Back to Ganoksin | FAQ | Contact

Old Hammers and Stakes


#1

If you live in an area with any blacksmiths or machine shop they
will be able to help- It depends on what you are having done as
well. As well look to your local technical schools and see if they
have a machining/fabrication program- student project work is often
NOT fast- but done well (i. e. under supervision of teacher/mentor).

A light crowning or buff-out of nicks and dings. why not do it
yourself. If you are looking to have something re-worked into a new
shape or larger repair- I would suggest a Machine shop.

Cost versus time is your biggest issue- if money rich and time poor
then machine shop/blacksmith. if time rich money poor consider
educating/doing it yourself or trading for services.

If you are ANYWHERE near Kevin Potter at Potter USA I would give him
a call (Southwest USA area)


#2

HOW do I do it myself?


#3

I put up an article on crowning a hammer at my blog- pardon the
emptiness of it- Im only using it as a storage site for other things
and documentation for a bit. I hope it helps. I will try to add some
photos this spring after the shop gets back up and running!

The article was a bit too long I thought to send to the group- I
will hopefully be adding pictures and if you want to leave a comment
or two or advice- please feel free to do so- we are all smarter as a
collective.

And please- negativity is not allowed- This is only my method- not
THE method or the BEST method or the ONLY way to do something. but
it has served me well and I learned from this process- and so am
passing it along in hopes it can serve others as well.

Here is the link: http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/ep824z

Kerri


#4

In one shop where I worked we had a polishing lathe set up outside
the hammering room. At the start of the shift I’d select a hammer to
work with, take it to the lathe, apply some cutting compound to the
8" stitched cloth wheel and could quickly refine the shape or remove
nicks from the face. A second wheel was used with white rough for
polishing. We’d do the same thing with the small anvils when
necessary, they were short pieces of railroad track milled flat. I
don’t remember the exact cutting compound we used but it sure worked
fast.


#5

I regularly sand and polish my anvils, hammers and mandrels on my
rubber expanding lapidary wheel. If there are nicks, dents or deep
scratches, I start with 400 grit wet and then progress to 1200. I
then polish just as I would a piece of silver. If I am just cleaning
up, I only polish. Whatever isn’t on the hammer or anvil, won’t get
on the piece I am working on and need to be polished out. You don’t
need to send these tools out to be worked on unless they need to be
machined. My two cents. Thanks. Rob