Polishing and cleaning sterling silver

Finishing is an art form unto itself. So is preparing buffs. In the union shops that I worked in journeyman polishers were paid as much as the best diamond setters.
I was taught my finishing skills by a lovely German woman named Hlega. In Germany in times past it was considered a most important skill and was often taught to women before women were allowed to work at the bench.
Helga taught me how to break in new buffs, lapping, thrumming, etc. I spent a year as an apprentice in the polishing dept.
When I have more time I’ve been meaning to sit down and compile what I learned.

It’s Xmas though so I have to get back to work.
Jo

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Exactly Jo, some polishers especially those who worked on Platinum got very well paid.
I knew this fellow who told me in no uncertain words to ”get sway from my work area, I’m working on an expensive ring and it’s in Platinum!”
He garnered a lot of respect, as none in that factory.
He taught me about keeping his Platinum buffs away from the other gold polishing buffs.
He told me about that ’cross-metal contamination’ of gold to that dearly expensive metal.
Many times he spent over a half an hour or more, just to polish that one Platinum ring. That ring showed how great a polisher he truly was!
He was the best that I ever knew!
One day he told everyone out loud…”I’m now on Platinum!” We all knew not to talk to him until he was finished!

He was worth his highly paid salary.
Him & I were the best of friends, being both English, he taught me well & R.I.P.
“Gerry, on my busy, iPhone”

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Hey Jo
Thanks for sharing your polishing expertise and how you acquired it. Some very good info. Your silver steins are incredible. If you are still doing please PM me after the holidays.
Here are some things I do for sliver.

  1. Pre finish to 1200 emery or higher.
  2. For small items buff using flex shaft and soft bristle brushes that are repeatedly charged with 3in1 oil and Fabulustre. Was originally instructed to use wintergreen oil. Note always wear a respirator and eye protection.
  3. Final finish applied with stitched muslin buff in flex shaft and Fab.
  4. To clean use BCR ( Buffing compound remover) in a very hot ultrasonic. If you have good cavitation this will blow buffing compound off in a few seconds. For items that will not tolerate BCR a strong Dawn solution works. Then a gloved wipe down with a very clean rouge cloth.

Got a protocol that is similar for Pt with a few mods if any are interested.

My best to all.
Franz
PS Looks like this 2 horse trade shop is having a better December than 2019! Hope everyone else is too.

Neil- I didn’t make those cups. I restored them. They were made in the 1700s. I had to do some silver soldering on them and I can tell you that it scared the shit out of me. they had been previously badly “repaired” by a hack. So it was a rescue operation. I have made larger silver holloware but with age and infirmity my raising days are over.

(Attachment DW9W7080b copy.pdf is missing)

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I’ve got a slightly different take on polishing. I’m off grid, I don’t use an ultrasonic or steamer. My polishing method is simple. I use Greystar on a 4”X1/2” hard felt for all my flat areas followed by Greystar on a 4” yellow treated muslin buff. I clean the compound off with heated straight ammonia w/a squirt of Dawn. I use a stiff denture brush and it even gets the schmutz out of my hallmark and quality stamps without leaving any scratches. (hand fabricated sterling) Then LOS, a light touch on the Greystar buff and a final polish with Zam. Is this a finish I would put on a piece for a competition or a high dollar piece? No, I would expand it a bit for a real “high dollar shine”. No matter how how well a piece is polished, take it in and out of the showcase, let lots of customers handle it then rub down with a rouge cloth? You’re back to my original shine at best. I haven’t had any complaints about my finish

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What if you are allergic to rouge? Literally.
I can’t touch the stuff or my skin burns like I’ve touched acid. Even reside (when I’ve taught at diff studios) causes a huge reaction.

What do ppl use INSTEAD of rouge?

I’ve been using a white chunk of something that was given to me by a retiring silversmith - may be white Luxi. The guy told me it was a “one and done” compound to be used after tumbling in steel shot. :woman_shrugging:t2:

I recently bought the multi-sample box of Luxi from Rio. Comes with a huge chart - I’ve found that 60% of the colors don’t live up to the promises made on the provided chart tho. And boyyyy do they all leave a black streaky mess :face_with_raised_eyebrow: (which I Dawn off w/a super soft face cleaning cloth.)
No allergies to these little bars though - which is a BIG bonus.

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I am curious.
Is it fire scale or just dirty?

I recently got the Luxi assortment too. I’d heard that one-and-done line, but it definitely sounded suspiciously easy. I’ve been doing a fairly quick three step process using black, blue, and orange, with a good Dawn and soft toothbrush scrub in between. Just black and blue gives a great finish, but putting in a minute or two with the orange really elevates it.

As I’ve learned smithing and tried various polishing methods, I’ve had a few moments of “whoa, this looks almost like the finish on jewelry I see in shops”- except with this Luxi sequence, replace “looks almost like” with IS. I’m not saying the compounds are irrelevant, but it sure seems to me like the progression and process are just as critical if not more.

it was just goop from rouge getting caught in between the links of a curb chain I made.

I use hard, stiff Denture brushes from the big box and have absolutely no problems with scratching on Sterling.