Hi, I would like to consult with you all about making a metal replica
of a cupcake paper liner. I thought of some options using repousse,
but would like to hear an syggestions that you could add. Also,
whether I should do this in one piece or two. Thanx for your time,
Hi Devora You could do a cupcake paper replica easily by foldforming
the side piece,then soldering on the bottom piece:or you could raise
the whole thing then add the crimps. A lot will depend on what size
it will be and what type and gauge of metal you want to use. Good
I use really thin sheet, and I would cut out a many pointed star
shape hole in a block of wood like a flattened patty pan liner, then
make the reverse (if you're good enough you can use the cut out of
the first wooden block), a little bit smaller by a factor of the the
thickness of the sheet.
Anneal the metal, place the metal on the void block, line up the
mandrel, then use a solid hammer strike with a "heavy" hammer.
Well that's how I'd do it.
Regards Charles A.
Devora- What a fun project.
I'd do it in two pieces. Make the side with a slight taper. Solder
the side seam. Then I'd make, or have made by a machine shop, a
small crimping stake and v shaped piece of metal or a similarly
shaped hammer to hammer in the grooves. Then solder on the bottom.
You could also raise it in one piece and then fill with pitch and
repousse. I'd try both in copper and then make the final one in
silver. Have fun and make lots of jewelry.
The simplest way to do this would be to use a corrugator.
I've been thinking about this for a couple of days and here are my
How you go about making this thing will depend, firstly, on how
exactly like a cupcake liner it is supposed to be, and, secondly, on
how many you plan on making.
I'm going to assume that you want it to be as like a cupcake liner
as possible and that you will be making just a few pieces, rather
First you need to get yourself a pattern. Pay a visit to the best
baker's supply store in your town and buy a package of the cupcake
liners which you want to duplicate. By flattening one out you will
be able to get the measurements of the disk you'll need to start
with, the number of pleats in the circle, the size of the pleats at
the edge, the size of the central unpleated bottom and the angle and
depth of the pleats.
Someone suggested using a corrugating mill. The problem is that
corrugating rollers produce parallel pleats, and the pleats in a
cupcake liner describe a cone.
I suggest making a crimping stake and matching crimping iron that
duplicate the depth and angles of the pleats in your sample. In
order to make the paper sample rigid enough to take accurate
measurements, or to use as a model, you can glue together 3 or 4 of
the paper liners. You could even glue together enough of them to
bring the model up to the thickness of the metal you plan on using.
The material you make the crimping stake and iron from will depend
on the material you plan on making the finished piece in. If you plan
on using 0.010" annealed sterling you could make the stake and iron
from hard maple. That would be sufficient to put the crimps into soft
thin metal, assuming you don't need hundreds of the things. But I'd
make the stake and iron in bronze, less chance of breaking and it'll
last longer. You could make them in steel, if you have the necessary
technique, but bronze would be easier.
Using your glued up model as a form you can press or melt wax onto
an interior fold and into its complementary exterior pleat. Make sure
to coat with some sort of release first. You can then have these
waxes cast in bronze, giving you the faces of your crimping stake and
iron. You'll then have to mount the stake so you can fix it rigidly
in a hardy hole or stake holder, and add a handle to the crimping
I'd make the interior wax of a mountain fold, as the origami folks
call it, and the exterior wax of a valley fold, thus the stake will
be a valley and the iron a mountain and you will be forcing the metal
into a depression when you do the actual crimping.
You may need to beef up the back of the iron to take the blows of a
mallet, which you'll need to get the folds nice and crisp. It should
only take a few practice pieces in copper for you to get the hang of
the spacing and pressure needed to produce your liners.
If you cast the crimping iron from a wax taken off the paper model
it may have a sharp edge from the lowest part of the fold. This could
cut through the metal you're working rather than deforming it. To
work the metal down into the crease of the crimping stake you might
need to use a series of steel rods of decreasing diameter, or better,
a series of cross peen hammers, before finishing off with the cast
crimping iron, to get a nice crisp crease. You might also slightly
round over the fore edge of the iron to make certain that it presses
rather than cuts the metal you're working.
That's how I'd proceed, I think. I hope I made my notions on the
After watching an Independent Lens (PBS) production called 'Between
the Folds" last night. ... i'd say the answer to your
question is somewhere in an Origami diagram. .. It is almost
unbelievable how far this art form has progressed.
A youngish professor at MIT said that virtually any (geometric) form
can be made with techniques that have been developed.
From a dragon, complete with scales, to very complicated 3
dimensional geometric based (art) forms from a single sheet of paper
are possible. .
a cupcake "tin" must be in there somewhere. .. after all, it's a
series of rectangles and a circle bottom.
you can watch the program online. very enlightening.
I have seen these made in street markets in Morocco using a pair of
negative / positive pliers, the ones where one prong is a tapered
concave and the other is a round tapered prong. (they are really
useful for all sorts of things. So using about 0.6 mm annealed sheet
mark out the base size required + 2x the the length of the prongs of
the pliers that should give you the diameter of the circle to cut.
Start to gently fold the sheet with the prongs pointing towards the
centre then turn the partly crimped sheet over and repete. I have
never done this myself, just seen it done, so best of luck. You could
of course mark the divisions if you want accuracy.
David Cruickshank (Australia)
Thank you all for such great ideas! I will try several mehthods in
thin-gauge copper and then choose the one with the nicest results
for the final silver item. Yum!
Somebody replied to my personal email. It went into my Spam folder
and I deleted it with a bunch of junk emails by mistake. Could this
person please resend, if it is not too much trouble? Thank you.