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Pnp flim


#1

Hello, can anyone give me the idiots guide to using blue Pnp film. I
do enamelling on silver and I bought some film to play with but there
are no instructions with it. Has anyone out there used it . Thanks,
yours hopefully, Ruth.


#2

The PNP film is used as a resist in etching—usually on copper
with ferric chloride as the mordant. If you plan to etch the silver
you will need to use Ferric nitrate. You can get complete detailed
instructions on using PNP by checking out the PressNPeel website.
Also there is an excellent article on PNP, written by Kay Polchak
–hope i got the spelling of her name correct— in one of the back
issues of Lapidary Journal. In addition you will find
much useful in the Orchid Archives. Alma


#3
Ruth, I wrote this set of instructions. Bill 

Graphics can be produced by hand or computer. The original graphic
is printed on the PnP acetate base in a thermal copier or laser
printer (inkjet and bubblejet printers will not work). The image is
printed or copied onto the dull side (emulsion) of the PnP Blue
film. The mask will be the dark image. It is the black pigment that
absorbs the heat and transfers to your work. Note that the image
will be reversed when it is transferred. Cut the image out of the
PnP leaving at least 1/4 inch border.

Metal surfaces work best if they have a scratch brushed surface.
Scotch Brite or pumice are excellent. Water should sheet off the
metal when it is clean. If water beads it means the surface is
still dirty or oily. The sheet should be flat to help with the
transfer of heat.

Place your PnP image face or dull side down on the prepared metal.
Scotch tape can be used to hold the metal and the image in place. A
light cloth or piece of paper can be used over the piece to
alleviate friction.

Note: You can help the heat transfer process along by using a plate
of heated metal as your ironing board. You can preheat a heavy
steel plate in a kiln or it can be placed on a hot plate and allowed
to get hot to the touch. This is especially helpful for larger
images.

The brass heat control on our Transfer Iron should be turned
clockwise 1/2 to 3/4 of it’s travel. A clothes iron should be set
at 225-250=9A F. That is usually between the “acrylic” and
"polyester" settings.

The time it will take will vary depending on the size and thickness
of the piece. You may note a slight change in the color of the PnP
as the image transfers. If the clear backing begins to wrinkle up
at the edges you may be working too hot. Do not use steam.

Allow the metal to cool or quench in cool water. Any “fills” inside
of letters or between lines that have accidentally transferred can
be lifted off with adhesive tape.

The metal is now ready for anodizing or acid etching. Please take
all safety precautions. Wear the proper protective clothing and
provide for adequate ventilation.

The mask may be removed with paint thinner or other solvents. Be
careful not to scratch an anodized surface.