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Molds

#1

Gavin: I have two pieces I cast that I need to make molds of before I build
them into new pieces, what would you charge to make the molds? And can both
pieces be fit into one mold? Both pieces are about inch and a half square.
And what would you charge to knock out a couple waxes from the molds? Can
you do it without soldering on some sprues? My alternative is to buy that
Castaldo clear kit from Rio for 100 bucks, but it will let me mold without
a vulcanizer and mold from the origina waxes also. Let me know…Dave

Art Jewelry for Conscious People
http://www.opendoor.com/stephensdesign/crystalguy.html

#2

You wrote:

Gavin: I have two pieces I cast that I need to make molds of before I
build
them into new pieces, what would you charge to make the molds? And can
both
pieces be fit into one mold? Both pieces are about inch and a half
square.
And what would you charge to knock out a couple waxes from the molds?
Can
you do it without soldering on some sprues? My alternative is to buy
that
Castaldo clear kit from Rio for 100 bucks, but it will let me mold
without
a vulcanizer and mold from the origina waxes also. Let me know…Dave

Art Jewelry for Conscious People
http://www.opendoor.com/stephensdesign/crystalguy.html

orchid@ganoksin.com

procedures

Stephen, you should pay about $ 15-30 per mold, and yes you can mold
two items at once. Sprues do not actually have to be soldered on to the
work in question. Ooops, you asked Gavin! Sorry to intrude…

P.S. the cost to pull individual waxes should be nominal.

#3

Dave Stephens wrote:

Gavin: I have two pieces I cast that I need to make molds of before I build
them into new pieces, what would you charge to make the molds? And can both
pieces be fit into one mold? Both pieces are about inch and a half square.
And what would you charge to knock out a couple waxes from the molds? Can
you do it without soldering on some sprues? My alternative is to buy that
Castaldo clear kit from Rio for 100 bucks, but it will let me mold without
a vulcanizer and mold from the origina waxes also. Let me know…Dave

Art Jewelry for Conscious People
http://www.opendoor.com/stephensdesign/crystalguy.html

orchid@ganoksin.com

Dave,
I say that you should probably buy the kit to make your own and you can
use it then on other things.As for sprues on the model just depends and
if you work it right sometimes you can get by without soldering…you
might be able to figure out some other way and maybe try to make them
using the high temperature gasket sealer from an auto parts
place…GAvin

#4

Hi Dave

I hope you don’t mind if I stick my nose in here. The clear compound
isn’t very useful for a lot of jewelry work, unless it’s different from
the old Fereis mold liquid. The molds halves tend to slip over each
other too easily.

Mold making can be a real pain, even if you are able to cut the mold,
you then have to be able to pull a decent wax out, without distorting
or damaging it. I agree with Gavin that you should have the capability,
but I would like to add that a book or video could be helpful.

There is a silicon mold compound that pulls apart, no cutting, called
Moldex. I can send you enough for a small mold if you want, it costs me
about $7/lb. It is a putty that you press into the frame (you’ll need a
mold frame). You liberally dust the mold with parting powder, then after
vulcanizing you simply pull the two halves apart, it works pretty well,
but has about 5% or more shrinkage. It injects very well and leaves a
smooth finish on the pattern. You can skip the need for a vulcanizer by
clamping a frame between two heavy pieces of aluminum (1/4") and holding
them together with c clamps, and heat it in the oven.

Good luck, any questions, ask away…

Jeffrey

Dave Stephens wrote:

Gavin: I have two pieces I cast that I need to make molds of before I build
them into new pieces, what would you charge to make the molds? And can both
pieces be fit into one mold? Both pieces are about inch and a half square.
And what would you charge to knock out a couple waxes from the molds? Can
you do it without soldering on some sprues? My alternative is to buy that
Castaldo clear kit from Rio for 100 bucks, but it will let me mold without
a vulcanizer and mold from the origina waxes also. Let me know…Dave

         Jeffrey Everett

Handmade 18K, 22K, and platinum gemstone fine jewelry.
Diamond setting, rubber/metal molds, casting, lapidary
Die and mold engraving, plastic patterns for casting.
Cad jewelry design, cad/cam milling scroll filigree…
P O Box 2057 Fairfield IA 52556 515-469-6250

#5

There is a silicon mold compound that pulls apart, no cutting, called
Moldex. I can send you enough for a small mold if you want, it costs me
about $7/lb. It is a putty that you press into the frame (you’ll need a
mold frame). You liberally dust the mold with parting powder, then after
vulcanizing you simply pull the two halves apart, it works pretty well,
but has about 5% or more shrinkage. It injects very well and leaves a
smooth finish on the pattern. You can skip the need for a vulcanizer by
clamping a frame between two heavy pieces of aluminum (1/4") and holding
them together with c clamps, and heat it in the oven.

Good luck, any questions, ask away…

Jeffrey

Jeffrey/Gavin: OK, Gavin on the advice. The clear stuff I was thinking
about is sold by Rio Grande made by Castaldo. The thing that attracted me
to it was the ability also to make a mold of a wax. Right now I need to put
my money into a programmable kiln controller as I am sick of being tied to
the kiln for long hours just to cast three flasks. Besides, it freaks my
girlfriend out during that time because I’m obsessed with being ready and
making sure the temperature is where its supposed to be, makes me real
grouchy. I have no mold making equipment right now so will probably have
to wait on this. I think I know a jeweler near here who offered molds for
$15 apiece so will call him on monday. I have plans for building a wax
injector in a little booklet from the 1960’s so maybe will build that first
as can’t afford one of those expensive devices right now anyway. So,
Jeffrey, thanks for the offer. Dave

Art Jewelry for Conscious People
http://www.opendoor.com/stephensdesign/crystalguy.html

#6

Dave Stephens wrote:

There is a silicon mold compound that pulls apart, no cutting, called
Moldex. I can send you enough for a small mold if you want, it costs me
about $7/lb. It is a putty that you press into the frame (you’ll need a
mold frame). You liberally dust the mold with parting powder, then after
vulcanizing you simply pull the two halves apart, it works pretty well,
but has about 5% or more shrinkage. It injects very well and leaves a
smooth finish on the pattern. You can skip the need for a vulcanizer by
clamping a frame between two heavy pieces of aluminum (1/4") and holding
them together with c clamps, and heat it in the oven.

Good luck, any questions, ask away…

Jeffrey

Jeffrey/Gavin: OK, Gavin on the advice. The clear stuff I was thinking
about is sold by Rio Grande made by Castaldo. The thing that attracted me
to it was the ability also to make a mold of a wax. Right now I need to put
my money into a programmable kiln controller as I am sick of being tied to
the kiln for long hours just to cast three flasks. Besides, it freaks my
girlfriend out during that time because I’m obsessed with being ready and
making sure the temperature is where its supposed to be, makes me real
grouchy. I have no mold making equipment right now so will probably have
to wait on this. I think I know a jeweler near here who offered molds for
$15 apiece so will call him on monday. I have plans for building a wax
injector in a little booklet from the 1960’s so maybe will build that first
as can’t afford one of those expensive devices right now anyway. So,
Jeffrey, thanks for the offer. Dave

Art Jewelry for Conscious People
http://www.opendoor.com/stephensdesign/crystalguy.html

orchid@ganoksin.com

Dave,
Jeffrey’s stuff sounds really good.I use a clear compound that you bake
for about 30 min. and it works fairly well.I just don’t make enough
molds to justify a vulcanizer.The stuff you describe sounds good also
since it works cold…The clear stuff make cutting the mold easier but
still cutting is not easy and probably the hardest part of mold making.I
am no expert on the mold making thing by any means.Something else you
might want to do is check any local shops and perhaps have them make a
mold and inject the wax for you…Gavin

#7

Jeffrey Everett wrote:

Hi Dave

I hope you don’t mind if I stick my nose in here. The clear compound
isn’t very useful for a lot of jewelry work, unless it’s different from
the old Fereis mold liquid. The molds halves tend to slip over each
other too easily.

Mold making can be a real pain, even if you are able to cut the mold,
you then have to be able to pull a decent wax out, without distorting*
Jeffery,
Sounds like you know more than I do about this mold making thing and
I don’t do it very often as a matter of fact.When I do I use a clear
compound and bake it for about 30 min…
As for the slipping of the two mold halves there is a way to cut
keys into the mold that I found works to prevent the slipping of the
halves over each other…Gavin

#8

Jeffrey/Gavin: OK, Gavin on the advice. The clear stuff I was thinking
about is sold by Rio Grande made by Castaldo. The thing that attracted me
to it was the ability also to make a mold of a wax. Right now I need to put
my money into a programmable kiln controller as I am sick of being tied to
the kiln for long hours just to cast three flasks. Besides, it freaks my
girlfriend out during that time because I’m obsessed with being ready and
making sure the temperature is where its supposed to be, makes me real
grouchy. I have no mold making equipment right now so will probably have
to wait on this. I think I know a jeweler near here who offered molds for
$15 apiece so will call him on monday. I have plans for building a wax
injector in a little booklet from the 1960’s so maybe will build that first
as can’t afford one of those expensive devices right now anyway. So,
Jeffrey, thanks for the offer. Dave

Hey guys,
Hope you don’t mind if I butt in.
Two problems, two possible solutions.
Does one need a programable controler for the burnout oven? I don’t use one.
I generally set my Neycraft on a setting where the temperature will not rise
above 1500 and forget about it. Burning out overnight assures that a
complete burnouot has taken place. I’m out eating donuts and the flask takes
care of itself. This works for the small caster that uses small flasks. Say
2-2 1/2 inches. The larger flasks tend to crack when the water in the
investment is boiled off too quickly.
As for the mold problem, RTV or room temperature vulvanizing compounds work
great. They are expensive but don’t require vulcanizing. There can be some
slippage between mold halves, but a little care in cutting and injecting can
overcome most of those limitations. The see-through Creepy Crawler compound
shrinks a little too much for my taste. Years ago, when I was married, my
inlaws had a plaster casting business. They used a very similar compound for
casting lawn jockies and assorted lawn ornaments. This didn’t even require a
frame. They would paint this stuff, let it set up and pour a plaster frame
around it for reinforcement.

E-mail: manmountaindense@knight-hub.com
WWW: http://www.knight-hub.com/manmtndense/bhh3.htm
Snail: POB 7972, McLean, VA 22106

#9

Now you talk about a piece of equiptment that has to be very easy to make!!!
Especially when you consider the cost of purchasing one … shall we say
$700.oo new . .GIve or take?? … A vulcanizer!!!

Picked up one 2nd hand for $400.00. Specification… 50hz,5 amps @ 120 AC
volt… Seems to me with the experience represented here someone must have
put one together…
Something to do with a metal, wood vice connected to an iron(no steam
please) buy the aluminum molding forms anywhere and your off and running!!!

Jim
At 02:31 AM 10/19/96 -0500, you wrote:

#10

Have tried to do a few molds using Castaldo’s latex products…

Separating the molds . . suggest that you ‘baby power’ each face of the mold
prior to pressing the haves together … makes it easy to find the separation
and relatively easy to pull them apart.

Keys for each half . . Lets assume that each mold half will require 3
pieces of castaldo latex… For the ‘bottom’ half the mold, put 2 pieces
together(stick side to non-sticky side, one of the sticky sides up), cut 4
roofing nails to about 3/8+ inch in length, place the 2 pieces of latex
which are stuck together in the aluminum mold frame, place the 4 roofing
nails at each corners of the 2 piece latex on the sticky side(which is up),
which is inside of the aluminum mold frame, add the 3rd piece of
latex(sticky side to sticy side now), press down allowing the roofing nails
to puncture the 3rd piece of latex, make the ‘3 piece latex unit into one
unit’, Now ‘baby power’ the surface of the 3rd latex piece - the nails are
showing through about 3/16+ inch, place the item to be molded on the powered
surface, make another 3 piece unit with only non-sticky sides showing, power
the 2nd, 3 piece latex unit, place them in the vulcanizer and 'screw down’
the press lightly(snug!) until the heat is up somewhat, the complete screw
down should be in about 3 stages with full heat up! total process takes
about 15 minutes, plus cool down.

When pouring a wax, depending on the shape of the piece, sometimes it’s best
to remove with the wax somewhat flexible, other times the next morning with
the wax finished… experience pouring the piece is the best judge.

Wax makes a great difference… can’t advise as to brand, cause I purchased
a ‘ton’ from a guy going out of business… can only say that the "yellow"
is to hard, the bluish-purple is great due to flexibility . . not good for
wax touch ups but great for pouring.

Jim

At 07:39 AM 10/19/96 -0500, you wrote:

Jeffrey Everett wrote:

Hi Dave

I hope you don’t mind if I stick my nose in here. The clear compound
isn’t very useful for a lot of jewelry work, unless it’s different from
the old Fereis mold liquid. The molds halves tend to slip over each
other too easily.

Mold making can be a real pain, even if you are able to cut the mold,
you then have to be able to pull a decent wax out, without
distorting*