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Glardon-Vallorbe Swiss Diamond Needle Files


#1

Hello everyone

Does anyone use Glardon-Vallorbe Swiss Diamond Needle Files?
Vallorbe’s steel files are excellent, I wasn’t even aware they made diamond files until recently. Presumably the later are sintered, given how much more expensive they are compared to the plated diamond files.
Just curious as to whether anyone has used them, what they’ve used them for, and what they think of them.

Many thanks,
Helen


#2

I have had a set for around 15 - 20 years now. You refer to sintered but mine are an embedded matrix in the steel, similar to a high quality core drill. I use them for initial cleanup and related tasks on champleve enamel work where they are a superior tool for difficult to reach areas while addressing metal and glass removal simultaneously. It was a while ago now but even then the set of 6 was in the region of $200 - $300 from memory. That said, they are in as good condition as they were on the day of purchase and if you have the need, are a valuable adjunct to the tool kit. I would not bother if I was only addressing metal as the price differential makes them an uneconomic alternative to a conventional Vallorbe steel file in my opinion.

Kind regards
Don Iorns


#3

Helen and Don,
As the latter has said, he needs them to remove metal and glass( enamel!) at the same time so needs justify the cost.
Interestingly, the way these files, disks, core drills cut is different.
Metal files cut one way ie like a saw blade having teeth pointing in one direction(OK! there are wood saws which cut in both directions! I know that!) whereas
diamond, Tcarbide and other grits cut in any direction. being random particles bonded or sintered or encosed in a matrix.
You can get these needle files in sintered Tcarbide which is more than adequate for most jewellers needs.
Don’s applcation to remove both metal and glass is similar to the grind stone and water way used by enamellers since time immemorial.
Theres another cutting way tho, for enamels and metal at the same time.
I use 320 grit abrasive belts for just this ,cutting dry,(with vacumn!) as my enamels on copper are fired much higher than normal and the copper and enamel reacts on the edge of pieces to form a very hard oxide/enamel crust. When your making 30 items a week hand finishing is way too slow what with all the other work involved.
Then i refire at a lower temp to gloss the ground enamel edge at the 45 deg grind. angle.
Recently, I came across abrasive belts coated with diamond. 3M make them. . There likewise seriously expensive, used for finishing hardened material(hard facing!) like plastic extrusion feed screws.
My machines for belts, ive several, all run vertically, and have a free area as well as a supported back plate. mostly 1in wide by 48in long.
Problem is they get used for just about every other metal removing task !!..Even sharpen HSS drills,
sharpening wire brushing wheels, derusting tools deburring blanked metal prior to using 3M consolidated scotch brite wheels. thers only one type that cuts titanium without balling up thats T carbide 1000 mesh wheels. there 6in dia and 1 in wide and last for ever. bought mine some 30 yrs ago and 90% of the wheel is left.
Hope this background info is useful for someone.
Technical Ted,
Dorset
UK.


#4

Many thanks to the Brains Trust :slight_smile: This forum is such a wonderful source of information. Ted I’m intrigued that you use the abrasive belts dry with vacuum, rather than wet. Does this shorten the belt life?
Many thanks,
Helen