Back to Ganoksin | FAQ | Contact

Help remove wite-out


#1

Everyone in Orchidland,

Help! I love the trick I learned from you (there were a few people
who mentioned this) about using the water-based wite-out as an
anti-flow for previously soldered joints. The trouble I’m having
with it is that I can’t get the stuff off! I’m using a citrus
pickle. It does a great job for me with fire scale etc., but no
luck in getting this wite-out off. What’s the trick? I was going
to try to sand/polish it off, but there’s too many nooks and
crannys, I hate to even think of that. (I use my tumbler with
stainless steel shot for a final polish.) I’m working in mostly
fine silver and a little sterling too if that matters any. A fast
reply would really be appreciated because I’m working on a project
now where time is pretty limited. Thank you all ever so much. I am
grateful to have Orchid/Ganoksin -and all of you! in my life.

Penny


#2
 but no luck in getting this wite-out off.  What's the trick? 

Hi Penny,

I use the same thing, and have the same experience. I use Sparex
pickle, and it doesn’t actually remove it. I end up putting the piece
in the ultrasonic for a few minutes, then gently scrub with a
toothbrush. I suspect warm running water would work almost as well as
the ultrasonic in this instance.

All the best,

Dave

Dave Sebaste
Sebaste Studio and
Carolina Artisans’ Gallery
Charlotte, NC (USA)
dave@sebaste.com


#3

A tooth brush with a little detergent solution should do the trick.
For the stuff in the fine nooks that can’t be reached by the
bristles, a few minutes in your ultrasonic cleaner should pry it


#4

Hi Penny; I’ll assume you don’t have access to an ultrasonic cleaner.
Why don’t you try soaking the articles with the white-out in a
little mineral spirits (paint thinner) for a while, then see if it’ll
come off with a tooth brush? I know you can remove white-out with
turps or paint thinner before it’s been heated, so perhaps it’ll help
afterwards.

David L. Huffman