That was a great video Shannon, thanks. I wish I knew how to kick
out a video that quick! I also watched your ride to work video,
that’s a cool route (if a little wet that day!). I would size that
sterling ring the same way, tap it up. One difference, and this is
just shop talk, not argument or criticism. I’d use a flat emery stick
on the sides and the back, and just use the rotary inside emery only
on the inside of the shank. My thinking is always, flat on flat,
rotary on inside curves. I feel like to keep the flat side of the
shank perfectly flat I need to emery it with a flat emery stick
(stick with a sheet of emery paper scored to fold around it). Then
lap the sides on the split lap, again with the flat on flat. Sort of
old-school I guess.
In a busy trade shop , there’s a vast array of used worn rings that
come in to be sized. Over 150 rings being sized every day using the
fusion method is a lot. Sizing up takes much more time to do
invisibly. Also, it’s common to run into shanks with multiple sizing
seams, some schlocked together using an easy solder. WG rings often
have rhodium plating masking future problems when using high fusion
temperatures as preferred method. Spring tensions inherent add to the
possibility that things will badly. Extra time/costs to deal with
this interrupt normal routines and are unprofitable, with invisible
repairs difficult. Heat sensitive stones add to the challenge.
I assume Phillip did not size himself over 150 rings every in 8
hours, very day. That would mean a ring sizing every 3.2 minutes.
Explainez-vous, s’il vous plait.
Wouldn’t want any newbies here to get the idea that there are few
dangers traveling down this road, or have an expectation that they
can race as fast as possible unaware of possible catastrophes.
Also, it's common to run into shanks with multiple sizing seams,
some schlocked together using an easy solder. WG rings often have
rhodium plating masking future problems when using high fusion
temperatures as preferred method.
This is why I do not do repairs, the amount of trouble you can get
into is enormous.
I applaud the jewellers who do this work.
So newbies send repairs to a good repairer and save yourself the
grief.
These guys are experts.
I have seen master crafts people loose it big time when they
discover the piece was soft soldered by some schmuck.
Newbies soft solder is not easy solder it is lead solder and on
heating burns through the parent metal.
And the customers often complain about the price. A friend is
getting 20 claws redone and a garnet replaced in an antique "heirloom"
ring. I told her that $600 is a bargain. I have seen the ring and it
is rubbish did not tell them that. Praise be the the repairer of this
one.
Well said Marko. That’s the whole thing, the work you do has to be
undetectable no matter what technique you use. Plus, as you say,
there are usually other complications like loose stones, bad prongs,
previous sloppy work, even on brand new pieces. If you are
conscientious and take care of what needs doing, that really slows
down how many sizings you can blow thru in a day. But what’s more
important, excellent work or maximum productivity? The customer is
who is important and they don’t care how many jobs you do per day,
they only care that you treat their ring like it’s the only job you
have.
Having read the last two comments on repairing other people’s work
and the hazards that come with it, all I can say is that practice
makes perfect.
After some ten years in the business of repairing jewellery I have
faced just about all things that a customer can do to their
jewellery, and what other jewellers have attempted to do to fix those
issues.
Though from my own experience it isn’t just the customer, but also
the boss in my case who had to be happy not only with the finished
product but also with the productivity of the employee/jeweller.
Being now based in Queensland, Australia and finding myself owning my
own business I find many of my clients are looking for someone to
fix/repair a valued piece rather than make new. So I will continue to
do the repairs, and the occasional make because funnily enough that
experience with repair work has made me a much better jeweller in the
long run.
Help help, I have been watching this thread carefully. Hard welding
is something I want to see, in a bad way and I missed the video. Can
anyone point meto it?
I want to thank you guys for writing all this, it’s so fascinating
and instructive. I always wondered about repair scenarios and I
really love reading about it, thank you! Tommy
Thank you all so much for your help and advice. I too will be
visiting this video since what I’ve learned from you all is that it’s
not being done properly and if i can learn the right way I’m sure it
will be a skill well worth knowing!
I use a sandpaper on a mandrel in my flex shaft gives me the same
effect in half the time. less work and I make more money doing the
same job. just my two cents worth…