Incorporating opal

I may have missed it, but I don't see in this thread anyone
suggest that if one waters the stone, one should advise the client
to do the same. 

I always advise my clients to keep jewellery containing opals in a
humidor, which is also good idea for pearls. It is not necessary to
keep opal in water as long as it is a gem opal with normal water
content.

A bit of insight may help to clear the issue. Opal is composed of
tiny spheres of silica. The spheres themselves composed of even
smaller particles 10 to 20 nanometer in size. Silica has an affinity
to water (surface bonding of hydroxyl groups). Scientist computed
that due to this structure alone, opal would have from 100 to 200
square meters of internal surface area per gram of material. The
smaller the size of particles the larger the area. It means that
just inside the spheres 1% to 3% of water can reside.

Then there is the surface of the spheres themselves. By the same
principal: the smaller the spheres, the more surface area, and
accordingly the more water would be contained inside the opal, and
the less stable the material would be. The opposite is true as well.
The larger the spheres, the smaller the surface area, the less water
and more stability.

It is interesting to juxtapose this with opal value. In order to
have red color, the spheres must be 400 nm to 450 nm in size. This
the
most highly valued opal. Lesser sizes of the spheres would give
colors like greens and blues, which are valued less. So it appears
that value of the opal goes hand in hand with water content of the
opal. There are other factors of course.

The natural question at this point would be how can one to know if
opal is going to craze or not. Determination of specific gravity can
give an indication, but the best way is to take a small amount of
material, pulverize it, and record the weight. After that heat the
powder to 200 C and weight again. The difference in weight would be
water content driven off. Anything above 8% should be avoided. There
are more specialized techniques, but equipment required is not
commonly available in lapidary shop.

Leonid Surpin

I for one, assumed when I took the “soak your opals” advice, that if
I sold such a piece to a customer then I would definitely advise the
customer to store it in moist cotton when not being worn. That’s
what most of this thread has been about - advising customers of how
to care for their opals.

Helen
UK

I have been cutting opal and setting it for more than thirty years
and to this point have not witnessed an opal spontaneously craze. I
feel compelled to chime in on the notion that you must have been
leading a charmed life if this has not happened. 

I’ve seen his work Noel. He’s charmed in general. It figures that he
would be lucky with opal. Especially considering that he carves the
stuff, not just cabs it. If I tried to carve a spider out of a
material like opal, it would break before I finished it due to the
drying out.

Lindsay

So....why put your opals in water? Once dehydrated, they will not
(except for some very special opal) rehydrate. They will not take
on water, oil, grease, nuthin! But, under some conditions, they
WILL continue to dehydrate (such as a humidity controlled bank
vault). 

I am not recommending putting opals in water, but the above
statement has a rigidity about it which I want to address.

There are situations which require “watering of opal”. If my memory
serves me right, In Budapest ( capital of Hungary ) a very important
collection of opal was saved by “watering” them. Opals began to
craze.
To save them they were kept in water under vacuum for some period of
time. I do not know the technical details of the process, but it
should not be difficult to recreate.

The reason it works is the silica surface of silica spheres has a
particular characteristics which makes water bonding easy (very
imprecise language). As long as temperature, which caused
dehydration,
did not exceed 750 Fahrenheit, the process is reversible. Under
threshold temperature, if it was reached, the surface changes and
cannot any longer bind with water.

That also explains why some opals can survive heating. As long as
critical temperature was not reached, in conditions of high humidity
opal can repair itself. Putting it in water will help the process.

Leonid Surpin

I started this thread inadvertently in a discussion of Peruvian
turquoise by saying that opal is a stone that can crack
spontaneously. The discussion has certainly come a long way since
that simple statement. Although I stated that opal can crack or
craze (same thing) I didn’t say it happened all the time and I don’t
believe it does. I have a lot of opal of many different kinds,
though mostly Australian, that has not cracked over quite few years
and it was dry for many years before that.

However, one thing that’s obvious is that there is so much wildly
conflicting about opal that I don’t believe anyone knows
for sure. I’ve heard some rather wild and wooly stories about opal
for people who are considered major experts. I suspect there are too
many variables to start with and then there are multiple
superstitions and old wives tales and just plain stories that are
passed along from one person to another of through books repeating
some of those stories. I’ve often thought that there was more
misabout opals than just about any other stone and
there’s a heck of a lot about other stones too.

But there are some things that are fairly clear. I keep my rough
opals in water so that, when I’m looking for something in
particular, I can see them more easily. When the surface is rough on
a stone, it’s hard to see what it actually looks like internally.
Obviously, the water temporarily smoothes the surface.Once they’re
cut I keep them dry. I live in Vermont where there’s a fair amount
of humidity so I don’t think they dry out much. I do believe they
tend to be more susceptible to damage from heat than a lot of other
stones. And they don’t like shock much either. That’s why it’s
recommended that they not be put into an ultrasonic cleaner.

I think there are two factors of water in opal. If the stone is
porous and some are more porous than others, then the opal absorbs
water. Those stones will release that absorbed water when kept dry.
But I think there is also water molecularly bound in the stone that
stays in it. So whereas the chemical composition of quartz is Si O2,
the composition of opal is Si02 H20. I’m not a chemist, but I don’t
believe that changes easily. Just like you don’t separate hydrogen
and oxygen in water very easily. Incidentally, to show how
mysterious opal can be scientifically, I don’t believe anyone has
yet figured out what make black opal from say Lightning Ridge,
black. If someone knows, please pass it on.

So it seems like the opals should be dried for quite a while before
cutting to ensure that the absorbed water, if there is some, is
dried out before cutting. If so, the opal ought to be stable.

I think too that when cut, there are internal stresses in the stone
and they may change due to removing materials from the outside.
Changing the levels and planes of the surface will create new and
different surface tensions and stresses, though I’m not entirely
clear about this. However, another example of this sort of change is
with wood. Anyone who’s ever worked with wood knows that cutting it
and changing it’s shape will allow changes in the stresses and it
can crack and check after being worked. That’s just the nature of
it. Yet people still use it for making furniture and houses and
other stuff the last time I looked even though the joints in the
wood can loosen with time and the nails and screws holding it
together can rust.

Besides that kind of phenomenon, there are lots of jewelry materials
as well as other stones that change over time. Pearls can certainly
dry out as can any shell which will probably not do well exposed to
sunlight long term. Many stones have serious cleavage issues like
topaz, or are really too soft for some applications. I’ve heard from
many people that tanzanite is too soft for rings. Zircon, the
natural stone, can abrade very easily. Emerald, is all too easy to
scratch or even break. Diamonds chip. And there are lots of other
issues and problems with gemstones that get used all the time.

At the same time, metals that we use for jewelry also have their own
problems. Silver tarnishes. They can all become brittle after a time
from metal fatigue. And then there’s the fact that many customers
seem to think that jewelry should be indestructible. How many times
do you hear people say, oh I wear my ring all the time, even
gardening. And how much jewelry repair work do people on this list
do because some piece of jewelry miraculously dare I say
“spontaneously” broke?

Yes, opals can be a bit more delicate than other stones or
materials, but the beauty and mystery of the stuff seems to
supersede that. It just seems like we should simply inform our
customers of that and suggest they be aware that the thing they are
wearing needs some care and a bit of caution. If they want to drop
their ring in a glass of water, to store it, I don’t see how that
can hurt. I doubt it makes much difference but what the heck. But my
gracious, the things people do to themselves, to abuse themselves
and everything around them. How many people overeat and over drink
and are headed for a heart condition? How many people abuse much of
what they own, They drive too fast and get into an accidents. Or
don’t pay attention while they’re driving. Surely it’s not
surprising that they abuse their piece of jewelry. What’s amazing is
they seem to want a guarantee on something as inherently delicate as
thing wire and precious stones and feel like it should last forever.
Let’s face it, maybe they believe what DeBeers likes to say, but
nothing is forever.

Pieces of jewelry are beautiful baubles with which people like to
adorn themselves. They are basically frivolous and unnecessary. We
like them as pretty as we can get them and opals certainly fit into
that category of things. We as makers need to be as informative and
careful as we can, but customers need to be aware that things can
happen and that there is a tradeoff between the beauty and the
potential risk. There it is, though. Between having an opal and some
other stone, I’m going for the opal. Isn’t it really a matter of
reasonable expectations?

Derek Levin
www.gemmaker.com
Where you’ll find lots of opals.

Cracking or crazing can be caused by abuses like not using enough
water while cutting so that the opal gets overheated, overheating
when using dopping wax, or by cutting on an out of round silicon
carbide wheel, so the stone is 'slapped' by the wheel, or by
improperly setting it... 

I’m sure there are several ways to set an opal. By “improperly
setting” are you referring to the type of setting - ie unprotected in
a ring - or the physical techniques used? What would you consider
improper when bezel setting? I’ve heard of hammer setting them but
wouldn’t trust my aim/force with manual hammer setting or my
still-limited skills with a hammer handpiece.

I have used opal only infrequently - a few Mexican opals, boulder or
two and maybe a handful of doublets. Though I’ve not had any real
trepidation about setting opals, this discussion affords the chance
to inquire of people who have set more than a few.

I’m preparing to set a really nice (Dowdy) boulder opal in a
commissioned piece. I would feel comfortable snugging that bezel up
to the opal using Tim McCreight’s sawed-off toothbrush followed by
careful cleanup/polish Any other tips or cautions?

Thanks to all.

Pam Chott
www.songofthephoenix.com

Hi Pam,

I'm preparing to set a really nice (Dowdy) boulder opal in a
commissioned piece. I would feel comfortable snugging that bezel up
to the opal using Tim McCreight's sawed-off toothbrush followed by
careful cleanup/polish Any other tips or cautions? 

I set opals the same way – and use the same tools – as for any
other cabochon… with one exception. It is essential to make sure an
opal cab is seated securely. Since many of them are cut with curved
backs (including most opals cut by the Dowdys), that means one of two
procedures: grind or sand the backs till they’re flat (which is what
I do) or use a cushioning material (traditionally sawdust) to fill
voids behind the stone. Otherwise, downward pressure while setting
the stone can/will cause it to crack.

Beth

There are situations which require "watering of opal". If my
memory serves me right, In Budapest ( capital of Hungary ) a very
important collection of opal was saved by "watering" them. Opals
began to craze. To save them they were kept in water under vacuum
for some period of time. I do not know the technical details of the
process, but it should not be difficult to recreate. 

Ah Hah,. Leonid you it it exactly on the head. It is the opals from
Hungary and I believe some also from Yugoslavia that I was referring
to when I mentioned “special opal”! These opals can both dehydrate
and rehydrate! I had one once (the Yugo variety) but no longer do.
Very nice stone that if kept out of water too long, it became milky
but cleared up again when put into water. There is a name for them
but I cannot remember it at this time. Thanks for the input.

Cheers from Don in SOFL

Derek,

Most of your latest post is fine and well thought out but this
statement:

Pieces of jewelry are beautiful baubles with which people like to
adorn themselves. They are basically frivolous and unnecessary. 

I have to disagree with completely. Not all jewelry is frivolous and
it is only unnecessary if YOU believe it is. Most people don’t
believe it is. It doesn’t matter why they don’t believe it is
(advertising, personal superstitions, personly beliefs, etc.) but if
you believe that it is necessary (whether to show your love for
another, or to represent some important event in your life) than it
is. We’ve been through this discussion before somewhat on Orchid,
but it does crop up now and again. If you believe that it is
unnecessary, then most assuredly so will your customers. If you don’t
believe it, then it won’t be. Sure it’s not as important, in some
ways, as food on your table, but apparently man, since virtually the
beginning of time, has found the need to decorate oneself as a
necessary part of living.

Daniel R. Spirer, G.G.
Daniel R. Spirer Jewelers, LLC
1780 Massachusetts Ave.
Cambrige, MA 02140

Cacholong is the milky white, porous opal, without play of color, if
I’m remembering correctly. This article in the archives mentions it
being used as a perfume stone for that reason, and mentions several
locations for it.

Hydrophane is the one that’s transparent or translucent when wet,
and opaque when dry. If you touch a piece of the opaque material to
your tongue, it literally sticks to your tongue from drawing the
moisture in.

Carol

Very nice stone that if kept out of water too long, it became
milky but cleared up again when put into water. There is a name for
them but I cannot remember it at this time. 

Hydrophane opal, I believe.

Beth

Pieces of jewelry are beautiful baubles with which people like to
adorn themselves. They are basically frivolous and unnecessary. 

With that sort of thought in mind what does it say about jewellery
makers?

A hobbiest who just likes shiny baubles and has some extra spare
time might excuse their hobby as being termed ‘frivolous and
unnecessary’. But I have been doing this for longer than I can
remember and really don’t think I’ve spent those decades doing silly
stuff (well maybe one :slight_smile:

If jewellery is frivolous and unnecessary then why are people still
buying a pretty useless metal at $900 / ounce, and spending even
more to add a few fancy rock crystals. If there wasn’t a real need
for jewellery everyone reading this would all be dead or working as
carrot farmers.

Jeff
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing
http://www.gmavt.net/~jdemand

It is the opals from Hungary and I believe some also from
Yugoslavia that I was referring to when I mentioned "special opal"!
These opals can both dehydrate and rehydrate! 

Years and years ago, a guy that I worked next to received 2 oval
opals to bezel set into cufflinks. Why setting them, they chipped
where ever to tool touched them. My buddy showed them to me. They
were unusually chalk like. They would absorb water so quickly that
if you touched your tongue to them, they would stick. Like chalk.
When fully hydrated, they were beautiful. When dry, they were dull
and chalky. I believe that these are the type of opal that can be as
much as 26% water. I also believe that this material is called
hydrophane.

Bruce D. Holmgrain
JA Certified Master Benchjeweler
goldwerx.us

I believe that these are the type of opal that can be as much as
26% water. I also believe that this material is called hydrophane. 

Yup, thanks Bruce. Thats it hydrophane. Getting old I guess. Cheers,
D

Okay, here’s a question for you. What about Australian Opals? They
are dug out of the ground and sand and havent’t been wet in years. I
don’t keep mine wet. What are your thoughts?

Jennifer Friedman

What about Australian Opals? They are dug out of the ground and
sand and havent't been wet in years. I don't keep mine wet. What
are your thoughts? 

It depends entirely on the individual opal. Some are a lot more
stable than others. I’ve got a chunk of Australian material I’ve been
pecking at for years. Stored without water and no problem. OTOH some
stuff starts to craze almost as soon as you get it out of the ground.

Ah, opal. If the stuff wasn’t so gorgeous, no one would bother with
it because it’s such a royal pain in the a**.

RC

The structure of opals is some what like a desiccant ( silica gel
for example). In a marine environment with little humidity swings
the stone would stay hydrated. In a desert environment the stone
would gradually dry out. In Australia while the area is hot and dry
the ground would stay pretty constant so in the ground no change.

I wouldn’t store opals in direct sun in a high solar load area.

No substantiated facts but I think a pretty good start at an
explanation.

jesse

I store mine in a plastic lunch-style container with compartments,
and fill one compartment with water. I don’t close the lid all the
way so that the opals can “breathe” in the moisture. I started doing
this because I had an Australian Opal that had begun to look dry. I
don’t know if I’m doing the right thing, but it works.

Mariel

Jennifer I don’t know to whom this question is directed; but don’t
keep opals wet. Keep them dry. If they need to be kept wet there’s
something wrong.

One exception: there is beautiful opal from Virgin Valley which will
far apart with exposure to air. It is immediately immersed in a
liquid and is sold as a specimen for large amounts of money. In this
case it is standard practice and not meant to deceive.

KPK

Hi all,

Rough opal is kept wet, (eg in glass jars full of water, the way we
see it at the shows) for two reasons. One is harmless and purely
aesthetic, the other a concealment. The harmless one is that the
curved glass container acts like a magnifier and the water mimics a
polish. The stones look bigger and flash more brilliantly and
saleably than they would otherwise do. That’s plain old ordinary
marketing presentation. Your grocery store does the same sort of
thing using one type of specialty bulb to make the meat more
attractive and another for the veggies.

On the concealment side water also certainly does hide cracks and
may prevent crazing of opals which are susceptible to that. Virgin
Velly is the classic example, much of which crazes the moment it
dries. Some Mexican opal does that also. A common (and ethical)
practice with Mexican opal is to keep it in unfavorable conditions
(dry, on a sunlit window sill, sometimes, in desert areas, up on the
roof, etc) for at least six months. What hasn’t crazed by then is
likely to be stable and safe to cut.

Thus rough opal should always be taken out of the jar and examined
dry. Serious dealers expect that. If a dealer doesn’t allow it don’t
touch his stuff.

Cut opals should be stored in conditions similar to what they would
experience in finished jewelry, i.e. somewhere in a desk drawer,
protected from abrasion, nothing more special than that. The one
exception that I’m aware of is that it is said that opals should not
be stored in bank safety deposit boxes because these are kept at a
very low humidty.

Cheers,
Hans Durstling
Moncton, Canada