Photography and Juried Shows

I used to use Veritone gradient backgrounds and other similar
materials in my commercial work. It’s expensive and still must be
properly and separately lit for BEST results.

I find it much easier and a lit more flexible to photograph the
piece on a piece of non-glare glass supported a foot or so above a
white background. Foam board is great. Light the foam board
separately, overexposed. This creates a background in digital that
is a snap to separate from the jewelry.

At that point, you can create unlimited types of backgrounds for your
piece, complete with watermarked logo or signature if desired. You
can create libraries of backgrounds, if you wish. And you can insure
that, in a series of pieces, each background is identical.

Another way to create an easy-to-remove or replace background is to
shoot the jewelry on a piece of white translucent plastic like what
is used to inspect transparencies (slides) or X-ray. A light table,
if you will. Again, light it so it is overexposed and pure white; it
will be easy to drop out in Photoshop T. If you use this method, you
must use a very high quality coated lens, because flare from the lit
plastic can degrade the image in unexpected ways. This is much more
a problem in digital than film, bit, either way, must be dealt with.

If you wish to shoot film, or do not want to separate out
backgrounds, simply use a white piece of paper under the non-glare
glass (a foot or so under). Light it separately with a flood or wide
spot light. Judicious placement of the light will create an
adjustable gradient from near white to gray or black.

Wayne Emery

Wayne,

First off, let me say that a book such as the one you suggest would
likely be well received in the industry. If you can extend it to
include photography of GLASS, it would have a much larger potential
target audience. As many of us know, jewelry and glass are the two
toughest craft objects to photograph and share many of the same
challenges.

To the issue of slides, there are still many shows (particularly
smaller “boutique” shows) that require slides. While I work totally
digital at this point, for those shows I simply prepare my digital
images at high resolution (my source images) and the correct aspect
ratio, then send them to one of the slide studios (I like
www.iprintfromhome.com). In a day or two, I have good quality slides
to send to the show.

I will celebrate the day when I no longer have to do that because
all of the shows accept digital images. My guess is that within 5
years, we’ll be there.

So to say that “this sort of manipulation can’t be achieved on
slides” is actually not true. It can’t be done with film-original
slides, but for a show that requires slides, I can achieve the same
quality that I have with digital submissions. I’m just using the
digital step as a pre-press step.

Lark Books, interestingly, will accept digital images, but only if
they have NOT had any editing steps done in Photoshop or any other
editing program. They will also accept slides. So that means that if
I’m submitting digitally to them, I must take the “perfect picture”
the first time digitally… no retouching, no color correction, no
airbrushing out the cat hair that mysteriously appeared in the corner
of the background. That’s a pretty high bar!

One other thing I would STRONGLY suggest to everyone… go to a
local high school or community college’s art department and project
your images (slides or digital) to preview them. See what they really
look like when projected at 3’ or 4’ size. You may be shocked, both
at the technical aspects of the work and at the quality of the image.
Until you see it that size, you haven’t REALLY seen it. And you
haven’t seen it the way the jury will see it. Do that a few times
until you get your setup right and start knowing what to look for.

Enjoy!
Karen Goeller
No Limitations Designs
Hand-made, one-of-a-kind jewelry
www.nolimitations.com

The unfortunate statement made by some one above (I know it didn't
originate with YOU, Carla) is absolutely and fundamentally
incorrect. In that regard, the LARK folks are all wet, sorry. 

But it’s true, Lark does want the images untouched. So they can do
any Photoshop work themselves.

And even better option is to send them a photographic transparency.

“Real” photographs taken by someone with skill do not need “re-
touching,” if your digital photography skills are up to par, your
images should not need any re-touching.

Furthermore, if you’re doing all this Photoshop work, you’re now
spending at least double the time on your pictures.

I don’t have that kind of time. I want to do it right the first
time.

At most, I sometimes have to color correct. This is because I am not
using the right lights. If I replaced my lights, the yellowish cast
would go away.

I may not have to because my new camera is so awesome, it color
corrects itself.

I go to my photography booth, which is always set up, I shoot the
jewelry, go to the computer, download the picture, and boom! I’m
done. I can put it/them on CD and mail off to a show, upload to
wherever.

Elaine
http://www.CreativeTextureTools.com
Hard to Find Tools for Metal Clay

Wayne, I have been trying to drop the background from my digital
photos with Photoshop 7 and am having a heck of a time! Do you use
the extraction process? I have too much detail to highlight, I know
there is an easier way to drop the background but cannot seem to
find it. (I did it a few years ago and forgot how! ) A DVD would be
great, but I’m anxious now. I bought the Photo Studio in a box that
Elaine was talking about but am unhappy with the background. I
previously shot on non glare glass although I didn’t expose the
background as you suggested. I could try that too. Currently I am one
unhappy photographer. Good thing I love making jewelry!

Lisa Hawthorne
http://www.lisahawthorne.com

"Real" photographs taken by someone with skill do not need "re-
touching," if your digital photography skills are up to par, your
images should not need any re-touching. 

Sorry Elaine this is just plain wrong. Any method of capturing an
image whether film or CCD or CMOS needs to be adjusted to truly
capture the “real” image. Films are not linear they capture
different colors with varying accuracy just like digital imaging
systems. If film shot by “someone with skill” did not need retouching
Adobe would have not sold about 75% of the volume of the Photoshop
package that they have. All digital image editing has done is made it
much less costly and given the retoucher a wider array of tools. I
was taught the basics of many of the manual image editing skills back
in the early 70’s when I was in school as a commercial art and
advertising major. It was a real pain in the a** back then but still
had to be done to get correct images.

James Binnion
@James_Binnion
James Binnion Metal Arts

360-756-6550

"Real" photographs taken by someone with skill do not need "re-
touching," if your digital photography skills are up to par, your
images should not need any re-touching. 

With over thirty yeas of hands on experience in color reproduction
for the graphic arts/printing industry, I think it might be well for
you to get a little more insight about professional photography
requirements. (I can assure you that I have ample professional
qualifications to say this.)

To assert that one can snap a picture, regardless how fine the
camera, and end up with results consistent with the requirements for
“prime time” is about the same as saying one can make a piece of
jewelry flawlessly, ready to sell each and and every time. (How I
wish I could do that too!)

I can believe that for your own needs you may not have a desire to
spend anything more than a simple click… For the rest who strive for
excellence in their photos, Photoshop is a fact of life. Good
photography is not a push button, single click process any more than
creating fine jewelry is. Good photography requires skill and
knowledge…and Photoshop.

Regards,
j

J Collier
Small Scale Metalsmith

Hi Lisa,

I went from PS 5.0 to CS2, so I’m not sure of the menus in PS7. I
sometimes use Vertus, a stand-alone maskig tool which is a great but
expensive alternative to the masking tools in PS. However, the Magic
Wand tool works very well on jewelry, because jewelry doesn’t have
weird outlines like hair or branches (hopefully). BUT…one must
make the photo in such a way that the jewelry has no edges that
merge with the background, which happens when there are shadows of
the same tonality as the background. The shadow then merges with the
piece and the background, making it tough to use the tool.

So, for me, the easiest answer is to make a photograph where there
are no shadow merges, which I do by either separately lighting the
white background, or by placing the piece on or above a frosted
white background lit from behind. This requires you to shoot your
piece on non-glare glass, about a foot or more above your
background. Below the background (which can be a piece of glass with
white paper on it) you place a floodlight that will light the
background enough to wipe out any shadows (there are hardly ever
any) on the non-glare glass on which your piece rests. The color of
the background is not relevant, it is going to be destroyed. This
will make nice clean “edges” in your image, which are easy to define
with the Magic Wand tool.

It’s a hassle to make a stand that allows this sort of set-up, but,
once done is done and will make shooting a breeze. If you have
enough room, making a “background” that is a yard square and two
feet below your non-glare glass also allows you to separately light
any colored paper to make your on gradients. Although, in general, I
reserve that set up for placing objects in the background which will
be out of focus in the image. Not good for juries, but often nice
for illustration in magazines.

Does that help?

Wayne

Greetings:

In regards to the Lark dictum about ‘thou shall not photoshop’: they
will take photoshopped files, but only if you really know what
you’re doing.

I say this as someone who’s been printed in one of their books, with
photoshopped files. They knew they were photoshopped: I sent them
both flattened Tiffs, and the full PSD files. They even used my
clipping mask to strip out the background. (Joanna Goldberg’s The
Art & Craft of Making Jewelry
Pages 59 & 136. Brian Meek. The brooch
on page 59 is the one where they used my clipping mask to break it
out of the background.) My tweaks were color and background related,
I didn’t mess with the details of the jewelry itself. Dumping a
background is one thing, creating an entirely artificial piece is
something else.

I contacted them before I submitted the images, because as a vaguely
serious photographer, everything I shoot is in raw format. It has
to be tweaked, at least a little, to get it into a format that’s
useable.

What they were concerned about was well meaning, but clueless
attempts to ‘improve’ the images. I’ve been doing jewelry photography
and four-color prepress for about 13 years now, and believe me when I
say that there’s nothing I dread more than trying to salvage
something useable from photos that ‘designers’ have sent me to try to
print on a four-color press. Four-color offset printing is a very
weird game, and has its own rules. It’s nothing like printing to a 6
(or more) color ink-jet printer, or a slide recorder. It has a
totally different color gamut for one thing, so colors that look
perfectly punchy on your nice uncalibrated Dell monitor will turn to
mud when printed with ink on paper. Every color 'correction’
potentially degrades the image in ways that cannot be recovered, and
unless you know how to set up files for offset printing, it’s likely
that your idea of ‘right’ will have nothing to do with what the image
data needs to be to actually print anywhere close to what you wanted.
Trying to pull an image back from what the designer did in trying to
make it look right (to him, on his monitor) is a process that is a
famous black hole for time. (The other famous disaster is web photos.
A 72DPI image that looks just right on your monitor is only big
enough for a postage stamp at press quality resolutions.

Trying to make something useful out of teeny little JPG’s has caused
me to tear my hair out more than once.) (While I’m thinking about it:
JPG files throw away image data. (that’s how they get so small) Not a
big deal…unless you’re trying to print for real, and someone has
helpfully sent you a very heavily compressed JPG. Yet another cause
of wailing and gnashing of teeth among the prepress geeks.)

Lark’s main concern was not to get stuck with any beautiful time
sinks. Prepress time is expensive. ($200+/hr.) They also print in
asia somewhere. (Hong Kong, I think) Asian ink formulations and
prepress standards are different. Even if you know what you’re doing
for 4C printing here in the states, you might not get it right when
they go to print in HK. The simplest and easiest thing to do to head
off this problem (from Lark’s point of view) is to say “NO!”. I
contacted them well before the ‘slides’ were due, explained my
dilemma (I don’t have any non-PS’d images) and listed my
qualifications. They were just fine with it, once they knew I had
something faintly resembling a clue about how to set up the files
for 4C printing.

I’ll share a bit of wisdom, and a book I’ve just discovered. I
learned to shoot jewelry in art school getting my BFA, back when it
all really was done on slides, in the camera. Then I discovered
Photoshop. And my slides went to hell. I started propping things up
on lens caps, and whatnot, and generally being horribly sloppy. The
theory being “I’ll just fix it in photoshop”…

Right. Lots of time wasted, and many shots very difficult to
salvage because of reflections of the scrap I used to prop things up
with.

Turns out it really is better to shoot it at least half way right
in the first place. An interesting new book I’ve discovered on that
very topic is called “Preventative Photoshop: Take the best digital
photos now for better images later”, by Douglas Ford Rea. Has a very
useful chapter about using Macbeth cards and color correcting based
on known value targets. Because despite having a really smart camera,
they’re still idiots. I should know, I have a very smart, very well
meaning DSLR that gets the color balance right…when shooting the
sorts of scenes that normal people shoot. For jewelry photos? No. It
tries, and generally isn’t half bad, but it isn’t good enough for
print. (That’s even with custom grey balancing at the beginning of
every shoot.) To get the colors where they need to be, you must
photoshop. Even with an expensive (very) camera. Minute color casts
that would have been completely unremarkable in the days of film are
now totally unacceptable. The fact that we can fix things has
morphed into the dictum that we must fix everything, at least in
the marketing/printing world. (My camera always gets the color
balance better than my old film/light combos. But that’s not even
close to good enough these days.)

Speaking as someone who’s been paying the rent for the past few
years doing graphics (and teaching) rather than much jewelry, every
image that makes it to print, almost without exception, has been
tweaked in photoshop to some extent. (I would say every image, but
I’m sure that there must have been at least one, somewhere, in the
past few years that wasn’t. But I haven’t seen it.)

Someone else in this thread asked about how to break the image loose
from the background. I normally use the quick mask tool. (‘q’ on the
keyboard) it lets you ‘paint’ a mask to select whatever you want. I
generally figure I’m smarter than the computer about what is – and
isn’t – part of the image that I want. Painting it directly saves
getting into artistic debates with photoshop’s automatic tools. It’s
a little slower, but not that much, once you get used to it.

For whatever that all’s worth.
Regards,
Brian Meek.

Good Day!

A lot has been said about jurying and taking photos. I found this
reference to be very helpful. I’m still working on my photography,
but this site helped me tremendously. It talks about photographing
jewelry, glass, glass beads, silver, gems, etc. Other parts of the
site sell commercial products, but I am not associated with them once
so ever and in fact I haven’t purchased from them. They mention a
“sparkle light”, which is just a light strategically used to get a
gem to sparkle. My jewelry shots are looking much better (for web
anyway), but I need to work on my rainbow titanium jewelry/pieces
because it is very sparkly and I just can’t seem to capture all the
sparkle and subtle hues in photos. I can afford to get the jury
shots, but obviously for every day web sales, this isn’t practical.
My biggest issue is that my jewelry photos lack the “romance” of the
professional shots.

Any way, take a look. I hope you find it helpful in taking better
photos. Product photography - how to improve your product photos

Holly Gage

Sorry Elaine this is just plain wrong. Any method of capturing an
image whether film or CCD or CMOS needs to be adjusted to truly
capture the "real" image. 

You misunderstood me. I am not taking about prepping images for
print, or whatever it is you’re talking about.

Here is my point: A skilled photographer takes an image of my jewelry
using an SLR with SLIDE FILM in it.

The film is developed. I have a box of slides. I take them out, look
at them, they are perfect.

They do not need Photoshop before I put them in the slide carousel.

See? Images should be perfect right out of the camera, whether that
camera is digital or film. It is illogical to say, let’s all take
pictures which we know are inadequate, and then spend an hour per
picture fixing them on the computer.

That is my point. I am saying time is better spent developing
photography skills rather than computer skills, so that one can do
the job right the first time.

Either that, or pay a professional photographer.

Elaine
http://www.CreativeTextureTools.com
Hard to Find Tools for Metal Clay

Thank you, Brian Meek, for an erudite, experienced, and
well-presented discussion on the ubiquitous need for PhotoShop.

Hopefully, this will not be construed by those who are uneducated
about photo reproduction, either in print or on the Web, as being
argumentative. Posts such as yours offer the opportunity to expand
our knowledge and really ARE “pearls of great price”.

Having been involved in the art and craft of photography for over 40
years, I share your frustration with well-intentioned folks who are
trying to help but really are clueless about this craft, much as I
am clueless and in awe at some of the work I see from artists here
on Orchid.

Here in my 7th decade I continue to be convinced that what I don’t
know would fill vast libraries.

Wayne

I’ve been following this thread with a great deal of interest, and
have read numerous excellent tips. I have just sent off my first
submission to a juried exhibition. My photography is not good enough
so I had my pieces professionally photographed. After looking at
various sites showing submitted works, I’m now wondering if I may
have made the wrong choice in having my necklaces photographed on a
bust. They are very ‘wholesome’ colourful woven pieces, and I felt
they look much more stunning on a bust than laying flat. Would you
think that having them photographed on a bust may be a deterrent to a
judging panel. The bust is black as this seemed to make the pieces
‘pop’.

Appreciate your opinions, and thanks for all the great advice so
far!

Lorraine Allan
G&S Lampwork
www.glassandsplinters.com.au

Elaine.

Images should be perfect right out of the camera, whether 
that camera is digital or film. It is illogical to say, let's all
take pictures which we know are inadequate, and then spend an hour
per picture fixing them on the computer 

All due respect…you are still wrong about this. <>

Digital is NOT handled the same way as film nor is it created the
same way. This is NOT a matter of opinion, it is a matter of
technical fact. Do you at all understand what constitutes a digital
image as captured by a sensor? It is not remotely like any film
image, and, in order to be even made visible needs to have some
algorithms applied to lighten it, change saturation, sharpen it,
change Gamma, etc. This is done by the camera manufacturers so that
when you look at the viewing screen, what you see is at least
recognizable.

Those professionals who shoot in RAW format (which is
non-standardized) MUST apply our own correction images via an image
manipulation program. The “Gold Standard” is PhotoShop.

There is NO digital camera on this planet that is capable of
creating an image that is the equivalent of any sort of film
STRAIGHT FROM THE SENSOR. And STRAIGHT FROM THE SENSOR is the method
of choice for finer work, as it allows the full range and efficacy
of PS tools to be applied. It’s fast and easy for the trained
person, and the result will usually make the slide option look,
well, amateurish. In FACT, most professionals will shoot jewelry on
a large or medium format camera with a digital back; or they will
convert to slides from digital. The best of “slide” work is done by
scanning the original slide, converting it to high res digital,
manipulating the image, then converting back to slide. This level of
workmanship is usually not necessary for juried shows, because the
viewers are using arcane equipment to view the slides…the viewing
conditions are non-standard in and of themselves. I’ve seen folks
who claim to be accomplished look at slides with weak bulbs on
crappy screens and harp about the images.

Sorry, you are way off base on this.

Wayne

Do you think there is a market for a CD, DVD, or book addressing
only fine photography for jewelry, including the necessary Photshop
manipulation procedures? 

Yes and yes again! If you can get into the dirty details with a
clarity often absent from manuals and tutorials, you would have a
winner!

Allan Mason

Hi Holly,

I looked at your website - you have very beautiful jewelry! I think
your pictures are very good also, but on my monitor they are quite
dark. (It may be my monitor) - I have noticed when I work on my
pictures in photo shop I brighten them until I think they are just
right and then when I put them up on my pages they appear a lot
darker. So I go back to P S and brighten them some more. If anyone
wants to give me any feedback - I’d like to know if others are
seeing what I see.

Thanks for sharing the link to the how to site and for sharing the
link to your beautiful jewelry.

Jan McClellan
www.designjewel.com

Get semi-pro flashes, I used to think these were hella expensive,
and some of them are, but ones found at skaeser.com, specifically
the BY-160 is an AMAZING flash. Priced at $80 each, they are worth
every penny. 

Pat, thanks for the great tips! These lights sound very intriguing.
How, exactly, do you use them? With an umbrella? Soft Box? Are they
triggered from the camera, or just on/off?

The one problem I see with a flash is you can’t adust the light by
looking at the LCD while moving things around. My 2 1/2" screen gives
a pretty good indicator of what the shot will look like.

Allan Mason

Thanks Holly for the link.

I tend to need visual with photoshop instructions and this seems to
do it nicely. I am a little IT challenged and need to see things
logically before it makes sense to me. Once I get it I am OK with it
as long as I don’t take too long between using my new found
knowledge.

I also find Picasa free download from google, a useful program for
lightening up images and doing minor adjustments to your images
especially under the tuning tab, color temperature is great for
getting the color of your gold or silver just right and helps heaps
in opal photo’s also.

Thanks, Christine in the Ridge where we had a few drops of rain last
night but it looks like it will be a hot summer coming up.

Hi Elaine: (et ali)

Here is my point: A skilled photographer takes an image of my
jewelry using an SLR with SLIDE FILM in it. The film is developed. I
have a box of slides. I take them out, look at them, they are
perfect. They do not need Photoshop before I put them in the slide
carousel. See? Images should be perfect right out of the camera,
whether that camera is digital or film. It is illogical to say,
let's all take pictures which we know are inadequate, and then
spend an hour per picture fixing them on the computer. 

The point I’ve been trying to make is that the image on the slide
isn’t perfect when it comes out of the camera. It can’t be. Even on
the best slide film, with the best photographer on earth, it’s still
not even close to good enough for any use other than loading it into
a slide carousel, and projecting it on a wall. In terms of layout and
composition, it may be great, but in terms of image quality, it’s
just a starting place. If you want to actually do anything with it
besides project that one, singular piece of film on a screen, you
have to convert it to digital somehow. If you want to print it in any
way at all, it has to be digital. If you want to put it on your
website, it has to be digital. If you want to dupe it, it’d better
be digital. (the digital slide copy systems are much better than
the old optical rigs, but the very first thing they do is…digitize
the input slide. They’re good, but they don’t always get it right.
It’s better to start with a properly corrected file, and drive the
recorder directly, rather than relying on what it thinks your image
should look like.) Getting a ‘photographic’ print of the slide? No.
That’s digital too these days. Look close, it’s probably even an
ink-jet print. Unless you’re souping it yourself, in your own
darkroom, by hand, chances are good that anything you do with that
image besides look at that one original slide is going to be
happening digitally. (Having souped color prints myself, by hand, I
jumped on the photoshop bandwagon as soon as I knew it existed. You
think Photoshop’s hard? Try color enlarging.)

The fact that photoshop lets us fix just about anything has touched
off a sort of ‘image inflation’. Little things like teeny little bits
of dust, or minute color color casts that nobody would have ever
noticed 10-15 years ago now stand out like giant neon signs. So they
must be fixed. For example: I used to shoot my ‘serious’ stuff on
very high-end slide film, with a pro SLR, and properly balanced
lights. (at midnight, under a new moon, after having thrown sterling
lemel over my left shoulder, while reciting from Theophilus.) A few
years back, I had all the prime images from those sessions scanned
by a pro lab. In analyzing those images now, even they have color
casts. Very, very small ones, but much more than I’d tolerate in a
final image now. I never noticed them at the time.

Likewise dust, blown highlights, and other horrors that can be
chalked off to me not really knowing what I was doing. Those slides
were still good enough to get me into grad school. Looking at them
now, they’re positively embarrassing, but I can remember being
pleased with how good they looked at the time. The standards have
gone sky high since then.

In terms of doing anything with an image, slide film has a
tremendous dynamic range, far greater than any output system I know
anything about. So if you’re going to do anything other than project
that piece of film on a wall, it’s going to get reduced in range,
somewhere, somehow. Personally, I’d rather that I be the one who
decides what parts of the range get traded away, and why. Equally,
all output systems are not created equal. Depending on what I’m
doing, and why, I may need to tweak up several different versions of
an image, one for each target media. The source image may have been
great, but it can’t be right for the web, a 4C sales slick, and a
backlit booth display, all at once. Back during the days of film, we
couldn’t really tweak it, so we ignored the issue, and made the best
of what we couldn’t change.

Even then (and still) you can ‘mess’ with your image in the camera.
All slide films are not created equal. For example: I originally
started shooting on Kodachrome 160T, which was a film that was
designed to give a fairly ‘flat’ and even color rendition. (under
tungsten lights) Then I discovered Fuji Velvia. And the colors
exploded. Velvia was a daylight film that was designed to really
saturate the colors. It wasn’t (quite) over the edge into un-
realistic super saturation, but my god did the colors pop. Which one
was ‘perfect’ right out of the camera?? They’re both optical,
untouched by photoshop, but they gave vastly different results.

Elaine: In re-reading this, and looking at your responses to other
messages in the thread, I think we’re talking about different
aspects of the image, and making that image ‘right’.

I’m talking (at some length, I’m afraid) about the technical aspects
of getting an image to appear pleasing when displayed across a
variety of media. Fidelity to the ‘real’ piece is of absolutely no
concern to me when I’m working in that world. I’ll quite cheerfully
punch the color saturation through the roof for marketing pieces. The
client wants to grab your attention with the image. They care not at
all if the image is an ‘accurate’ representation of a physical object
that you’ll never see. (what color -exactly- is the hope diamond
anyway? )

Meanwhile, I think you’re talking about issues of layout, lighting
and composition, and how the object itself relates to the image
frame, correct?

In that sense, it is possible to have a perfectly fine image,
straight out of the camera. From my point of view, that’s just the
start of the process of making a final image. It’s sort of like
casting: you can have a perfectly fine piece once you cut off the
sprues, but you’ll have a much better piece if you polish it
afterwards.

Regards,
Brian.

Hi Allan,

The one problem I see with a flash is you can't adust the light by
looking at the LCD while moving things around. My 2 1/2" screen
gives a pretty good indicator of what the shot will look like. 

The LCD should never be used to adjust lighting anyway. It might be
a rough guide, at best, but if you rely on it for final output, you
may be unhappily surprised. On many cameras, the brightness level of
the viewing screen can be altered easily, for ease of viewing under
different lighting conditions.

There are a number of ways to properly establish exposure with
flash, the most direct being a flash meter, properly used. Their
expense would preclude their use for most of this group, however.

Many good flash units have variable power output, so it is a very
simple matter to set your aperture (small, usually) and make a test
exposure. This is best done with the camera “tethered” to your work
monitor (which has been calibrated, hopefully) so that you can judge
when you have created an acceptable exposure (assuming you know that
in digital, exposure is judged much like it is for transparency
(“slides”) film. Proper or acceptable exposure is attained when you
are holding “adequate” detail in the highlight areas of your image.
Over-exposure cannot be tolerated in digital.

Desired detail in the shadows is controlled by adjustments to the
contrast range of the lighting, not by exposure. Contrast range is
adjusted by altering the quality of the light, not the quantity, by
the use of umbrellas, diffusion screens, soft boxes, etc.

Anyway, one of the great advantages of working with digital is that
we can judge our flash exposure and contrast range by the mere click
of the shutter. If your image appears underexposed, either turn up
the power on your variable-power flash unit or units or move the
flash closer to the subject and try again. It’s quick and easy, if
not very technical. If anyone’s interested, I could post a bit about
the use of diffusion materials to alter contrast range. It’s easy,
visual and educational, and it could be open to input from the many
others here who are accomplished photographers. I might need a few
days, as I am buried in my USB camera project, but I’m happy to add
if anyone is interested. Exposure vs control of contrast range seems
to be a problem out there, as is using ths see-through light tents
with double lights, causing double shadows…yech!

Wayne

Even on the best slide film, with the best photographer on earth,
it's still not even close to good enough for any use other than
loading it into a slide carousel, and projecting it on a wall. In
terms of layout and composition, it may be great, but in terms of
image quality, it's just a starting place. If you want to actually
do anything with it besides project that one, singular piece of
film on a screen, 

That was my point. That’s all I was saying, it should be good enough
to project on a screen.

My point still stands – the composition, the color – should still
be good coming right out of the camera. If you have to do some
digital manipulation fine, but the shot itself should be adequate.
Most of what you need should be accomplished in reality not in
computer-land. Because reality is a good thing and it’s faster.

It’s terrific that some of you know so much about pre-press printing
and whatever, great, but most of us are just trying to make some
jewelry, shoot documentary shots of it before it leaves the studio.

Elaine: In re-reading this, and looking at your responses to other
messages in the thread, I think we're talking about different
aspects of the image, and making that image 'right'. 

You got it! : ) Thanks for catching on.

Elaine
http://www.CreativeTextureTools.com
Hard to Find Tools for Metal Clay