You can get Kevlar gloves at a restaurant supply (or Amazon
are intended to protect against cuts.
Al Balmer
Do not wear gloves when using a polishing machine! It is dangerous
and can result in severe injury to your fingers and hands if the
glove fingers becomeentwined in the buff and get snatched! There are
leather guards you can buy for polishing that fit on your fingers and
thumbs that will protect the tips but come off easily if need be.
They are better for larger, more substantial work. For smaller work
or more sensitivity, you can get Vet Tape, or similar, which sticks
to itself. You make little finger tips by covering them with several
layers of tape, it is possible to remove and reuse them. Look inthe
polishing supplies section of your tool catalogue for either of these
products.
Melissa Veres, engraver
I do wear cotton gloves for polishing...
but I am wondering if anyone has some suggestions about how to keep my hands from getting injured.
Don’t wear gloves when polishing. If the glove got caught in the
wheel, do you imagine you’d have the chance to carefully pull it
off, or that the 1/2 horsepower motor might relieve you of a couple
of fingers?
Paf Dvorak
I use mechanics gloves they have paddding and help with shock from
hammering to keep you less tired.
Teri
I used to use the finger protectors that accountants use. They come
in different sizes for different sized fingers and worked very well.
Hope this helps.
Mary Young
mbydesign
I have Vet Tape, or similar, which sticks to itself. You make little finger tips by covering them with several layers of tape,
I have tried this but it is just annoying, lose sensitivity when
holding the piece.
I just take care when polishing. You must do enough polishing so the
heat pain sensors turn off.
Like chef’s fingers. Take a break of 2 weeks and they will turn back
on.
What is a good hand creme? I use sorbolene, and body shop hemp
cream.
Jewellers do not have the best looking hands do we, but a badge of
honour.
Richard
Dear All,
Four or five years ago a student was wearing gloves polishing her
assignments.
This was not as instructed. She wanted to keep her hands clean. No
gloves allowed in my shop or class.
When the glove and hand was pulled into the machine, two of her
fingers were bent to the back of her hand.
She bent them back in front of me and then passed out.
Her hands are fine, but she dropped out of class for six months and
had to wear a hand brace for a year. She is a jewelry store manager
now.
I use the rubber finger tips (cots) available at an office supply
store.
They allow a good grip, keep your fingertips clean, come in various
sizes and if they do fly off, come off easily.
I have had the polishing process grip them off my fingertips without
a problem. I wear one on each thumb (sz 14) and on the first two
fingers (sz 13) of each hand. They are sold in sizes from #14 to #
11.
This is not a made up story. I would not polish any other way.
Another little note. I’ve worked with jewelry polishers who did
nothing else all day. If you don’t do something to protect your
fingertips your finger nails will flatten out and have no curve to
them. I can give you several names of friends of mine with that
experience. My nails are slightly like that now after 43 years of
jewelry work. Some polisher used surgical tape on the fingertips.
Carpel tunnel is another problem we may also face.
Just in my experience, not hearsay,
Todd Hawkinson
Recently retired from teaching
I have some of the leather finger covers that I use once in a while
for sawing or buffing if I know something could slip or get hot. They
work well but are bulky. What I started with, which are thinner, are
the old military surplus black leather gloves. I cut the fingers of
of them and just slip them on when you are doing stuff like that. I
call them monkey fingers. You’ll see why. They work well. All you
need typically is thumb and forefinger on one hand. If you get a pair
of gloves you will have plenty. They are cheap and you might want
large.
HI
I have tried just about everything, but always windup taking
whatever protection I am using off.
Like to give jewelry the finger test for sharpness on edges etc.
New merchandise on the market called “Finger Gloves” created by
someone just as frustrated with rubber gloves and fingers.
I ordered these things and like them a lot, but would order the large
size as they are quite tight. They allow for greater dexterity than
anything else I have ever tried. Here is the link. Just go to
Reusable Rubber FINGER GLOVES™ by Carmel and Savona ~ Official Creators ~ Great Packet Choices, Free Shipping offers and More! I like them a lot.
J
I really like the Tory rubber fingertips better than the Swingline
version. The Tory are thicker and hold up longer.
Reba
I’ve always used the office finger cots on thumbs and forefingers
only. VERY easy to take off and put back one when wanting to test for
sharpness.
Janet in Jerusalem
I’m glad to see some people saying “don’t wear gloves when
polishing!” WhenI got my buffer I thought I would use rubber gloves
to keep my hands cleanand protect them from abrasion, they had worked
well when I was polishing with the flex shaft. Fortunately rubber
gloves tear easily. I stood there bare handed staring in shock at the
buffer and from there on out only used the leather finger protectors,
they may be a bit awkward, but they will comeright off and leave your
finger behind.
Ben
Loss of feel with the rubber though but good protection. They also
squeeeeeze. I like the leather fingers cut off thin gloves. Just
slip them on and you have great feel and you have to saw through
leather before your finger. Check st. Vinnies or goodwill.
Nothing but calluses here. Beside the dangers posed as described by
others (which are very real), like Jeanne, I can’t feel or control
what I’m doing while wearing gloves or cots. I hold my work with my
unprotected fingers in almost all cases when I’m not using a block or
tweezers, especially when doing any type of drilling or stone
setting. Sometimes I’ll fold a piece of leather in a “U” shape around
a piece to hold it, but other than that, caution and calluses are my
best protection.
That said, if someone uses or recommends using finger cots, I’d say
hey! Whatever works is good! Shannon’s “monkey fingers” tip is great.
Never thought of using those that way, but the thin black leather
ones designed to be used with knitted liners would be perfect. I also
would have to join in the chorus recommending not using full gloves
while polishing or when using any jewelry sized motorized tool that
could conceivably catch a finger tip.
What the OP was about though, is a different thing. Rob’s using
lapidary tools that can cut fingers very deeply, very quickly and
he’s doing so with neuropathy. That’s a special situation that calls
for special protection.
I’d try “Mechanix” brand gloves, Rob. They offer a ton of different
styles, but I think the style they call “The Original” designed for
automotive use is probably your best bet. They fit rather snuggly so
the risk of catching is reduced, they are tough and provide a lot of
protection against cuts and burns yet are supple and thin enough to
be able to give you a surprising amount of dexterity. They also work
just as well wet as they do dry.
Kevlar Chef’s gloves also sound good, but I have no experience with
them.
I admire what you are doing, Rob. What you are dealing with is no
picnic.
Might as well own it.
Dave Phelps
I don;t wear the mechanics gloves when polishing just for hammering.
No gloves just the leather finger protectors.
Teri thought I better clarify since I probably misunderstood the
question. I have a tendancy to hit thumb when hammering tiny
projects because I shake
When polishing larger jewelry, holloware, and flatware, I use
natural cotton gloves with woven wrists. I don’t advise polishing
with nitrile gloves because they tear too easily. And remember: most
rubber gloves contain sulfur and may accelerate tarnishing.
Jeff Herman
Kevlar Chef’s gloves also sound good, but I have no experience with
them.
One of the problems I’ve had 'teaching myself" is I don’t know what
is wrong until I do it or read about it here.
I too had split thumbs and chronic dirty fingers from polishing. I
tried every finger cot I could find and then went on to gloves. The
disposable gloves only lasted for a few pieces before tearing. I came
upon Kevlar junkyard gloves and they were absolutely fantastic. Kept
my hands fairly clean, did not split my thumbs and was able to hold
on longer if a piece heated up. Kevlar works the same was as a bullet
proof vest. It will not stop an ice pick. That being said, one night
while tired and polishing longer than I should have (I now stop when
I become tired or don’t remember polishing the previous two pieces),
the very end of the screw on tapered shaft worked it’s way in between
the threads of Kevlar and held. Luckily it was only a 1/4hp Baldor
motor but still twisted my wrist and arm. I had a huge tear in my
hand but nothing broken. The motor did not stall out, only jammed. If
it had been the 3/4hp I am sure it would have broken my arm.
The Kevlar did not even tear or snag.
I’m still looking for a good finger cot and find hand moisturizer
before makes it easier to clean after my hands after.
FWIW
Charlie
I guess that I started the discussion about hand protection, so I
will offer an update. My real question had to do with lapidary and
how to keep from cutting the ends of my fingers when they slip into
a 220 grit disc. I usually dop a stone, but will freehand a larger
one. I have purchased a kevlar cut glove from the local restaurant
supply ($24 for one), and it works well. Let’s see how it stands the
test of time. If it does, I will buy another. There are less
expensive models, but they don’t fit as well. I have polished jewelry
for forty years and have usually used a leather glove for tripoli and
cotton for rouge when I polish big pieces. Much of the time I use
nothing as I can’t feel an edge or just hang on to the piece if I use
gloves. I have had the experience of the spindle tearing off the
finger of a cotton glove and wrenching my finger badly in the
process. I have a lot of respect for my Baldor polishing motor and we
all should. I also wear a face shield and usually a dust mask unless
it is a quick in and out job. We all need to see through the beauty
of what we do and recognize the potential for danger in it. It is
real easy to get caught in the moment and ignore something that can
become a real problem. I obsess over my Meco torch and have just
added flash back arresters to it. I did buy a very light T type hose
from TM Technologies that makes it a lot easier to handle. The
material is also more fragile, so you have to be careful not to
damage it. This hose along with Paige tips make the Meco my go to
torch. Thanks again for all the comments and suggestions and I hope
that this discussion has helped others.
Rob
A difficult subject this as I have found that to maintain a good
polishing rate per piece and maintain a grip on small or large items
it is difficult to keep your hands clean, that green slightly sticky
tape wound around the fingers is best for me.
For safety have fitted a foot press switch like a door bell press but
larger. When I have my foot on the button the motor starts and when I
remove my foot it stops. I used to make lots of heavy chain years ago
and my foot press switch saved serious accidents on many occasions.
So the motor switch is permanently ON but I fitted a box with the
press switch mechanism fixed permanently to the floor. The motor
lead is plugged into the press switch box which is connected to the
mains. You dont need to reach for the motor on / off switch.
David Cruickshank (Australia)
jewellerydavidcruickshank.com.au
For safety have fitted a foot press switch like a door bell press but larger.
Dead man’s switch.
http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/ep815b
Paf Dvorak