Jewellery Photography

Ted:

My two cents differ a little from yours regarding doing your own
photography. I would agree with someone else who suggested that the
photos might best be left to a pro if hundreds or thousands of
dolars are riding on your photos and associated entrance into
juried shows. However, I have seen excellent photos done by
amateurs and the equipment for a simple tent setup doesn’t have to
cost oodles if you don’t need all the bells and whistles.

As an example I would suggest that a decent Pentax K1000 could be
had for $150 or less. It is a classic manual 35mm camera that will
serve anyone who can use an in camera meter and focus OK. There
are certainly many other similar cameras which would do the trick
at the same or a lesser price. To the camera I would add a
Spiratone bellows or similar, which should be available for $75 or
so, and a 50mm enlarging lens. An old tessar formula lens, an old
Kodak Ektar, a Wollensak Raptar or any number of old enlarging
lenses for $35 or so would do. I doubt you could go too far wrong
even with an el cheapo of unknown provenance. An enlarging lens of
100mm or so would allow a little more working room for the lights
and would be OK, too, but could be a bit more expensive. For
lighting I would get a hot shoe cable or a PC flash cord and a
small “cigarette pack” flash which should be available at $20 or
less for the flash, and $10 or less for the cable. You would need
to improvise a background from felt or fur or something creative
like rocks and leaves and wood, etc. A tent can be made from an
old pillow case or do as I do and just make a cylinder out of
computer paper if you are just photographing a ring or something
small.

The total cost of the above would be $290 and I know I could do
better on several of the items. Exposure would be by guide number
off the flash to start, and bracket. take a test roll on slide
film and pick the best shot. Make sure to note the distance ofthe
flash from the jewelry. Because you are using flash, there is no
need for a tripod. Glide the camera into focus and squeeze the
shutter as the jewelry comes into focus. A depth of field preview
under some strong light will tell you what f-stop you need,
probably f16 or f22.

I think some amateur photographers take great photos and are
naturals at figuring out guide numbers and depth of field, etc.
Others are all thumbs and are put off by this stuff and should stay
away from it and do what they do best. However, macro photos can
be done quite well with simple old equipment that isn’t very
expensive.

there’s my $.02
Roy (Jess)

Dauvit, How do you make the tent of the thin white fabric? I tried
using embroidery hoops to keep the fabric from drifting “in”, but
my lights came in contact, and burned nice large holes in the
fabric. I then constructed a box from translucent plexi, held
together with white Velcro. This seems to cut down the light too
much, and it has started to warp from the bulb heat. I made the
box rather small, as the lamps on the copy stand, from which my
camera is suspended, only move out a small ways.

I am not using a copy stand, but a flash placed outside the tent,
which I make by tying a cotton bedsheet round the legs of an
upturned table and laying a second bedsheet over the top.
(Education in Scotland is NOT well-funded, but necessity is the
mother of invention, and all that!)

This solution is probably not suitable for you, but maybe you
could adapt it.

Yours aye,
Dauvit Alexander,
Glasgow, Scotland.

   I would  like a better "tent" than the plexi- and one that
doesn't burn!

I use an old display made out of steel. It is just a basic frame
with open top and sides, so there is less area to get hot. I only
use the bottom piece of glass to hold my work. I too, have waited to
add to this thread, but here goes. I used to shoot concert
photography professionally so when I needed to do table top I had
to do quite a bit of research. I started with Kodak. They have and
800 # and are very helpful. I ended up using ASA 64 slide film…
it gives virtually no grain, and matched it with very inexpensive
halogen shop lights from Home Depot ( They were less than $10 each)
This gives me perfect color match…there is no color shift if your
lighting and film are coordinated. I tented with sheer curtains from
the 5 & !0. Any sheer fabric will do. You want to filter the light,
not block it. Place the lights at least 6 inches from the fabric. I
use three lights place equally around the piece if I want no
shadows. Previous comments about depth of field are right on. I
use a good macro lens. I have gotten excellent results with this
system.

Good luck with your shots.

Janet, enjoying today’s positive effects of El Nino in Philly.

  You would need to improvise a background from felt or fur or
something creative like rocks and leaves and wood, etc.  

If you plan to use your images as jury slides or for publication
do NOT choose a decorative back drop. Buy either a shaded
background from a photo supply or get a medium toned heavy paper
without much texture from the art supply store. You must keep the
focus on your jewelry and not clutter up the frame with other
stuff.

  Is there anyone with and extensive background in jurying who
would be willing (for a reasonable fee) to critique my slides and
give and opinion as to which ones are best for jurying?  My
friends and I plan to get together for a group critique at
sometime but I would love to hear from a pro.

Although, not extensive, I have some jury experience. I am
unable, nor would I feel justified in giving you an expert opinion
on your slides, but I will tell you a few things that are of great
importance:

  1. Get the best quality slide you can afford.  A juror takes
    

about 30 seconds viewing each “set” (two slide projectors to 4
projectors at one time).

  1. When chosing your slides for a jury, avoid different
    

colored backgrounds. Have the photographer use a curved solid
background so the items “float in the background of your slide.”

  1. Try to keep your perspective equal throughout the slides
    (ie. not a real close up of earrings, then a far away shot of
    another pair of earrings.

  2. Avoid sending slides that are “works of art” The jury is
    only interested in the item, not how well it sits on a pile of
    stones, material, etc.

  3. Try to chose your slides in such a way that they are
    

indicitive of your style. ie. 1 pierced constructed item with a
cab and one fillegree ring with a diamond, one copper twisted
bracelet. etc. This confuses the jury as to your consistancy in
style.

I hope this helps. Email if you have any additional questions.

Hello all,

I just wanted to thank all the multitudes of people who
responded to my cry for wisdom. What an amazing response!!! I
truly appreciate all the help. My first trade show starts on
Sunday, and I’m rather nervous, but I think it will be an
incredible learning experience. I thank you all for your
support!

Sincerely,

Tobey Robinson
Adoremus Creations in Metal
Burnaby, BC, Canada