New Brownpolymer update

Jewelry Discussion
1

This spring I tried and was successful and made a all organic
compound of Brownpolymer. But the results varied from all the
tester. The product doesn’t respond the same as the original. But I
still would like to here the results. This was developed not to
replace the original just to fill a market need of all Organic mix.
If you where a tester please write and let me know the result or post
it here. Enjen Joes products are working on increasing are product
line to help the jewelry community. We also have a new Hand cleaner
sorry I did not make this, I wished I had. This removes Just about
any thing that gets on your hands including Odors. Use with water its
has pumice and is a little abrasive to the hands but works great.

Thanks Just a update
Thanks Randy
AKA Enjen Joes

2

Hi Randy…

I haven’t used the organic BPM all of that much…

A couple of my tools are coated with it…seems to be working
good…

We’ve had very hot, humid weather of late here in WI…

Although it works as a polish, it doesn’t seem as good as the
regular BPM, in terms of cloth hand buffed finish…?

I confess to not rigourously pursuing its use in comparison to the
standard stuff…

The fan with the bearing I hit with the std BPM is about due for
another application… It’s been working hard of late…and it’s
an
old fan…

I’ll try the organic…

BTW…if it didn’t have the label, would be kinda hard to tell
the diff between the two…

I set up a test for the reg BPM…(I think I posted about this a
while back?)…

Took a couple of India source sterling rings, cleaned and rinsed
with soap and water… And then polished with a Sunshine cloth…

Coated the shanks only, with the reg BPM, let it set for a coupla
hours, and then buffed the shanks off with a clean (old white jocky
shorts) cloth…

SE WI is murder on sterling…especially in hot weather…

To date, whilst the bezel and other uncoated parts of the rings have
turned Wisconsin sterling tarnished (kinda a brownish
tarnish)…the shanks show only a tad of slight cloudiness…which
disappears with a swipe of the jockey shorts…

As a cleaner/polish on ancient coins…it’s kinda inconclusive…

I’ve coated several Alexander the Great silver drachms with it, and
compared to an uncoated one, not much of a discernable
difference… Back then they used better silver for coinage, which
stands up pretty well over time…so maybe that’s why… Heck, the
silver ones survive way better than the bronzes…

My Star Model F 22 still likes it…

I’m waiting for a reason to tap something…

Works good for shooting holes with drills and filing stuff…

Again…most of this is about the regular BPM…

Got a week of vacation coming up…

I find a piece of steel, brighten it up, and set up a comparison
test…

Also try some in some really corroded, but functional padlocks…

And…I’ll put the hand cleaner out to try the next time I get
really grunged up fooling around as I do…

Regards…

Gary W. Bourbonais
A.J.P. (GIA)

P.S. Mentioned it a number of times to me customers… The
industrial market is flooded with “miracle” chemicals…

Didn’t get a flyer take…even for freebies…

3

Randy. not through you as the first sample, but from a friend I got a
tester of the organic stuff. I’d personally pitch it. It had
separated in the tester after a 600 mile drive across the southeast
US. It was fine before leaving NC, but by the time it got to New
Orleans, in the back of an air conditioned car at that, ( though
sunny) it separated. This was a surprise at least. being a polymer.
If the organic folks want a paste they can use beeswax and any oil,
or oily substance they would care to combine with the wax. . it
amounts to a lip balm like textured compound and can be enhanced with
pure essential oils or NI oils ( nature identical) - for instance the
two cheapest oils around lemon or wintergreen (lemon having a slight
dissolving action for cleaning oxide or scaled(calcium coated)
metals, and wintergreen having a slight cooling action-so good as a
bur lube or drawplate lube). then there are a host of more specific
acting essential oils that in compound with waxes of different
hardness, and oils of different viscosities do slightly different
things. add in some elementals like pumice, salt, soda crystals, or
industrial diamond powders and you have a world of different things
that can be sold. that accomplish different things. I believe I told
you about my “miracle” hand cleaner- a compound of vegetable
glycerine, potassium solution, borax, fine pumice, beeswax, and oil
of spearmint or corsican mint. it removes the greasiest machinist’s
oils and dirt of any kind, leaves hands with a renewed skin colour (
whitens light skins and removes ashyness from dark skins), softer,
and resistant to cracking. I have been putting it into jars for years
and selling them for 5-10 bucks to mechanics, welders, painters, and
a number of other tradespeople that hear about it. it began because i
had made too much vegetable glycerine soap, and gave a welder I knew
a jar of it then he came back the next few days for 6 more jars of
the stuff. ridding me of the excess soap! ( then I had to remember
how I made it, as if I write anything down!). The point is that there
are a million products for the organic market. you didn’t set out
with that as a target market, and since it’s problematic and
compounds that are og exist. ditch it quick and keep working on your
"brown polymer". If you recall I was quite initially enthusiastic,
but after taking to funding sources as we discussed, they all said
the same things. . name, smell, and labelling/packaging. you didn’t
want to change any of those things so the interest was lost. still I
think you have a relatively marketable item, that works at least as
good as other paste waxes out there, but is a bit less toxic. I
highly recommend you look at downloading the perfumers workbook off
the www. It is a world of chemical formulary and will help you
organize your data and recipes/formulas in simple spreadsheet format
and will correct FOR YOU proportional mistakes that may solve your OG
formulation problem. Just plug your ingredients into the table (after
selecting from about 1500 choices of type of product) and it will
examine and recommend the necessary changes to make it stabilised. it
is the best free tool out there for what you are doing without hiring
a consultant, chemist, or sending things off to labs until it’s
right- as well as saving you what you told me was the batch cost for
each inconsistent run. … I worked on the tool years ago and it has
no limitations on your using it. If, in the slight chance, one of
your ingredients is not in the database, you will see the button
clearly, that lets you add your own up to 500 additional
ingredients/compounds/chemicals/elements.

It also saves your recipes and trials so you can go back and organize
or compare them. Anyway, as I just sent the workbook on to another
person ( trying a similar application to what you are trying to do) I
was reminded of how helpful it would be to you in your pursuits, and
then your post appeared! If you ever want to consider making a few
changes to the original “brown polymer” don’t hesitate to get in
touch with me

R. E. Rourke

4

I personally don’t like the “organic” stuff nearly as much as the
regular. I keep mine in a little jar on my desk, with no lid. It
tends to dry up a bit and harden and I just rub my finger over the
top of it and apply it to saw blades, burs, etc. The organic never
dries out and is rather gummy. I don’t like it at all.