I have a formula somewhere for figuring this out I just can’t lay my
hands on it right now so I’ll go from memory. And use an arbitrary example
of a cap for a crystal that has 6 circumfrential facets that measure
4mmx4.5mmx5mmx4mmx6mmx4.5mm= 28mm total. For a bezel to fit around
- Measure each side as accuratly as possible
2)determine metal thickness. the thinner the better I’ll use 0.3mm
Multiply metal thickness by 2 ( 0.3mmx2=0.6)
Divide that by the number of facets (0.6 divided by 6=0.1)
add that number to the length of each side.
That gives you the total lengtyh of metal you need for a bezel with
no seat to fit outside a crystal or any other stone. The number of sides
on the stone is irrelevant it horks on trillians, quads, emeralds and
uneven numbers of facets.
You now have a piece of 0.3 thick metal 28.6mm long .
Divide this piece into the length of your facets and add
the .01mm to each side. Make thin marks at 4.1mm, from that mark 4.6mm,
from that mark 5.1mm and so on.
Itis best to mark the stone and the bezel somehow so yuo can fit it the
same way every time.
Shelac your piece to the edge of a flat piece of wood.
A paint stirring stick works good. I have a piece I put into my engraving ball
so my measuring sawing and filing can be extremely accurate. it measures
about1/2 inch by 2 inches by 6 inches long. I have the shelac on the edge.
Using a saw cut 1/2 way through the metal at each of the lines. this amount is
the sawcuts to the appropriate angle for the number of
sides that you have. In this case 60 degrees Ex: 4 sides,
360 divided by 4 = 90Degrees 6sides, 360 degrees divided
by 6 = 60 degrees
Remove the metal gently from the shelac .
Fold the bezel into the shape needed . Get it as close as possible
then solder the open seam.
Adjust all angles so they match the stone
solder with small amounts of solder, all the five
This should fit precisly to the stone a with small amount of internal
filing to clean up the solder seams. Let me know if it does not work and
I’ll try to dig up the formula but I think that is it.
On the Sunny East side of the Cascades