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ImagOn HD as etching resist for metal


#1

I would appreciate insights from anyone who has perfected this
process. I have made multiple test runs and have yet to get a
successful exposure. Would love to discuss with someone who has used
this particular UV- sensitive film or similar.

Thanks in advance.
Jann Greenland
Greenland Creative, Inc.


#2

Jann Greenland,

The following website discusses the method. You need to copy the
design onto the PnP paper with a laser printer. We have not had good
luck with Brother laser copiers.

http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/d0

The ink marker is not the usual ink marker but a Paint marker
available at art suppliers. You can make your own design with these
markers without the PnP paper.

Marlene


#3

I found ImageOn HD to be a pain. Someone here on Orchid mentioned a
different product, “Toner Transfer Paper” from Pulsar
( http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/dc ).

The company is marketing to printed circuit board hobby electronics
buffs. It is basically paper that is coated with dextrin (a starch)
that is run through the laser printer. The toner transfers to the
paper then you iron on the image to your metal and then place the
metal and paper into water. The starch dissolves allowing the paper
to float free of the toner. This has a big advantage over the acetate
method in that it transfers all of the toner not just some of it. I
have very good results with it.

The two biggest issues I see with theses processes that use the
laser printer toner are that the metal is not clean enough and second
and maybe the biggest issue is the metal may not be perfectly flat or
the iron is not held perfectly flat on the metal. The cleanliness is
easy to solve with products like Barkeepers Friend or Clean King
scouring powder. Both of these use pummice and a mild acid to really
clean the surface of your metal. The second issue is a little harder
to diagnose but if you have really clean metal but you only get
partial adhesion of the toner then it is likely you are not getting
the transfer paper, acetate or, PNP fully flat and in contact with
the metal. The trick I have been using is to buy a piece of 1/16"
thick silicone rubber and placing the rubber between the iron and the
paper or acetate. Silicone rubber will transfer the heat to the
paper/metal stack and greatly reduce issues of not having everything
perfectly flat. Once I started using the rubber my success rate went
up to near 100% for such transfers.

James Binnion
James Binnion Metal Arts


#4

I’ve been using the ImagOn Ultra photoresist for a number of years.
I bought a large quantity last time I bought it, so I haven’t changed
over to ImagOn HD yet. I get FAR superior results than what I was
getting with PNP. I never could get consistent results with PNP. The
only times I have a problem with ImagOn is if I miss a bubble when
applying the film. I just use a squegee and a sponge for applying
it.

What are you using for a light source? I tried a couple of different
bulbs and finally settled on halogen flood lamps. I generally expose
for approximately a minute at about 8-10 inches away. A typical piece
for me would be something like (approximately 1.25 inches across):

http://www.ganoksin.com/ftp/griffin_brooch.jpg

or about an inch across:

http://www.ganoksin.com/ftp/tudor_rose_large.jpg

Jason