Dear Dakotahdog, Allcraft has a wide variety of of metalsmithing
hammers and I believe the also have several different cross peen
hammers. They have recently moved to a new location but I believe
that you can get the new 800 number from 1-800-555-1212. Good
luck.
Sincerely,
Deborah Ringhaver Lane
What does "upset the ends of the rivet" mean?
I fact, I was a little on the slow side in understanding what is
really happening with rivets. It is best if one starts with a
rivet that has been cut or trimmed flat. I would like to point
out that it is not so necessary to tap on the blunt end of the
rivet as to tap on the edge of the “blunt end” of the rivet. This
will insure that the edge will peal over and begin to spread the
end of the rivet. Usually, for a functional rivet, I will start
with a rivet no longer than to extend a half millimeter from the
end of the tube. Any hammer can work and even a rotary burnisher
can work well at times.
The hammer is often referred to as a goldsmiths hammer or a
watch maker’s hammer. Small and light weight, one face is
slightly domed and about 18mm in diameter, the cross peening face
is a long narrow shape that is also domed, almost like a section
of rod. The shape stretches the metal in one direction more than
the other, similar in effect to the raising hammers used in
forming hollowware when silversmithing. Personally, in the case
of a hinge rivet, I would probably use a hammer hand piece with
a small flattened tip to peen the ends of the rivet, while
resting the opposite end on a steel block or bench anvil after
flaring the ends of the tube with a small setting bur. A small
chasing punch could also be used, but might require a second
person to position the piece that you are riveting.
Richard D. Hamilton
A goldsmith on Martha’s Vineyard
Fabricated 14k, 18k, 22k, and platinum Jewelry
wax carving, modelmaking, jewelry photography,
CAD/CAM…
http://www.rick-hamilton.com
Cross peen hammers: These are also called Goldsmithing hammers,
riveting hammers or Jeweler’s Hammers. They have a thin cross
peen on one side and a small round forging face on the other.
Rio’s catalog 2000: page 250: #112-147 or page 251: #112-237 or
#112-403 or from Frei & Borel (800-772-3456): page 126: #137-082
or page 128: #137-221, 137-222, #137-223, #137-224, #137-881,
#137-882, #137-883, #137-884 or on page 129: #137-212, #137-240,
#137-242, #137-244 or #137-246. The differences are in the size,
quality and weight. The way it is used to upset a rivet is to
start with a pin that is one pin’s thickness too long, hardened
(drawn) metal, straight, a tight fit on the end knuckles. Place
one end on a flat steel anvil or other surface and then gently
use the cross peen to flare the top end a little in one
direction, flip the work and do the same to the other end, then
flip again and work across the first course on one end, and flip
and repeat on the other end. Continue, tapping gently to avoid
distortion alternating ends and directions until the heads of
the pin fill the countersunk ends of the outer knuckles.
Hope it works for you,
Alan
Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
760 Market Street . Suite 900
San Francisco . California . 94102 . USA
tel: 415 . 391 . 4179
fax: 415 . 391 . 7570
email: alan@revereacademy.com
web site: http://www.revereacademy.com
Shael: I whats being referred to here is a riveting hammer. Its
a pretty small hammer with a flat face and the other end is
flattened with a sort of face like a large screw driver blade,
does that make sense? Riveting hammer…Dave