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Pepe 90 mm flat rolling mill handle appears loose

loose handle of the 90 mm flat Pepe rolling mill…works well but the handle does not fit tighly…lots os play/sway. thanks

I don’t think the handle insets deep enougn onto the shaft. there is a gap of close to of 1/4 to 3/8 inches. may be this is the wrong handle for the 90 mmflat Pepe rolling mill-methinks

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I found a picture of a Pepe 90 mm flat mill and it looks like there is some space between the body of the reduction gear and the base of the handle. From time to time my Durston 130 handle will get loose and I have to tighten the set screw. I suspect that it is just standard practice. This may also be true for the Pepe mill or any mill. Good luck…Rob

From photos of the Pepe 187.20A on the net, with the handle removed, the shaft is round and the handle is secured by a key in a keyway. So remove the handle and there should be a groove in it to allow it to pass the key and there should be a key in the shaft. The set screw is a hex head screw that goes into the end of the handle. All this is covered on the Pepe website in a video, the last one on this page:
[https://pepetools.com/collections/manual-combo-wire-sheet-manual-rolling-mills/products/90mm-flat-ultra-mill-1]
The bit about the handle is at 4:40 in the video. I’m suspecting that you have a key, otherwise the handle wouldn’t engage and turn the rollers, but you don’t have a hex head set screw to tighten the handle. The simple fix would be to find out what hex head screw fits and get one at the local Home Depot or such. You could inquire at Pepe or just take the roller off and match it to a screw at the store. QED, I think. Doubtful that you have the wrong handle. HTH, -royjohn

thanks for the suggestion will go to thte store and look at their mills. th store has been closed for some time due to the Corona virus. here in Vancouver our Medical officer has hinted to opening some facilities…thanks for the idea thought.

I don’t think you need to go to the store and wait until it opens. You may be able to see the shaft of the mill through the hole in the end of the handle when you put the handle on. You can tap it with a hammer to make sure it is on tight. Or you could measure the depth of the hole in the handle and put it on the shaft, make a pencil mark on the shaft and then take the handle off and measure from the mark to the end of the shaft. Both distances should be the same. In practice you just need to put the screw into the hole and tighten it…the screw should be long enough to reach the threads in the hole and the screw should pull the handle tight onto the shaft until the end of the shaft contacts the end of the hole in the handle. As I said, if you don’t have the hex head screw mentioned in the video, you need to get one from Pepe or take your roller to a hardware dept somewhere and get something that fits. It will be a standard size, probably metric. Then also be sure that you do have a key in the keyway or your handle will just slip and turn in the hole. Sorry if I have gone on too long, but you don’t seem to have understood. Watch the video, it is very clear and shows these parts and how they assemble. HTH, -royjohn

The type of connection between the input shaft and the handle of a rolling mill has some tolerance. This is needed so that you can easily remove the handle. It also means that it can become loose with use. This is especially true since it appears from the pictures posted that you can load this connection such that it will cause some movement in the connection each time that you use it. This would be especially true if you hold the end of the handle when you turn it. Since you probably aren’t torquing the threaded fastener that holds everything together such that its tensional forces remain constant, this will cause it to loosen. Per royjogn, make sure that the key is installed, the handle completely engages the key, the threaded fastener is tight and get on with rolling. If you find parts missing or interference with the handle seating correctly, get ahold of whomever sold you the mill and explain what you think is wrong. Otherwise, tighten the threaded fastener on a regular basis. Good luck…Rob

thanks for the advice

mvma1,

To all that has been said I will add just two other bits of advice.
Check your keyway and your key for any possible damage/wear and tear. You may find either has been chipped or worn which will cause sloppiness/slippage between the handle and the shaft. This is rare, but I had a keyway chip out on the shaft of a mill just once. That was not a good day as it required a fair amount of maintenance on my part. If you have a worn key, that part can be replaced with some steel rod stock of the same dimension as the original key. All the keyways and keys I have seen in mills are for square material. Measure the keyway with a digital caliper and then find some square steel stock that will fit without any sloppiness, cut a piece the right length, re-attach the handle, and Bob’s your uncle as the Brit’s would say.

The other bit of advice I would give you is this: since your vendor of the mill is currently closed due to covid concerns, just call Pepe direct and ask any question you can’t answer for yourself from viewing the video. I have found they are amazingly helpful. pepetools.com
Their HQ is in Oklahoma City, OK, so I think they are on central time.

Good luck with your mill,
Mike Campbell,
The Designer’s Bench

Your Uncle Bob may not know that steel rod stock is usually not hardened, which your key should be…may work well, may not…lots of hardwares used to carry various standard dimension keys, if you have a caliper or mike to measure, you can prolly buy a key to fit…just sayin’…-royjohn

I enailed them and never heard back…but on the issue of the shear pin on my pepe 90 mm flat rolling milll they were quite helpful even sending for free six shear pins at no cost. my handle is abnormally loose au contraire to my Cavallin rolling mill. just saying