This thread, these years later, is pure gold.
I came for the education, stayed for the drama.
LOL. Yeah, that’s what I wanted to say.
This might be long but I hope it is advice you can use. I will discuss the ring, then talk about going into business. Two separate conversations.
Overall I like that you sketched out the design and were able to make the ring to that design. That right there is a skill many jewelers do not have.
I like the tall tube settings. I see a lot of those in jewelry from out of Mexico and South America. I like that it gives a nice side profile with the taller gem in the center. I feel it gives a nice arc to the design from the side.
I do like the pearls with the silver as they are a nice similar color match with silver being the whitest of the jewelry metals. The only thing I might wonder about is whether you tried antiquing the lines fanning out on the edges. I think that might make a nice contrast as well with the black lines in the turquoise. Maybe you did and decided it did not work out.
Artists choice.
Overall I think this is a very well-done piece. Now, for the things where you could improve a bit. None of these are huge issues but in my mind just something where you need more practice. Your polishing around the tube settings and the large bezel could be a bit better. Maybe it is just the picture? Do you know what thrumming is? It is a string with some polish on it that you can get into tight little spaces and curves.
On the turquoise, I think your bezel is too tall. It is a common thing for new jewelers to do so do not stress about it too much. A properly cut stone will only require the bezel to be burnished (pushed over) about 3° to 5° to securely hold the gem in place. This looks closer to 10°. That being said this could be a design choice by you but as a new jeweler., but I will default to you probably did what a lot of new jewelers did (we were all here at some point ourselves so do not stress about it.).
Also, the edge of the bezel is uneven. Also, just something that improves with practice.
When you test fit your cabochon, you want to look at the side and see how far down you need to file the bezel so you end up at about that 3 to 5-degree burnishing angle. Use a piece of dental floss under the gem so you can pop it out. You want the bezel to be just high enough to hold the gem without covering the sides. Put your gem in, look at it and decide if you need to remove more height, pop the gem out, file, and then repeat until you have it where you want it.
Now, and I think this is important in my opinion, I like to have a fairly flat edge when I burnish over my bezels. I feel it helps keep the edge a more uniform look without that scalloped look like yours has. It is not actually scalloped, but the light hitting the very edge gives it that look.
I start burnishing from the bottom part of the bezel and try to get the entire bezel to move over. Then I slowly work up. By the time you have worked over the center section of your bezel you should be seeing the gem getting tight in the setting. It is now when the top of the bezel is not yet touching the gem that I go around with a file with a safety edge (one side polished so it can not scratch your gems) and clean up the bezel top. In my experience, only a small fraction of jewelers can burnish a bezel perfectly without cleanup. I am NOT one of these people.
Once the top is cleaned up carefully burnish the top edge over to the gem. At this point, you should be done. You might need to carefully go around the bezel where it is touching the gem with a graver to clean it up but on a gem this large I suspect that you would be fine.
I would like to see the shank as well to see how that is attached. If you are as consistent as you are on the top, I am sure it is well made.
To my eye, the polish looks overall very well done. I would like to see a link to it on Etsy if you want to send it to me.
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Now, for the business part.
That is a beast of a different color entirely. In my experience, very few artists make good business owners. [Holding my hand up as well…]
I am not a great artist so take that as you will. I am detail orientated which I think makes me a great repair benchie and effective as a business owner.
So I need you to look at yourself without compassion.
how organized are you? Can you use Excel more than basic entering numbers? As a jeweler, I spent 20% of each day doing paperwork, ordering, and tasks that were not related to jewelry.
Have you taken any classes for the small business owner?
Have you contacted your state Revenue department and registered as a small business? Which Insurance company are you using to cover your materials, tools, and your business location? If it is in your house, does your rental agreement/lease allow you to operate as a business? If you own, what are the laws for businesses in your area? Will you have customer items in your shop and how much insurance will you need if you get sued for the loss or damage to these items?
A lot of questions that need to be answered. Take some basic business classes while you are learning to make beautiful items like this ring.
Also, pricing. Are you making enough to pay yourself a paycheck? Do you have someone to support you the first year or so when you are funneling every dollar made back into growing your business?
If you can not charge what your work is worth you will go broke stunningly fast. You have to charge people what your work is worth.
I would also look into classes from jewelers’ associations and GIA. it is amazing what you will learn from others who have walked this road before you.
I hope that the cudos on the first part balanced out the harshness of the second part of this reply. I think you very definitely have skills. All you need is a bit more practice and shortly you will be making very wonderful jewelry and a good name for yourself.
Just remember to not get an overblown ego. That leads to shoddy work and failure.
Always remember that we do this because we love to make beautiful items. Every piece you make will have a little bit of your soul in it. Be aware that you are at the beginning of a lifelong profession and passion. Learn everything you can, keep sketching and making notes, and always push the limits of what you know.
It is possible for a great artist (and I see you becoming that) to also become a great business owner. But it is a lot of work to bring these two separate worlds into one sphere. be aware that we as artists are harder on ourselves than anyone else. Make sure to take breaks for your mental health.
Good luck and I look forward to seeing more of your work.
=)