Nina, I’m new to Orchid and a beginning jeweler. I don’t want to
appear nosey but, what area of the country are you in? Also,
have you tried the gallery approach? I have found that by
placing my pieces in a gallery, I know I am going to take a small
loss on my pieces. However, the people that frequent these
galleries are there to spend money. I have found that by taking
the small loss (30%), I can cover my costs and have some left
over for profit. Just a thought. Ed
Regarding the hand-made issue ... I am with Frank !! It is the uniqueness that is important ... mass made stuff of any kind by any method (including cheap labor) is not in the sprite of the "hand-made" concept . Developing and implementing new methods to make one-of-a-kind art using whatever technology is in the sprite of the hand-made .
Ah, Here’s another issue . . . "One of a Kind? Does that mean a
single design which may have minor differences??? Or is it
pieces that don’t resemble one another in any case???
I understand and totally agree with you . . . many of us are
working for “nothing” (merely covering cost of materials!) But,
let’s not leave out those whom contract with QVC or Home
shopping type networks! I was on vacation recently, watching
Value Vision (which we do not get at home) and seeing very nice,
(claim) Hand-made pieces, selling for $20 and $30 bucks . …
heck, my TIME should be worth that!!! But . . . if one wants to
sell jewelry, even the self designed, totally hand made (not
including the findings- or even including some findings) they
have to keep the prices low . . . the poorly educated, cable
viewing crowd, who “claim to appreciate art” aren’t going to pay
very much at Art shows (which they view as “Flea Markets”) One
cannot start to educate the public . . . those organizing many
of these shows are part of the uneducated public. (Mayor’s wife
organizing the show, doesn’t know what she’s looking at, but
she’s in charge . . .)
This is exactly what is putting me out of business. Did
fine art shows for 16 years - and finally couldn’t compete any
more. There are only so many jewelry dollars available at a
show and, if the judges can’t tell the difference, how can you
expect the customer to know.
Nina,
I, too make handmade jewelry and do shows and custom work for a
living. I had problems much like yours when I did shows that
didn’t jury the jewelry very well, if at all. I have a hard time
competing with hobbiests who crank out $15 rings and $10 earrings
even if they are handmade.
I have started making more complicated handmade pieces using my
handcut stones and much more gold than silver. I am my
photographer’s worst nightmare because I want my slides to be
perfect so I can get into the caliber of shows that only lets
true handmade high quality jewelry into. This is a challange,
since often as many as 200 jewelry artists are competing for one
spot, but if you can make the cut, the rewards are worth it.
People come to shows like the ACC series looking for the best
and prepared to spend money. I can do better selling a few
pieces at a high end show than selling production work all
weekend at a “faire” type show.
It took me a long time , like you, to figure out that I can’t
compete with imports. I don’t even try any more and my life is
alot less stressful because of it.
Good Luck!
Wendy Newman
Nina, I'm new to Orchid and a beginning jeweler. I don't want to appear nosey but, what area of the country are you in? Also, have you tried the gallery approach? I have found that by placing my pieces in a gallery, I know I am going to take a small loss on my pieces. However, the people that frequent these galleries are there to spend money. I have found that by taking the small loss (30%), I can cover my costs and have some left over for profit. Just a thought. Ed
ED, Where, may I ask, did you find galleries that only take 30%.
Most galleries I have found want 50%. Only one wanted
40%. Barry
In the USA, some of the galleries in my area ask for 50% (not so
little a loss) , others require 40% (again, not so little a
loss) . . . but the galleries are a wonderful place to start and
continue if the sales are good!
I have been making jewelry for 7 years but have only recently
begun my own business. So far I have found that galleries are a
good place to show jewelry. It seems that those who appreciate
hand made items are usually artists themselves. One of the
galleries I sell at is a non-profit art organization and only
charges me a certain amount for the space (usually around $50 per
month) plus 15%. So if there are any non-profit organizations in
your area, you might want to try them. Hope this helps 
Hi Ed,
Saw another post that suggested galleries take as much as 50%.
I’m working on a 30% net for my silver - i.e. 30% for
replacement of stock, 30% for show expenses (or cost of sale -
gallery fee), and 30% for me. That doesn’t leave much if I have
to give a gallery 50%.
I’ve been round and round with this “finding a market” thing -
and don’t see a resolution anywhere. It’s getting to the point
where I feel that jewelry design has to become a hobby.
Thanks for your interest.
Nina
Nina - Silver Design, 9122 S. Federal Hwy, Suite 249,
Pt. St. Lucie, FL. 34952 : Toll Free:1-888-460-1800
URL: http://www.nina-sd.com : Email: @Nina
Hi Wendy,
You have a good point. I’ve noticed that I’m using a lot more
gold in my designs - probably just the way my evolution is moving
- but it sure opens up a bunch of previously unexplored
possibilities when you can go with two color work. I could even
visualize trying some of the 10K green and rose golds in
combination with silver. Haven’t seen them anywhere in 14K and I
don’t alloy my own metal.
The idea of working to a different level of customer is one that
I’ve explored a few times. Unfortunately, here in Florida we are
flooded with shows years round which are degenerating rapidly.
If you’re not keen on hobbyists selling at cost of materials,
you should check out the masses of mom and pop operations we have
here in sunny retirement mecca. The better shows are few and far
between; which precludes using shows as a venue to make a
living. I don’t know about conditions where you are, but they
seem to want your money 6 to 8 months in advance for the good
shows and then hang on to it and let you know the jury’s decision
about two weeks before the actual show - which is too late to
book anything else. This means you would have $5,000-$6,000 laid
out at all times - which I can’t do. I can say this, because I
once sat down and worked out how much I would need up front to be
able to work all the really good shows, and never could afford
it. Takes money to make money and all of mine goes for
material, tools, and stones (apart from photography,
transportation, and display).
It would probably work in a place where the show season is
limited and one could spend the off months working on stock and
living from season to season. What happened to me was a Catch 22
situation. I would rejoice when I had a good show and, at the
same time, groan; because I wouldn’t have time to make stock for
the next show. One can never tell, even if you’ve paid and
juried for an exclusive show, whether the customers got out of
the right side of the bed that morning or if someone is going to
blow the whistle and tell them it’s OK to buy. Sometimes it seem
that there’s a kind of osmosis to sales - either no one buys or
they all rush you at once.
Sorry to rattle on - this has been giving me indigestion for a
long time.
Nina
Nina - Silver Design, 9122 S. Federal Hwy, Suite 249,
Pt. St. Lucie, FL. 34952 : Toll Free:1-888-460-1800
URL: http://www.nina-sd.com : Email: @Nina
The better shows are few and far between; which precludes using shows as a venue to make a living. I don't know about conditions where you are, but they seem to want your money 6 to 8 months in advance for the good shows and then hang on to it and let you know the jury's decision about two weeks before the actual show - which is too late to book anything else. This means you would have $5,000-$6,000 laid out at all times - which I can't do.
Nina,
That explains why all in all the spring and fall shows I do up
here (Virginia) half of the artists are from Florida (I’m not
kidding!!!). I usually shy away from shows that take your money
before you’re juried in. Some of them take credit card, which
will only go into effect after you’re juried in. Some take
checks postdated to jury date. I always try to get applications
out as soon as possible. I have a seperate bank account for the
jury fees just for that reason.
Anyways, my jewelry friends from Florida would probably advise
you to stick around in the winter and hit the road in the
spring, summer, and fall. (Most of them are older or don’t have
kids!).
Good Luck!
Wendy Newman
I do not mean to start the discussion about “hand-made” all over
again, but I did not see any posts that described the actual FTC
guide which is the final word in the U.S.A.
This is what the Federal Trade Commission 16 CFR Part 19 and 23
Guide for the Jewelry Industry has printed;
23.3 Misuse of the terms “hand-made,” “hand-polished,” etc.
(a) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by
implication, that any industry product is hand-made or
hand-wrought unless the entire shaoing and forming of such
product from raw materials and its finishing and decoration were
accomplished by hand labor and manually controlled methods which
permit the maker to control and vary the construction, shape,
design, and finish of each part of each individual product. Note:
As used herein, “raw materials” include bulk sheet, strip, wire,
and similiar items that have not been cut, shaped, or formed into
jewelry parts, semi-finished parts, or blanks.
(b) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by
implication, that any industry product is hand-forged,
hand-engraved, hand-finished, or hand-polished, or has been
otherwise hand-processed, unless the operation described was
accomplished by hand labor and manually-controlled methods which
permit the maker to control and vary the type, amount, and
effect of such operation on each part of each individual product.
The above is the complete text as found in the guide.
Yes, a lost wax casting can be called hand made as long as the
artist controls each phase manually, from carving to holding the
torch and pouring the metal for the casting and then finishing by
hand. May I bring your attention to the back cover of the “RIO
GRANDE” Gems And Findings catalogue for 1996-1997. Read the
discription for the “Pate de Verre Beads”, “Each piece is
handmade with art and dichroic glass in a lost wax process,”.
Joe B.
The shows I’ve visited (not been in) in NY, and OH are filled
with people from Florida. I thought it was only because the
more prestigious shows pride themselves in drawing artists from
OTHER states (henseforth Florida.) I often wonder what MY
chances, of getting into a Florida show, would be?
(a) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by implication, that any industry product is hand-made or hand-wrought unless the entire shaoing and forming of such product from raw materials and its finishing and decoration were accomplished by hand labor and manually controlled methods which permit the maker to control and vary the construction, shape, design, and finish of each part of each individual product. Note: As used herein, "raw materials" include bulk sheet, strip, wire, and similiar items that have not been cut, shaped, or formed into jewelry parts, semi-finished parts, or blanks.
Wondering, “unless the entire shaoing and forming” constitutes
pouring liquid sterling into sheet, and then doing the manual
stuff. So, therefore, any sheet silver cut, filed, sanded, and
then having a manufactured finding soldered to it, or having the
piece put on a manufactured chain or finding would not constitute
“hand made?” In that case, the people who sew and claim that
their pieces are Hand made are lieing too! They don’t make the
fabric nor the thread, and those who knitt or crochet, don’t make
their yarns either!!! How about “wood workers” they didn’t make
the tree, so their items aren’t Hand Made? ; )
Actually the concept is that no “industry product” may be
claimed as hand-made, and that the raw materials that are
purchased and used can not be preformed or shaped jewelry parts.
You can use your own findings if you make them and the process is
manually controlled. You are right in saying “So, therefore, any
sheet silver cut, filed, sanded, and then having a manufactured
finding soldered to it, or having the piece put on a manufactured
chain or finding would not constitute “hand made?””. The
keywords here as they pertain to hand-made are; “accomplished by
hand labor and manually controlled methods” I know that your
query was tongue in cheek but it did bring up some good points.
Another is that the Federal Trade Commission does not use the
same definition or guide line for all products.
This section of cfr 16 only pertains to watchbands and jewelry
not to other craft products. Sorry someone else will have to
look that up. :\
Joe B.
IMHO you would probably get into any show you could afford to
pay for - fine art if you’re fabricating, or art & craft if
you’re sneaking a few buy/sell in there or casting a few.
The problem is not getting in - it’s the fact that the shows are
so expensive down here and they hold on to your money 6-8 months
and let you know 2 weeks before the show whether or not you’re
in. Then when you actually get to set up, the quality of
clientele is not that great that you get consistent sales to
justify the expense. Sure, there are some upscale people here
who buy - but not enough to justify the high expense.
And there you have the story of why Florida dealers ALWAYS go
north unless they’re hung up with personal situations that don’t
allow it.
Nina
I know that your query was tongue in cheek but it did bring up some good points. Another is that the Federal Trade Commission does not use the same definition or guide line for all products.
Thank goodness you understood!! So, the comments regarding sewn
items, and knitted items may not be defined in the same manner. .
. too bad!!! They should be!
IMHO you would probably get into any show you could afford to pay for - fine art if you're fabricating, or art & craft if you're sneaking a few buy/sell in there or casting a few.
Nina, the problem is that I have been “turned down” to 80% of
the local shows. Yes, my things are hand made, not all the
finding are hand made . . . I am fabricating. THE ones getting
into the shows locally are those from FLORIDA! Perhaps, I should
send you a list of our local shows, and you should send me a list
of your local shows?!? : )
The problem is not getting in - it's the fact that the shows are so expensive down here and they hold on to your money 6-8 months and let you know 2 weeks before the show whether or not you're in. Then when you actually get to set up, the quality of clientele is not that great that you get consistent sales to justify the expense. Sure, there are some upscale people here who buy - but not enough to justify the high expense.
I agree that all the shows are EXPENSIVE, I try to only enter
those which have booth fees under $200 bucks (yes, they still
require the money to be submitted 6 to 8 months in advance. . .
so I use the credit card “CHECKS” . . . If I don’t get In, I
don’t have to worry about expending any of MY OWN money!!! Ya,
the local shows may let you know 'two weeks in advance" but, some
allow less time than that! It’s awful!!! I have to think that
those running the shows are nimwits and have no idea of what they
are doing . . The nimwits don’t consider the TIME it takes to put
up a booth, and to display goods (so they give you an hour to
“set up!!” ) They are just organizers who are not artists, so
they don’t understand how we feel about the place they put us
during a show . … Sheesh, do I want to be RIGHT NEXT TO THE
OFF-KEY BAND??? NO WAY, but that’s where I have been placed
(to them it’s prestine area!) 'Cause EVERYONE is going to go to
the bandstand! ( I should tell them to ASK ME next time!)
I’ve decided that SHOWS are hell no matter how you look at them,
or how well you do at them . . . I have TWO of them this coming
weekend (two different locations!!!) One east, one west. The
worst that can happen is “I run out of STUFF to sell!!!”
(wouldn’t that be a dream???) Hope for the best!!! a
Hi Fishbre396@aol.com (what’s your name, anyway?),
The problem might be in your photography. Jewelry is a bummer
to get good photos of and I used to spend a fortune with
professionals who had what is called a micro-lense to get
close-ups. They usually want three of product and one of
display. One thing that was nice was that they would understand
if your display photo showed you as an outdoor setup with tent -
that way you could use your display photos for both. In Florida a
lot of fine art shows are outdoors, unfortunately, as you are
exposed to the weather. It only takes one sprinkle with people
still looking (so you can’t pack up) and you’re in for a week’s
cleaning to make your stuff look nice again. This kind of thing
is rough on your more delicate stones. I can remember a couple
of shows where it started to rain and I was stuck with the judges
actually in my tent using me for shelter. Had to just sit there
mumchance. Once, I actually got $100 ribbon when that happened,
so it paid to be cool - not sure if it was worth it, though…
Sorry, I don’t do shows any more - it wore me out. This means
that I don’t have the current Sunshine Artists to offer listings
from. I tried to access their site (to which I am linked) and
was horrified to find that it’s gone. They’re out of Miami if
you wanted to pursue them further. The best show listing catalog
in Florida is called “Where the Shows Are” but they’re not on
line.
A couple of years ago, I started canvassing Florida artists and
fine art crafters to try to put together some kind of union.
Together we would have the clout to get promoters of shows to at
least show us some kind of consideration. The story is that we
are all anarchists! Couldn’t get enough people to agree on
putting it together. They want to moan about conditions but it
doesn’t matter enough to do anything about it. It would have
worked, because I think the promoters have forgotten that without
us they wouldn’t have a show. My concerns were jury fees, late
notification of acceptance or rejection, buy/sell blocking, show
fees that were too high and called for too early, not enough
set-up time for outdoor shows (mall shows give you plenty),
advertising shows where there is no space because everyone is
grandfathered in (or something). There are five very prestigious
shows in Florida which regularly charge jury fees to apply when
they have no spaces available. Apathy reigns…
Nuff sed!
Nina
Nina - Silver Design, 9122 S. Federal Hwy, Suite 249,
Pt. St. Lucie, FL. 34952 : Toll Free:1-888-460-1800
URL: http://www.nina-sd.com : Email: @Nina
Wondering, “unless the entire shaoing and forming” constitutes
pouring liquid sterling into sheet, and then doing the manual
stuff. So, therefore, any sheet silver cut, filed, sanded, and
then having a manufactured finding soldered to it, or having the
piece put on a manufactured chain or finding would not constitute
“hand made?” In that case, the people who sew and claim that
their pieces are Hand made are lieing too! They don’t make the
fabric nor the thread, and those who knitt or crochet, don’t make
their yarns either!!! How about “wood workers” they didn’t make
the tree, so their items aren’t Hand Made? ; )
Amen!!! How unfair!!!Especially, I think jewelers bust their
asses more than any seamtress I know!!!
DeDe
DeDe Sullivan
Producer
Manhattan Transfer Graphics
Tel: 212-907-1204
FAX: 212-370-9346
E Mail: @dede