Hi and a happy holiday season to all!I would like to make a hinged
metal bracelet that is comprised of panels that contain a boxed-in
mad weave pattern (a three-way weave).Though I have seen finished
pieces, I myself cannot seem to succeed in doing this weave with
metal. Also a general question: When weaving metal, which method is
best: rollmilling wire (for identical pieces), or cutting metal
strips.Any tips for me?
Thanx very much and keep shining,
Devora -
I have not woven flat pieces as you are going to do, but I have done
a lot of viking weave chains. Once I used square wire, and didn’t get
very far. It’s a sample of “what not to do” efforts.The edges bind
with each other as opposed to sliding past that wire allows.
(Although with viking weave, there’s the geometry issue with square
wiRe: the length from corner to corner being greater than the edge to
edge distance.)
I’m not familiar with your weaving process, how much of it involves
threading the metal through openings. If your weave requires a lot
of this, then go with flattened wire - I think the rounded edges will
help. But if it’s all just laid over-and-under, then strips of sheet
may make a better finished product…and the friction of the edges
may actually help keep the item together while you are weaving it.
Let us know how it comes out.
best regards,
Kelley Dragon
I’m interested in the answer too. Please post to all if possible.
THANK YOU
Either would be acceptable. I did a little weaving and wanted
uniform pieces so rolled my round wire flat using the rolling mill.
For textural interest, the weft was also hammered while the warp was
smooth. I want to try this mad weave now with smooth, hammered and
reticulated strips. Sounds like fun.
Michele
Hi, First, thanx to all who posted on and off list. I was referred
to Arline Frisch’s book “Textiles in Metal” for extensive information
on metal weaving. I also happen to have Shereen LaPlantz’s Mad Weave
book, which describes triaxial weaves. Unfortunately, I did not get
specific responses about the mad weave and metal. My problem was
weaving the third straight part after the two diagonal ones. Metal
is not as flexible as basketweaving material usually is.Basically in
general, most people stated that the best way to get consistent
weaves is by rollmilling the wire, usually 26-28 gauge.If I figure
out anything unusually special I will share.Happy holidays and keep
shining, D
Have done this with bezel wire packed as closely as possible which
makes it even. Most weaves are more even packed tightly.
If you want a more open effect I would suggest a “jig” something like
what is used in bobbin lace to control the spacing.
Louise
Ok, you’ve got me going on this now especially since I got a copy of
LaPlantz’s Mad Weave for xmas…if I make any headway, I’ll
pass it on…
Lisa Van Herik
www.wovenwirestudio.com