I scan a lot of my jewelry with my scanner, does this tend to
scratch the scanner surface? If so, is there a solution other
than having it scanned elsewhere? I scan so many things for
different sources that it would really run into the $ to have it
scanned. Hot these day’s in Oregon… hsqueenc
For everyone concerned with scratching the scanner…why not
take a piece of transparency paper and put that on the scanning
surface. When it gets scratched, replace it.
Elaine
Chicago, Illinois, US
Great Lakes
Just a thought, would clear plastic wrap (saran wrap) covering
the scanner surface help protect the glass??? You could change
the covering if it gets scratched.
Hi all
Several postings have suggested placing various transparent
mediums over the scanner glass to avoid scratching. Good idea
but…any transparent material placed over the scanner
glass means two more surfaces the light must go through on the
way to the scanned object and two more surfaces on the way back
to the imaging mechanism. This will degrade the final image some
depending on the material placed on the glass to avoid
scratching.
Colored cellophane or gelatin color filters (obtainable in
sheets at better photo supply outlets) may give the whole a
different look, may even be attractive, and the somewhat degraded
final image would help hide minor flaws in the work.
A word about flat lighting when using a camera. Too flat a light
does not produce sharp images. Sharp images are the result of the
differences in intensities between the shadows and highlights on
a surface. Example, light coming from one side of the object will
cause shadows to form in the tiny imperfections in the material
surface and result in the appearance of a sharper image (more
contrast). This is usually overdone when only one light source is
used thus a second light source (of lesser intensity) is
employed from the front to give more modeling effects. Of course
you cannot do that with the light source in the scanner, after
all the scanner was designed for very even lighting.
For those experiencing lack of modeling in glass work, a clear
glass goblet for instance, try putting a rose or something like
an earring or pendent on a chain, into the vessel and in the case
of a chain have one end or loop come over one edge with the
remainder in the center. Don’t try for too much depth of field
(that area in sharp focus) by using a high f: number. One light
(the main light source) should be placed on one side so as to
show a highlight on the glass vessel. Aim the zone of sharpest
focus on the most important object in the group. By varying the
zone of maximum sharpness and arranging the different pieces of
jewelry (to the side and slightly behind one another other) a
series of pictures can be had without changing the setup and by
only shifting the zone of sharp focus which you can visually
observe though your SLR camera.
There are many who believe that a 35 mm camera will give you
more depth of field in your picture than a larger format camera
would. NOT so. There is nothing in this world that comes for free
and that includes depth of field. It only appears that way
because the image of an object taken with a 35 mm camera is
smaller. Once enlarged to the same size as the image taken from a
larger format camera the depth of field (zone of sharp focus) is
exactly the same.
While excellent photographs are taken with 35 mm cameras
photographing objects like jewelry is somewhat of a specialty and
is best done with an adjustable camera. If you are paying good
money for photographs of your jewelry be wary of the photographer
who approaches you with 35 mm camera.
I hope this has not been too long.
…Leo Doucet…Fredericton, NB…Canada…