Jewelry weekend workshops

So, what sort of recourse would one have if one purchased gemstones
that were treated and the treating wasn't disclosed? 

My question to you is are you talking about buying treated gems as a
retailer that you are then going to resell or are you talking about
a customer buying treated gems retail from you without being told? If
it’s the latter (the consumer) then they can take you to court and,
if they have a good attorney, probably win up to triple damages.
Damages can be more than the cost of the actual stone if they can
prove some other nonsense like emotional damage as well. If your
suppliers aren’t disclosing treatment, then you need to encourage
them to do that (joining the AGTA is a good first step for them) and
if you’re unhappy about what you’re getting from them make them take
it back. Usually suppliers will want to keep you as a customer so
they should be willing to take goods back that you are unhappy with.
The best solution to all of this, however, is to only buy from
trusted gem suppliers (again the AGTA is a good place to start since
members HAVE to disclose treatment) who will tell you honestly what
you are getting. If the supplier is in the US and they won’t take the
goods back then you could probably sue them as well, based on the
laws as they are written, but I can’t say I’ve heard of that
happening (yet).

Daniel R. Spirer, G.G.
Daniel R. Spirer Jewelers, LLC
1780 Massachusetts Ave.
Cambridge, MA 02140
617-234-4392

To me, using a rolling mill, is like using a lathe, is like using
a casting machine, is like using a flexshaft, is like using..... 

I tend to agree: calling it hand made-as long as your hands are
directing the tools and the metal; not like a stamping machine doing
dozens of identical parts…

Just my.02 Lira, Betsy
(in Texas it is still in the 90’s! where is my fall weather?)

So, what sort of recourse would one have if one purchased gemstones
that were treated and the treating wasn't disclosed? 

This is where it may get a bit tricky. Many commercial gemstones are
so routinely treated that non-disclosure is actually the norm.
Entry-level gemologists are taught to assume that certain species and
varieties of gemstones are enhanced in some way until proven
otherwise because they are so routinely enhanced. For example, the
most part of commercial corundum looks awful until packed in a
crucible with a mixture of borax and other ingredients and heated
until the color and/or clarity improves. Very little emerald arrives
at a lapidary without being oiled first, either by the miners or the
dealers. Blue topaz is also nearly always enhanced before reaching
the cutter. The answer to your question hinges somewhat on which
gemstones a person has bought.

If a person purchases a fairly expensive lot from a dealer who
claims that the stones are natural and not enhanced, that person
would be well served to get that in writing, which could give you
recourse to sue for a refund. If the dealer won’t put it in writing,
chances are the stones are treated anyway. If the lot is inexpensive,
pursuing the matter won’t be worth paying a lawyer. But I’ve never
done business with a dealer yet who hasn’t refunded my money on
request once I’ve proven their goods were treated or unacceptable in
some way. Maybe I’ve been lucky, but that’s how it’s been for me. I
once went to a show without my “portable gem ID kit” and purchased a
very nice-looking star sapphire that almost seemed too good to be
true. Turned out it was. With a loupe, it looked fine - but under 64X
magnification, I could see the rutile didn’t penetrate enough below
the surface for it to be natural. Also, the color of the stone in
transmitted light had that greenish tint that also indicates
enhancement in that type of stone. When I called the dealer and told
him my findings, he apologized profusely, admitted he didn’t have the
gemological skills to tell the difference and credited my charge card
immediately. Other dealers (including eBay sellers) have acted
similarly.

Either way, if a person gets stuck with a non-disclosure situation
that the dealer refuses to resolve, they can and should lodge a
complaint with the FTC. The FTC may or may not act on it, depending
on the seriousness of the complaint, the amount of money involved and
whether the complaint has been lodged before. Even if they don’t act
on your specific complaint, they eventually will after enough people
have complained.

Your best course of action is to make a study of gemology as soon as
time and money allows. I always recommend it, and people always post
that they can’t afford it, don’t have the time, etc. I honestly don’t
know what other course of action to recommend. As I’ve posted so many
times before, there is no gemstone police walking around out there -
we’re all on our own, so we all have to educate ourselves and
complain to the authorities when appropriate. But I will add
something more this time: A couple of the people who don’t get the
fact that amethyst is NOT green have mentioned taking the GIA classes
online. Once they have done so, they WILL understand why. It bums me
out that I haven’t been able to explain it well enough.

One more thing; nobody says that we all have to complete a
comprehensive G.G. course, there are plenty of affordable, albeit
less comprehensive, practical gemology courses out there. Some are
as low as $200 - $500 and can help people make much better decisions
about gemstone purchases. People in this industry don’t HAVE to spend
thousands on a gemology diploma. But man, will they ever wail when
they get ripped off on a parcel of stones that turns out to be
garbage.

James S. Duncan, G.G.
James in SoFL

Hi Christine

bright cut with a graver to neaten. you might also need to clean up
with papers around the bezel a little 

Thanks so much for the detailed explanation. What does bright cut
with a graver mean though? Also, what papers do you recommend?

Thanks
Kim

Thanks so much for the detailed explanation. What does bright cut
with a graver mean though? Also, what papers do you recommend? 

Thanks for the appreciation Kim :slight_smile: – “bright cut” in this context
means to cut a neat, even sliver of metal from around the top of the
bezel just where it meets the stone- sometimes the pushing over of
the bezel makes it a bit ragged ( well mine does, anyway). It’s
easier than it sounds, but do be aware of the hardness of your stone
in relation to the hardness of the graver ( about mohs 5 or 5 1/2
from memory). This leaves a nice bright bevelled edge to the inside
edge of the bezel- cool, huh?

I would use anything from 600 to 1200 papers, working through the
grits- this depends on if there are marks on the bezel or not - I
tend to run around the sides with a fine silicon wheel shaped a bit
like a miniature pencil - sorry I never know what they are called,
but buy whatever looks like it will fit the shape you want to
cleanup and polish- btw, these wheels can be shaped by running them
against a diamond grit sharpening tool ( looks like a nail file).

ps- I just received Gerry’s setting notes, and even though I haven’t
had time to read them yet, the diagram on the first page was enough
to give me one of those " aha" moments, so can’t wait to get to the
rest- there’s always so much to learn !

have fun, and make some cool rings, Christine

Christine,

Please be very very careful when bright cutting around a bezel with a
graver. It is true that the graver may only be a 5.5 or 6 hardness
but…the sharp point or edge of the graver can seriously damage
the stone even if it is much harder. I demonstrate regularly to my
students that a file can be used across the surface of a cab (note I
said cab…do not do so on a faceted stone as it will still damage
the meetpoints and facet ridges), but always caution them against
laying the edge of the file on the stone or using the file on any
pithy or crystaline areas. Also, keep all papers away from the
stone. Any black paper will be SiC which is a 9.5 hardness and will
scratch anything up to a diamond. Be aware also that many of the
silicon wheels contain various grits that can also damage the stone.
Only pumice or oxides may be used against the stone.

A hint…before bezeling, lay the bezel against some worn 400 grit
paper and give it a few strokes. That will smoothe the top edge and
reduce or eliminate ragged bezels. Also, in the Orchid archives is a
short discourse I sent in about proper use of the bezel roller. If
it is used correctly, you should rarely have to use either a
burnisher or a graver. Check it out.

I received Gerry’s papers also and, as you, have not had time as yet
to study them. I am sure they will be full of great tips!

Cheers from Don at The Charles Belle Studio in SOFL where simple
elegance IS fine jewelry!

many thanks Don for your tips on some of the “finesses” of bezel
setting. All advice is always gratefully accepted. I am always very
careful with gravers, files, papers etc. near stones, and was just
trying to explain a little more briefly than is my wont :slight_smile: i have
never used a bezel roller, but have been interested in them for a
while- I will look up your post in the archives, thanks again,

Christine in sth Aust.