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Pave [1 bead for 3 diamonds]

Hi all, I found a ring that large beads hold 3 diamonds around each.

I tried to set the simular pave method, but failed. Does anyone let me
know how I can make such pave settings?

Thank you,
Takashi Tomoeda

WELL Takashi! It isn’t what it seems to be. Its ONLY 2 beads, but
pushed over/ secured with two beads ONLY. But secured from the “top
left to the bottom right” method. very nicely done, anyway! all of the
diamonds should be “size graded” for this style of setting. After the
securing of the stones, the setter pushes the beads down with his
"bead burnisher"! this little tool, rounds off the top of the bead
and pushes it down on to the stone. So Takashi, seeing is never really
what it seems to be! Some companies are now doing the “setting in wax”!
it saves precious time and gives a more uniform appearance, and is far
cheaper in the setting fees! gerry, the cyber-setter!


Some companies are now doing the "setting in wax"! it saves precious
time and gives a more uniform appearance, and is far cheaper in the
setting fees 

Would you let me know the above method more precisely?

Takashi Tomoeda

Hello Takashi I’ll be more than happy to help you, but where? oh well,
I’ll try and let you know what some of the jewellery trade over here
are doing to reduce the setting charges / fees. I’m not too sure just
where you want the help, in the wax designing or at the actual setting
of the stones into the wax? First of all the regular shop rates for
setting stones into the wax is only .10 - .15 cts “Canadian” for the
labour, against $1.50 - $3.00 for gold setting fees depending on the
style, channel or pave’, etc’s…:>? Your model-maker MUST know how to
arrange the beads around the hole for setting of the pave’d stones. It
is very different than what is generally called pave or claw work. The
actual wax pave claw is just a little knob of wax formed around the
hole and with in this "psuedo-clawed knob is just where the stone will
be set. It is almost like a very small claw. The wax that is used is
called “Aqua Wax” and has a ‘memory’ that when it is opened up to
take the stone, it remebers and returns to the original position ! All
it takes is to push the stone into the little opening and thats it!
Simple,eh? You can use Princess shaped c.z’s or genuine round stones
in this wax setting procedure. I used to work for a company here in
Toronto that had about 15 woman setting these rings and with 50 - 100
stones in each ring. All they did was “wax here and wax there”, at
times this casting department completed about 25-30 flasks and a total
of about 4 k-5k rings a day, Yes,…4,000-5,000 at the height of the
jewellery season! so with a good weeks work they could get out from
the casting process all of these rings in about 3-4 days
finished.Start to finish! …now its a bit slower! You could never
produce all of these rings by hand, no two rings would look the same,
and the setting fees would be so astronomical! So why bother,eh? the
total costs! production output would be horrendously slow. A whole
different regimen of dealing with setting stones into wax has come to
our trade. I hear that there is now a method of setting stones IN
PLATINUM! But the whole trade is improving, but it still takes the
handy-work of a good setter to do the fininsh touches, such a
bright-cutting. even with channel setting and end bezel. A good special
order setter is very much needed, and his/her position in the company
will just never be replaced! (thankfully!) …hope that I’ve been
some help to you,eh? gerry, the cyber-setter!

Gerry, They cast in place CZ’s?How can they take the heat? J Morley
Coyote Ridge Studio

Hi J Morley!..:>) casting in place,eh? Its very easy to cast
stones in wax. The main thing you have to think of is that the gold
temperature at the point of melting and also just before the gold is
’shot out’ is that it must be about 850F and NO HOTTER or the stones
will say “good bye to you”. You can “cast in place”… Rubies,
Sapphires, Diamonds. But again, the other thing is the “darn
cooling”. The rule of thumb is natural cooling, not “forced” or
quenched in a liquid, but just letting the crucible with the gold &
investment cool at there own time. I’ve seen an accident when a whole
days preparation of castings go down the “tubes” by some caster rapid
cool the diamonds and c.z.‘s. “thousands of dollars” of loss! not a
pretty sight. The mgmt. were not happy campers that day! What happens
when the crucible is rapid cooled, is that the diamonds will turn a
’milky white’ and the c.z.'s remain in the gold, but have numerous
fractures all through all of the stones.Then its back to resetting
all of the damaged items. The money saved is then money lost!
ONE MORE THING “J MORLEY” and all on Orchid; Do not let any of the
c.z.'s or genuine stones be touching while being set in the wax, the
reason being is that the shrinkage of the gold will just “squeeze the
guts” out of the stone and another way to say good-bye and start to
look for resetting the stones. Darn, one more thing, only set stones
with little or no inclusions! if there are any inclusions, you might
find that there is more likely a chance for those inclusions to grow
and cause great embarrassment to the owner of the
stones,…“breakage”…:>( If done properly, setting wax can be fun
and profitable to those who take great care in looking after the
basics. but if you intend to rush things…tsk, tsk. don’t bloody
ask! I hope that this little dissertation on “setting in wax” was well
understood… gerry, the cyber-setter!

 They cast in place CZ's? How can they take the heat? 

We recently cast diamonds and created emeralds (Chatam) in place in a
heavy 18 kt yellow ring. Just had to take care in finishing. AJM
magazine had a picture of a piece that Rio Grande I believe did with
a natural emerald cast in place - don’t believe I have the stomach for that!