it is the actual fabrication that i have a hard time with. The kind
of rings I love are on www.zoechicco.com. Obviously I do not want
to do the ex act same thing as her, but something along those
lines. Can anyone tell how they were made??
Hi Laura, with your skills and experience in hollow construction you
should have no problems in fabricating a large stone set ring
similar to those on the site you mention. Basically all you need to do
is to make a bezel to fit your chosen stone, make a ring band, and
put the two together. Step by step ( the way i would do it for rings
with large faceted stones - but there are many ways) bezel-
measure stone, cut a strip of metal total length which equals the
diameter of the stone + twice the thickness of your metal ( choose
thickness depending on size of stone, those size stones approx…5mm
thick) + 1mm for saw cut, total height equals the height of the stone
measured from culet to just above where the girdle is ( hold stone
sideways, see where the metal needs to reach to hold the stone) + a
little for finger clearance ( or more if you want the stone higher) +
enough that when sideways it is bisected by the circle of your ring
band there will be enough metal to " go down the sides of the ring" -
the finished depth will be your shallowest point at the top point of
the ring so you have to allow for this - draw a square box on top of
a circle and you will get the idea. solder it, check for size- the
bezel should just slide nicely over the stone, no gaps etc.
Cut and shape an inside bezel ( seat) in the same way, but of thicker
metal, and deducting the thickness of the metal from your
measurements- shape the inside with a file or setting burr to fit
the stone, turn up to shape, check fit and placement inside of outer
bezel and then solder into place.
ring band- measure finger size, cut length ( work out same as outside
bezel above), shape, solder. Finish ring band by shaping as you wish
construction- position bezel with ring band then file out a semi
circle underneath the bezel so it sits on the band, clean up so it
will be easier to polish when finished - I routinely polish each
component to up tripoli stage before joining - position, then
solder, pickle, rinse, check, polish.
setting- place stone, push over bezel working opposite sides
alternately, burnish around edge of bezel or bright cut with a
graver to neaten. you might also need to clean up with papers around
the bezel a little.
final quick buff - ultrasonic - dry, wear it!
there are lots of refinements along the way, and obviously a lot
more details, but this is the basic way that I use- play with it-,
cheers, Christine in Sth Australia