Interesting that you both think that the model master is junk.
I use it alot and have made many detailed 2D logo type pieces
where lettering is important. What the model master people
didn’t know or didn’t make clear is that the best results come
from using a transparency sheet in your printer, not their
reversal system. I create the digital picture in the computer in
black and white. (this system is NOT for use to create 3d models,
at all), I set the gamma and contrast to get a totally dark
black and white image. I reverse it to a negative and then print
it on a transparency. I set the printer to highest quality,
transparency, and manual color pushed all the way to black. That
gives me a negative that is very high quality and the black will
NOT let any light through. This is the “make or break” stage of
this process. The black in the print must be totally black, not
having any little pixels showing. Then exposing it as they
suggest and washing away the unexposed polymer gives a VERY
detailed model with lettering as sharp as any other process even
near it’s price range. If the polymer doesn’t begin to wash
away nearly instantly, you haven’t prepared the negative
properly. Try it this way and see if there isn’t a big
difference in what you get. They stopped making the "orange"
that was supposed to create 3D, it just didn’t work right. But
using the green polymer can create lettering and designs that
would normally require very expensive equipment. Just recently
I produced a model for one of our listers that I believe
surpassed what a computer milling process could do and it took
me a whole half hour and about $5 in materials. hmmmmmmmm. As I
have said before, everything available is simply a tool that is
added to your possibilities for production. No one tool or
approach is going to work for every type of requirement. Bud
Cravener