How to get the smoothest bezels

Jewelry Discussion
1

Excuse my denseness, you guys, but I would not have a clue how to
cut the bezel after soldering and scribing the line so that it is
smooth and even. Shears? How do you get them level? A saw? Isn’t the
bezel too flimsy?

Thanks so much for all the great info! I am really learning.

J. S. (Sue) Ellington

2 
    Excuse my denseness, you guys, but I would not have a clue how
to cut the bezel after soldering and scribing the line so that it
is smooth and even. Shears? How do you get them level? A saw? Isn't
the bezel too flimsy?

Judy - The way I do it is to just file down the parts that need to be
reduced. Of course, you can use your flex-shaft or a
grinding/buffing machine as well, or a lapidary machine w/ the
appropriate wheel to help you reduce the size mechanically, if you
want to. Only thing is, when you get close to the mark - hand finish
it, 'cause once the material is removed, its GONE and you will not
have anything left to burnish over, even the tiny bit you need to
hold the stone.

Ivy

3

Sue, Really there is no one way to do what you ask re cutting down a
bezel. If it is a straight cut all around and the bezel is thick (I
like thick bezels) I simply hold the piece in my fingers and cut it
down with a saw. You could theoritically do that with an uneven
bezel as well by cutting with the saw at the highest part of the mark
and then filing or grinding with a craytex wheel do get the rest of
the shape you want.

Thin bezels are always a problem but you will have to find the
method that works best for you. Cheers from Don at The Charles Belle
Studio in SOFL where simple elegance IS fine jewelry! For all our
our mothers out there in the U.S…HAPPY MOTHER’S DAY!!
@coralnut1

4

Sue, I use what is usually called a “separating disc” or a “cut off
wheel”. They are available from most tool suppliers. These are
small diameter, very thin discs that are used with a flex shaft. Joel

Joel Schwalb
@Joel_Schwalb
www.schwalbstudio.com

5

I have used only 28 ga bezel wire, assuming thinner was better. Any
other ideas about the preferred gauge of bezel wire?

J. S. (Sue) Ellington

6

Sue,

I don’t know about others, but I use 28 ga rarely. My normal bezels
are done with 22 to 26 ga…with 24 and 26 being my favorites. That
is both fine silver and SS. I like a very good meet between the
bezel and the back plate and believe these heavier bezels produce
that. If I use the thicker ga bezel I will use 22 ga back plate. If
26 or 28 ga bezel I use 20 ga back plate. Some will say this is a
waste of metal but I believe it produces a more rigid setting that
can be also called substantial! By the way, I use the same thing in
gold as well.

Cheers, Don at the Charels Belle Studio in SOFL where we had our
first rain in weeks tonight and where simple elegance IS fine
jewelry! @coralnut1

7 
 My normal bezels are done with 22 to 26 ga...with 24 and 26 being
my favorites. (Don)

There seem to be so many answers to this question. A couple of
months ago, I visited a professor of jewelry making at a university
here in PA. She advised me to use really thick material - up to 16
ga. (! - speaking of substantial). I found it really difficult to
work with this thickness, but I can see her point, although I do not
use it myself (using 20, 22 or 24 ga. now). Best, Will