Just what is fine jewelry?

Jewelry Discussion
41 
Is it possible that this is a much "later" approach to setting
techniques? Interesting thought. Where does it appear in writing?
In what book? just curious. Surely there's a reference to it
somewhere and I just don't know where.

I have never seen it in print either, but the same can be said of
many other advanced techniques. Most of existing jewellery literature
are extremely primitive and do not touch complex issues. I do not
understand why, but that is how it is. One of the reasons I am doing
my DVD(s) is to introduce these techniques to wider audience.

Leonid Surpin

42

I was only familiar with ajour as part of plique-a-jour where
enamels fill the pierced openings… You can find an article on
Plique-a -jour in wikipedia.

But ajour is found online in thefreedictionary dot com and
webster-dictionary dot org from the 1913 Webster’s a’jour’ n. 1. of
or pertaining to objects which are pierced or decorated with an
openwork pattern.

Carol

43 
Right on! I must say, I had not earlier thought much about it, but
now that you, Al, mention you can't find it using Google, I had to
try - yep, no mention, no matter how you spell it, even using the
french spelling. Lots of references to the color blue.

I did find references under ajour, a jour, and ajoure using Google,
even in English dictionaries. But azure is a color.

Al Balmer
Pine City, NY

44 
beading tool is, in the craft world they don't. It is not in the
dictionary, does that mean I have never used a beading tool?

But both “beading” and “tool” are in the dictionary, and a Google
search returns 8,670,000 references, many or most jewelry related.

Here’s an interesting dictionary I hadn’t found before, but will
bookmark:

Business Directory - Ganoksin Jewelry Making Community

It has a definition of “beading tool”, and “a jour”, but again,
azure is a color. Interesting that a term can be in wide usage, yet
not recorded in reference works.

Al Balmer
Pine City, NY

45 
Is it possible that this is a much "later" approach to setting
techniques? Interesting thought. Where does it appear in writing?
In what book? just curious. Surely there's a reference to it
somewhere and I just don't know where.

Well, Kay and others, try searching for “ajour setting”. 99% of
goldsmithing isn’t written in books to begin with. This comes from
at least the mid-1800’s, that I know of. There seems to be some
fascination with it here, but it’s far from obscure. Pretty common,
really.

46

The problem isn’t the word. It’s that the dictionary isn’t large
enough. I’m a gringo living in Mexico and I use a huge Oxford Spanish
Dictionary. I think soplete/torch is about the only jewelry related
word in the whole thing. Much of language is too area specific for
even the biggest dictionaries. Ever heard of jargon?

47

For the sake of clarity, we should use the terms “plique a jour” or
“ajourer” (the verb). I don’t see any other definition for azure in
my dictionaries than the blue color of the sky or the act of
coloring with blue. The definition in my French dictionary of the
verb “ajourer” is “percer de jours ornementaux” which translates as
saw out ornamental spaces to let light (jour) in. So let’s adopt this
new precise term; the enamelists already have! Or else find another
term in English which expresses exactly what we’re talking about.
This thread began because of the ambiguity.

Barbara from the south of France

48

I’m reading Cellini’s book right now – that isn’t exactly a recent
book – and he mentions a joure.

49 
I have never seen it in print either, but the same can be said of
many other advanced techniques.

Perhaps a hold-over from the days when techniques were secret and
passed only to apprentices?

Al Balmer
Pine City, NY

50

On our very own Orchid Benchtube there is a video that shows the
azure being cut:

It’s about 2 minutes into this wonderful video.

Beckie

51 
The problem isn't the word. It's that the dictionary isn't large
enough. I'm a gringo living in Mexico and I use a huge Oxford
Spanish Dictionary.

There is thing that natively speaking English do not realize. In
Russia, for example, they print dictionaries of English to Russian
for every specific branch of Science and Trade. There are Chemical
dictionaries; there are dictionaries for doctors, engineers, and so
on. Every trade has specific terminology. Also term in one trade
means something else in another. Term azure is very much familiar to
anybody, who knows how a door of goldsmith shop looks from inside.

Leonid Surpin

52

You know, you guys are basically just saying this person is stupid
for writing/pronouncing something wrong… or for an entire group of
people for doing it. Maybe they a’jour the piece so they could see
the azure sky through it… and eventually tied the two words
together. Anyhow, enough on picking on peoples “English”… It ain’t
nice ya’ll. I think we’ve all gotten the point. Or in my native
English, Ya’ll jus beatin’ a dead horse an’ bein’ rather rude. If ya
ain’t got nothin’ nice ta say then don’t. Jus’ sayin’ it ain’t in
your dictionary didn’t help with the original question.

Val

53

Try googling “azure stone setting” folks - its out there…

54

“Azuring” is nothing mystical!

I assure you, “azuring” is really very simple, and not some mystical
thing to be debated.

"Whether spelled “a’jour”, or “azure”, the deal is this:

No matter how tightly they are set into thier mountings, faceted
gems such as diamonds and other stones accumulate dirt on thier
undersides, and must be cleaned occasionally. Drilling a hole behind
the stone is the first step. If you hold the mounting up, you will
indeed see azure through said hole, if you are working by
daylight…it’s a blue sky!

Opening a small hole behind the stone helps to get water and
cleaning solutions to work against that grime, but because of the
surface tension of water, and the small size of the hole, that’s
simply not enough. Now, imagine an “S” shaped saw cut with a hole in
the center…that is an azured setting.

The hole is drilled, after which a saw-blade is inserted,
re-clamped, and two simple crescent shaped cuts are made, one in
either direction. Not only does this facilitate water passing ina nd
back out of the mounting, but it also allows bristles of a cleaning
brush to enter the back of the mounting. This kind of azure is simple
to make, works very well for cleaning, and it adds elegance to the
piece of jewelry. Variations on this basic theme will add interest to
your jewelry, just don’t overdo it and weaken the setting.

Any questions?

Kerry Drew @}:^)

Tokyo, Japan

55

I’ve been reading the great abundance of posts on the meaning of
"azure" and “ajour” and “fine” jewelry etc etc for some days. Some
entries are earnest, a few tongue-in-cheek, some full of passion and
certitude. May I interject a short passage on the meaning of meaning
which may calm some frayed nerves" Or not.

From Lewis Carroll.

“When I use a word,” Humpty Dumpty said, in rather a scornful tone,
“it means just what I choose it to mean. neither more nor less.”

“The question is,” said Alice, “whether you can make words mean so
many different things.”

“The question is,” said Humpty Dumpty, “which is to be master that’s
all.”

Alice was too much puzzled to say anything, so after a minute Humpty
Dumpty began again. “They’ve a temper, some of them. particularly
verbs, they’re the proudest. adjectives you can do anything with, but
not verbs. however, I can manage the whole lot! Impenetrability!
That’s what I say!”

56 
You know, you guys are basically just saying this person is stupid
for writing/pronouncing something wrong

Ok, Ok I promise to write 50 times on the blackboard A Jour. I’m
dyslexic so spelling is not my forte. However making fine jewelry
is.

Have fun and make lots of fine jewelry.
Jo Haemer
timothywgreen.com

57

Thanks Ingeborg Keane - did google “azure stone setting” and yes I
did find it. Very helpful.

Kay

58

mise a jour - was: Just what is fine

For the sake of clarity, we should use the terms "plique a jour"
or "ajourer" (the verb). I don't see any other definition for azure
in my dictionaries than the blue color of the sky or the act of
coloring with blue. The definition in my French dictionary of the
verb "ajourer" is "percer de jours ornementaux" which translates
as saw out ornamental spaces to let light (jour) in. So let's adopt
this new precise term; the enamelists already have! Or else find
another term in English which expresses exactly what we're talking
about. This thread began because of the ambiguity.

I had been going to stay out of this as it is the sort of discussion
that draws out the pedant in me, something of which I try to be
wary. But if we are going to talk about reforming the nomenclature,
the term that my teachers and bosses used, all of whom were French or
French speakers, is “mise jour.”

In cooking, they say “mise en place.”
In theater, they say “mise en scene.”

There are many phrases that use “mise” which comes from “mettre” to
put. So my teachers and bosses said “mise a jour.”

Of course, these days to most people :mise-a-jour" means update,
like updating software, or updating events on a calendar.

This comes from a usage of “mettre jour” meaning to publish or make
public. “Bring to light” is the similar expression in English.

“Mettre” also means to put on, as clothing. “Je mets la chemise.”
Which brings me to a delightful digression.

As I’m sure you’re aware the patron saint of goldsmiths, jewelers
and metalworkers generally is St. Eligius, St. loi in French. There
is a charming children’s song about St. loi and the important role he
played as minister to King Dagobert. Herewith the first verse with a
rough translation.

Le bon roi Dagobert
A mis sa culotte l’envers;
Le grand saint loi
Lui dit : " mon roi!
Votre Majest
Est mal culotte.
C’est vrai, lui dit le roi,
Je vais la remettre l’endroit.

Good King Dagobert had put on his britches inside out.
The great St. loi said to him "O, my King
“You Majesty is badly britched.”
“That’s right,” the King told him, “I’m going to put them back on
right side out.”

The song goes on to catalog the many ways St. loi saved the king
from embarrassment when he’d made a faux pas. Until at last,

Quand Dagobert mourut,
Le diable aussitt accourut;
Le grand saint loi
Lui dit : " mon roi!
Satan va passer,
Faut vous confesser.
Hlas, lui dit le roi,
Ne pourrais-tu mourir pour moi ?

When Dagobert was dying
The Devil quickly came running.
Great St. loi said, "O, my King,
“Satan is coming, you must confess.”
“Alas,” said the king, “couldn’t you die for me?”

Elliot Nesterman

59 
Try googling "azure stone setting" folks - its out there.....

Ah! The magic phrase! This does indeed find some references.
Mysterious are the ways of Google.

Al Balmer
Pine City, NY

60

For info on cutting azures, go to http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/1fo
Brad Simon has written a description along with a diagram.

Vicki Stone