehter as one. Therefor this
rule can not pe apllied to everyone, not even as a basic rule.

Have fun and enjoy

Pedro


#3

Pedro Alonso-Sanchez

I find it difficult to believe aesthetics is not followed in this
setting of a princess stone. The basic setting is fine, but what
happens if the customer comes to me and say something is wrong with
the ring?

My cousin came to my office some years ago with the very same
problem. She said her fiance’s jeweller set her diamond and it looked
odd! What happened?

I looked at it and resolved the problem it was set “long” facing the
width of the finger.

All diamond engagement rings are made with the long flowing to the
knuckle nail layout. My responsibility as a setter and jeweller is
to correct the final appearance of a ring.

I know the old adage…“the customer is always right, no matter how
wrong she is!”. But a few times she might need some help in her
final decision

…Gerry!


#4

I agree with Gerry on this one. A stone’s length set along the length
of the finger (almost) always looks far more elegant than the other
way round. Besides which, these days with the average finger size
being larger than it used to be, due to many of us being larger than
we’d like (myself included), setting the stone lengthways down the
finger helps to narrow the appearance of the finger. I would imagine
that this orientation making a finger look too skinny would be a very
rare thing indeed. But setting across the finger would make the
majority of women’s fingers look too wide. I hope I don’t upset
anyone by saying this!

Helen
UK


#5

hello Gerry,

I find it difficult to believe aesthetics is not followed in this
setting of a princess stone. The basic setting is fine, but what
happens if the customer comes to me and say something is wrong
with the ring?" 

In that case, there was a bad communication between the designer,
goldsmith and the customer to my opinion.

My cousin came to my office some years ago with the very same
problem. She said her fiance's jeweller set her diamond and it
looked odd! What happened?

Again, the same problem between all parts! If the customer wants it
the other way, then that’s how it’s going to be against my advise and
honnest opinion and I’m out of trouble budy.

I looked at it and resolved the problem it was set "long" facing
the width of the finger. 

Gerry, If the case occurse with one of my customers, I make
recemondations having the stone set according that rule…but every
case is different. I can’t make it hard to my customers that one have
to have a princess cut gemstone in the longwise direction of her
finger because of this one rule. If it doesn’t look good, it isn’t
good.

All diamond engagement rings are made with the long flowing to the
knuckle nail layout. My responsibility as a setter and jeweller is
to correct the final appearance of a ring 

Your reponsibilty is to make the customer happy with good service
producing a jewel according here taste and guidelines. If you have to
correct something then that sonmething was not covered in the
producing cycle of that jewel. Correcting a setting due to a basic
rule is wrong. Correcting a setting because it looks bad to someones
finger is completly correct!

I know the old adage.."the customer is always right, no matter how
wrong she is!". But a few times she might need some help in her
final decision. 

Exactly, and you can advise with the way you look at it according
your knowledge and expertise!.

But telling someone that he/she has to set a princess cut gemstone
according that rule because it is a basic rule is not what I do. To
my opinion it is wrong. It’s a soft play of several facts and also
aesthetics which gives a fitted jewel his elegance and the best
"look". However, if she/he decides to have it different then that
will be the pivoting point of your resposibility.

You can only to your best to keep one pleased and satisfied with
your advise and craftmanship.

You don’t have to agree with my way of thinking Gerry, feel free to
do it otherwise. Using that rule for every person and all sizes of
fingers can’t be done. It has to look perfect for a given person and
that is my unwritten rule.

Have fun and enjoy
Pedro