When I needed to make jump rings with a guage too hard for my
strength, an instructor at the school I attend, did it on his
lathe. Perhaps there is one not too far from you.
For rings that you can wind with a lathe, often you can also do
it with a portable variable speed electric drill…
And for REALLY heavy rings, I do it by hand, thusly…
I needed some rings in 14K yellow gold and platinum, made in a 3
mm thick wire (that’s about an 1/8th inch rod, more than a
wire…) Having a drawbench and a large carbide drawplate made
producing the wire possible. To wind the rings, though, was well
beyond the strength of my hands, and attempts produced rings that
didn’t want to bend tight around the 1/4 inch diameter mandrel I
was using (Pay attention to those figures. This is a very heavy
wire around a tight curve. to show you it’s possilbe…)
Basically, to do this you need a bending jig that will both
supply the force needed to bend the wire, and will also force the
wire to bend close to the mandrel instead of a larger curve.
You can use any number of materials, but I generally make these
out of a spare, or old, etc. bench pin, which is maple. The key
feature, beyond hard wood, is the step in the pin’s tail end
which is a bit thicker than the thickness of the wire. The
mandrel I was using happened to be a drill bit shank, so I used
the drill to put a hole in the tail of that bench pin, such that
the space between the hole and the shoulder was almost exactly
the thickness of the wire.
Now, the mandrel is clamped vertically in a sturdy bench vise,
and the end of the wire hooked around the drill bit below the
vise jaws and then brought up through the jaws and bent down to
the horizontal plane next to the drill, ready to start wrapping
it around the mandrell. The hole in the bench pin tail is now
put over the mandrel, and slid down, fitting the wire into that
gap between the shoulder of the pin and the mandrel. so the wire
is not trapped in a tight space, held close to the mandrel (drill
bit shank). Pressing down on the pin keeps it pressed down on
the wire, and you can now rotate/pivot the bench pin around the
mandrel, always pressing down, so the wire cannot spring out of
it’s trap. The wood surface wraps the wire tightly round the
mandrel, and leaves no tool mark either, other than any “orange
peel” or ripple from bending such a heavy gauge around a tight
curve.
You do need enough extra length of wire to let you anchor it to
the mandrel below the vise jaws, and then enough to stick out to
the side enough for the bench pin to grab onto. And often the
first wind around the mandrel isn’t so good. But you can get
several more after that if you need. After winding, cut them off
normally, like any other jump ring. Or ring shank, or whatever.
Another note: A ring this heavy cannot easily be closed with
pliers and look straight. Because a wound jump ring is a helix
shape, when you close it up you are bending a small part of the
ring to bring the ends together, but not straightening up the
whole helix, so the closed ring is still warped when looked at
from the side. Often, a mallet isn’t heavy enough to flatten
these without causeing damage.
The best way I’ve found to then flatten such a heavy ring (and
smaller lighter ones too) is to find a depression in a dapping
block or bezel block into which the ring just barely fits, then
press it down into that depression just a hair with a suitable
flat ended punch. The back end of a dapping punch, carefully
ground flat, often works (use a soft mallet to tap it, not a
steel hammer, of course). When you do this, you end up with a
little mark from the wall of the dapping block, forming a slight
bevel on the outside of the ring, but it’s usually easily
polished off or otherwise dealt with. And the process also
closes the ring VERY tightly, so the seam is generally just
beautifully tight for soldering shut if that’s what you’re doing.
Hope this helps.
Peter Rowe