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Palladium & casting in place



You obviously have found the way to make it work. When you’re
looking at casting with another imbedded metal, think of it this
way: If I melted my casting metal in a crucible, would the metal
that I plan to cast around melt if I dropped it into the crucible?

If the metals involved are gold and silver, then the answer is both
yes and no. Sterling silver melts at around 1485F, flows around
1645F., and casts around 1800F. De-ox sterling, however, melts at
1650F, flows at 1725F., and casts between 1850 and 2100F. 18y yellow
melts around 1580F., flows at 1600F., and casts at around 1750F. 18k
Red melts higher, at 1625F. and flows around 1675. 18k palladium
white melts at 1895F. and flows at 1975F. 14k Pink melts at around
1700F., and flows at around 1775F.

You also know that the mass of the metal that you are adding to your
crucible melt will also affect the RATE of the melt. Tiny little
snips of metal will melt faster than a big ingot.

So, casting sterling imbedded in an 18k yellow casting is not a
problem, especially if it is a de-ox silver alloy. Casting tiny 14k
yellow wires imbedded in a heavy de-ox silver cast may not work as
well, but you might get away with a heavy 14y yellow object imbedded
in a light de-ox silver cast. Or maybe yellow puddles on an oxidized
silver surface are what you are hoping to achieve (nitric will etch
silver, but not the gold…;).

Of course, all these temperatures are not “absolute.” These are the
temperatures that Hoover and Strong lists for their alloys. Your
alloys may be different, and you may also prefer different casting
temperatures, based on your equipment, the size of the melt, etc.

Truth is … there are probably fewer metals that can’t be combined
this way than vice versa.

Doug Zaruba

PS: You can also combine more that two metals … think about it.


I think it works because I do not have my flasks as hot as some
people. I’ve learn that a slightly cooler flask gets me a better end
to the proocess. Don’t ask me what temperature - I have no idea at

The melt freezes quite fast and I just don’t think there is time for
the heat to transfer to the metal with the lower melting point.

I admit - I’m not using very fine wire or granules.

And I do and have combined all sorts of metals. Cooper, steel and
bronse at the same time.

Tony Konrath
Key West Florida 33040

 The melt freezes quite fast and I just don't think there is time
for the heat to transfer to the metal with the lower melting point.

I Agree with Tony. The flask temperature when casting most metals ,
platinum, silver, 14k,18k,24k and others is quite cool in comparison
to the metal being cast. Full burnout temp to thoroughly
decontaminate your flask is 1350 oF . This is not hot enough to
affect any metal mentioned and certainly not hot enough to melt them.
When you cast,The casting temperature of the flask for any metal
other than platinum and a few rare metals will range between 650 oF (
very heavy) to 1350 for super fine filigree. So, as a result, your
flask casting temp for 14k gold will be somewhere around 1050 oF for
a medium size piece. In all cases, you should be able to cast around
any ( above mentioned) metal that has been correctly imbedded in the
wax pattern .

It must be noted that in the cases where a failure has been seen in
the process, it can most probably be attributed to the positioning of
the metal part within the wax pattern… more than likely , the part
could move easily within the invested flask after the wax was burned
out… and during the casting process, the metal part went where it
wasn’t supposed to go. Daniel Grandi

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