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Paste solder with regular solder


#1

Dear Ron: I liked your tip about using paste solder in conjunction
with pallions of regular sheet or wire solder. Just one question: You
mention the boric acid and alcohol dip. Could you explain the
sequence? I’m envisioning this as “1: apply paste solder. 2: use dip
and flame off. 3: apply pallions of solder.” Is this what you had in
mind? (the paste solder won’t wash off in the alcohol?) Or are you
painting on the boric acid/alcohol instead of dipping? I’ve always
dipped each component separately, flamed them, allowed them to cool,
them set up the pieces for soldering, being careful not to handle the
points of contact. I’d appreciate tips on doing it an easier way.
Thanks Lin


#2

Dear Lin, Sorry I wasn’t more explicit ! Nonetheless, if you have had
any experience with paste solder, you will have noticed that you
cannot heat it without making it rigid, therefore, the solder
pallions must be applied before flaming off the alcohol/boric acid
flux. The whole idea of the technique is that the adhesive qualities
of the solder paste serve to position and fix the solder pallions.
Happy crafting…Ron at Mills Gem, Los Osos, CA.


#3
I've always  dipped each component separately, flamed them, allowed
them to cool, them set up the pieces for soldering, being careful
not to handle the points of contact. I'd appreciate tips on doing it
an easier way. Thanks Lin 

Hi Lin: I use the same procedure, dipping components first, flaming,
allowing to cool and then assembling. Then I apply liquid flux from
a little plastic squeeze bottle that has a hypodermic needle top. I
only apply the smallest amount possible directly to the joint to be
soldered. Then I flame this slightly (just so it does its bubble trick
and settles down. ) Then while the piece is still warm, I dip my
solder pallions in the same liquid flux (I put a drop of the flux on a
tiny piece of tile to use for dipping the solder pallions) and apply
with tweezers to the joint to be soldered. As the piece is warm, the
flux-dipped pallions stick and stay in place quite nicely. Haven’t
tried the paste solder bit yet, but may give it a try but seems a bit
tricky - paste solder is rather stiff to work with isn’t it?

Kay


#4
Haven't tried the paste solder bit yet, but may give it a try but
seems a bit tricky - paste solder is rather stiff to work with isn't
it? 

Only if it is old Kay. The stuff has a short shelf life. It still
works when it gets stiff but it is difficult to get the correct
distribution and amount when it starts to stiffen up.

A shop help item, the needle on the tube tends to harden up first.
Take a piece of #8/0 saw blade and use it to ream out the needle.

Don


#5

Don, Here’s a trick I’ve used to revive old paste solder, pull the
plunger out of the syringe and add a few drops of Battern’s flux,
stir, and viola. It worked for me.

Dean D Amick