I've been testing fluxes

Most people have disregarded the use of the solder pick as a tool
but instead consider it a liability because thier solder falls off
or sticks to it they allow thier lack of skills to formulate
opinions and then proceed with those assumptions that a solder pick
should only be made from titanium, and solder should never stick to
the pick. 

Au contraire! I love my solder pick. It’s one of the most useful
tools I possess. Orchid’s Lisa Gallagher first put me onto the use
of solder picks and I’ve been hooked ever since.

I was using it incorrectly for a while, heating the solder until it
balled up and picking it up with the pick. But of course, I was
getting a pitted surface on the solder because I was overheating it
and burning off some of the other metals. Somebody wrote something
on Orchid about heating the pick and the solder “jumping” onto it so
that’s now what I do and it works a treat.

The pick is great for the majority of soldering applications, but
there are times when I don’t use it. For example, when soldering a
bezel onto a back plate, I place pallions of solder inside the bezel
wall. Also, if soldering a bezel setting I’ve made, to another part
of the jewellery and they stand happily next to each other on my
soldering board, I will place a pallion of solder in between them
and then when the parts reach soldering temperature and the solder
begins to flow, I push the pieces closer together and that works
really well because the solder is in exactly the right place. When
using a pick for such examples, I’ve had the solder “jump” onto the
wrong position on the piece - not because it’s unevenly heated (as
all parts were up to temp) - but for whatever reason. I find the pick
most useful for applications where previously, I had to “balance”
pallions of solder and hope they’d stay where put and flow into the
joint.

As for flux, I’m now very happy with Prips (Pripps?) as long as it’s
applied in a good, consistent coat.

Helen
UK

I use my solder pick quite a bit. It is so handy just to be able to
put the solder exactly where I need it. I agree with Helen. It is
indeed a most useful tool and is very easy to use. Alma Rands

I use my solder pick quite a bit.[snip] It is indeed a most useful
tool and is very easy to use. 

I am amused to think that one of our most useful tools is… a sharp
stick. This is true in pottery as well (that one is wood). Probably a
lot of other activities as well. Back to the dawn of mankind! Noel

A little backwards John, Borax MP 741C / 1365F Boric Acid begins to
disassociate 

Well, Jim, as I was speaking from the bench and not the chemistry
book, I was surprised to hear you say that. So I looked into it, and
of course you are essentially correct (science is funny that way),
except that then the metaboric acid further changes to boron
trioxide.

It’s curious, though, because it SEEMS that what I said is correct
(which is why I said it). A boric acid dip leaves a coating that is
more resistant to heat than plain borax. Also borax poured into a
casting crucible SEEMS to melt faster than boric acid does.

I’m not disputing it - I just wonder if there is something else at
work besides simple melting point. Or maybe it’s just my
imagination…

Just want to mention that I’ve been using a titanium solder pick,
sold to me by Anchor Tool perhaps 20 years ago. With occasional
cleaning and sharpening, I’ve found it to be a wonderful soldering
tool. I use it to place, push and align solder, as well as to hold
work steady, among other soldering tasks. Anchor sadly doesn’t exist
anymore, but I believe that cleverwerx carries a similar pick.

Linda Kaye-Moses
Massachusetts

I was taught to NOT use jewellery fluxes on silver (925 Or 999). I
am in Australia and use Comweld Brazing Flux No2 High temperature.

Are you anealling properly do it in dim light to see the colour deep
cherry.

When soldering start gently heating away from the solder point and
then as the flux does its stuff, bubbles and turns a brownish colour
move to the solder point and the solder flows into the join. This
depends on the size of the object but the aim is to gently warm the
metal and then focus on the join to be soldered.

This may help
Richard